Torque values for differentials and transfer case fill/drain bolts?

I have the “torque map” available on this forum. I see the owner’s Manual doesn’t specify and torque values on these 3 items. I assume these values come from a 4 Runner repair manual? Looks like the transfer case is some alloy (aluminum, magnesium) and have lower values. The front and rear diffs look to be steel. I would imagine the fill bolts are less likely to leak than drain bolts. Anyone had any problems using these values? The bolt size for front diff (10mm)
is listed much smaller than the other 2 (rear diff and transfer case) at 24 mm.

 

The front diff plugs are easy to strip out especially the drain plug. I use heat to help loosen it. I've stripped one before when I had my FJ. I'm also going to put in the Lexus equivalents which have a 14MM head instead of the 10 mm hex. I always torque to what is specified. Never had a leak.

 

The front diff drain bolt torque seems high? 48 ft-lbs for a 10mm hex bolt? I have not put a wrench on these yet but will soon at first oil change. I will only be loosening the fill bolts however. Without independent verification I will just snug them up using judgement and my hands on wrench. I don’t think leakage is likely on under torqued fill bolt. I’m just asking has anyone independently checked these values? I don’t have a repair manual. I may drop by the parts dept at dealer and inquire on these values. I assume they can look them up in a Toyota repair manual. If I get independent verification I’ll report back here. I don’t think 27-29 ft-lbs is gonna hurt anything.

 

A website called Trail4runner.com has the same values as shown below. I have NOT verified them against a Toyota reference however.

 

Make sure the hex hole is clean and you'll need a breaker pipe to put on your 10mm hex wrench. Definitely recommend some heat applied beforehand. Undo the fill 1st. I'll be doing mine next week as part of ECGS bushing install.

 

It does appear that the values posted in the Torque Map did indeed come from the 2016-2019 4Runner Repair Manual.

All told, there's about 189 pages of service data / torque specifications for this 4Runner, so I may be mis-identifying something not knowing the full nomenclature used, though it seems intuitive enough.

Page 276 (1GR-FE Lubrication) shows:
Drain plug x No. 2 Oil pan: 30 lb-ft
Oil Filter x Oil Filter bracket: 18 lb-ft
Oil Filter Drain Plug x Oil Filter: 10 lb-ft

Page 284 (A750E and A750F Auto Transmissions/Transaxles) show:
Drain plug x Oil Pan: 15 lb-ft
Overflow plug x Oil Pam: 15 lb-ft
Refill Plug x Transmission case: 27 lb-ft

Pages 304-305 (Axle and Differential) shows:
Front Drain Plug: 48 lb-ft
Front Fill Plug: 29 lb-ft
Rear Drain Plug: 36 lb-ft
Rear Fill Plug: 36 lb-ft

Page 377-386 (VF2A, VF2BM, and VF4BM Transfer / 4WD / AWD) (all the same) shows:
Transfer Oil
Drain Plug x Transfer Assembly: 27 lb-ft
Fill Plug x Transfer Assembly: 27 lb-ft

Transfer Assembly
Transfer Case Plug x Front Transfer Case: 14 lb-ft

 

I just did the ECGS bushing install this last weekend as well as a Dobinson's CV re-boot all around. Doing brakes and rotors as well, and unfortunately ran into some frozen pistons so going to have to rebuild/replace those as well. Stuck good, every trick I tried I couldn't get the caliper pistons to pop. Found a place though that had new calipers (OEM) cheaper than most re-mans out there (for the front) and they had OEM remans for the rear.

When I was cracking the front diff fill and drain plugs, they were tight. I think this was due more to the galvanic corrosion between metals on the threads rather then being torqued too tight. This vehicle is new to us. Whenever a bolt comes out, it goes back in with a LIGHT coating of Evinrude Triple Guard Grease. I've done away with anti-seize years ago. That stuff is worthless unless it's the copper or the extremely expensive nickel version. So, a light coat went on the the threads of the drain plug. I opt to also do a light coat on the copper crush washer as well. If you apply grease of any kind to the thread, it's good to recalculate the torque because all the torques in the FSM are for dry bolts which changes the friction factor. A good engineering rule of thumb without getting into the equations is 20% less. Another trick I learned when seating copper crush washers (more so for diesel injectors) was to torque to spec, then give a good whack to the head of the nut or whatever with a brass hammer to "seat/imprint" the copper washer. then re-torque to spec. Never had anything leak after that. It's likely overkill, but just the process I go through now. For the drain plug I just rounded to 40 ish ft-lbf and called it.

That being said, I have a question to the above flow chart.. the 2016 FSM for the front brake torque (14mm hardware), I see 137 ft-lb. The rear brake mounting bracket I see 74 ft-lbf and the pins are 65 ft-lb...am I missing something? Also the guide pins on the front are just pins held in place by a spring (they have a button head)...no torque.

 

What is this?

Transfer Assembly
Transfer Case Plug xFront Transfer Case: 14 lb-ft

 

Wheel lug nut torque is 76 ft-lb on alloy/aluminum wheels (most common) and 83 ft-lb on steel wheels.

 

I plan on doing the front and rear differential tomorrow.

anyone knows the torque values for the skid plate that needs to be removed to access the front differential?
There are four 12mm bolts. I’m assuming 21 ft lbs? (same as the little panel to access the engine oil drain plug).