Upgrading the factory JBL audio system in my 2022 TRD Pro

Hello all,

I'm just venting here in hope that someone out there is struggling with the same problems. I am happy to help anyone doing similar mods.

I am currently in the process of upgrading the factory JBL system in my 2022 TRD Pro. I started by installing JL C2-350X 3.5in Coaxials to replace the dash tweeters. I mounted them using a simple 3D-printed bracket that I designed and was able to fit the grills without trimming. Also, I was not able to find a plug and play harness so I cut and soldered the wires directly. I initially installed a 133 uf bass blocker in line with them, but the sound output was greatly reduced over factory. I removed them and this improved the output and there was no problem with distortion since I learned that the JBL amp handles the crossover.

However, even after removing the bass blockers, I am still unsatisfied with the output since the JL C2-350Xs are 4 ohm with a sensitivity of only 83 dB as opposed to the 2 ohm JBL tweeters (unknown sensitivity). The sound quality and clarity are much 'brighter' and crisp than the factory JBLs, but I wish the output was the same. Also, at max volume when taking phone calls and driving it is nowhere near loud enough. I am going to live with this for now.

Has anyone been able to find a 2oh 3.5in coaxial or even a simple tweeter that resulted in better clarity with the JBL system? Also, has anyone had luck finding wiring harnesses that are compatible with the JBL system? I can't find them ANYWHERE. I am planning on replacing the driver door 6x9 woofers next and would prefer to not cut the factory harness again (as I am regretting that after my dash "upgrade"). The last step will be replacing the factory JBL sub with a JL 8W3 and a mono amp, and sound deadening as I go along.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Grant

 

For over all out put, using a 4ohm vs 2ohm load, would cut your power/output basically in half. I dont care for the oem stuff, "JBL' fancy or lower end. The oem amplifier, regardless of what tier, is trash imho. But fine for the masses. (the oem amp will actually "cut" voltage, when turned up, to protect the turd drivers they use, as well as pass band to early and to late, all because they want to protect the drivers)

I ditched all the oem stuff and use my own HU, DSP, amplifiers, and drivers, (amp for door mids (satori 7") and amp for dash tweets (hertz 3.5 coax) so i have all the power i need regardless of load presented. Along with several several sheets of second skin damplifer on the front doors, and back hatch. Im a huge believer in any type of dampener. Still need to get the roof done at some point. I really doubt even if you find a 2ohm driver, using the oem amp, will make much if any difference, but there are tons out there that will fit in that huge dash space. Wish you luck in whatever direction ya go mate. I love audio/music. And just have to have a "decent" audio system in my rigs. Always have, and always will.
EDIT-
https://www.4runners.com/threads/audio-build-2018-runner.7716/

 

In the spirit of ditching oem stuff...which you have to do in order to get any decent sound....I wouldn't worry about the factory wiring at all. Cut that shit. Taco Tunes has good speaker brackets. We're you going to use any?

 

I appreciate your response. That's what I was fearing. I wish there were a way to at least keep the factory HU and just replace the JBL amp and speakers. Something about switching to an aftermarket head unit that doesn't sit right with me. In my ideal world I would have the factory HU with an aftermarket multi-channel AMP for the dash, doors, and hatch speakers and an upgraded 8in sub in the factory location hooked up to a mono amp. I know this probably isn't possible without ripping the head unit out, but I could be wrong.

 

Fair enough and I could always solder everything back to factory without too much pain if I had to. And yes I am planning on using taco tunes or similar brackets for the 6x9s and the 6in coaxials in the rear. I will also be documenting everything I decide to do with photos in this thread.

 

I just saw this in another thread and was wondering if anyone has any experience using it. From what I gathered it's an amp that plugs into the factory head unit and results in higher output with a JBL sound system. I don't know how it is able to seamlessly work with the factory JBL amp. I have never seen anything like this so I'm a little skeptical to trust the results they claim. If it's legit then for $300 it might be worth giving it a try before I go ahead and replace the whole sound system. Would love to hear yalls thoughts on this.

https://www.beatsonicusa.com/produc...ect-2018-toyota-models?variant=44580022911127

 

There's those heat shrink solder joints work really well. After reading on reddit about connectors I've just been doing crimps with heat shrink.

I would crimp on connectors so you can unplug the speaker.

The screws that come with the Taco Tunes brackets are garbage. Be ready to go to the hardware store for new screws.

 

No sir. I get it. I totally understand. After fighting with newer vehicles have half the vehicle controls run through the deck/hu, and other newer oem issues, it can be a absolute bear, to just try and upgrade, or change anything regarding the audio these days. The 5th gen, isnt all that bad thought. But, I get it my friend. You could add a couple of line output converters, and then add boards (amplifers) and swap drivers. Some amps have that ability, audio control comes to mind. That said, if you go the LOC route, i HIGHLY suggest getting a top tier unit. The Damore unit is my favorite, along with audio control. Most cheaper ones will distort the second a input is even applied. You could huck in a cheap but effective DSP, so you could boost/cut, Xover any channel to your liking, and "fixing" the oem curve. That route also brings its own pain in the taint issues. Its all up to you, and how deep the rabbit hole (like doing any mod or change) ya wanna go, along with cost and time.


I wish you luck with whatever you choose. Cheers, and good luck.

EDIT- (Again, i highly recommend using some sort of dampner on a panel your going to take off anyway, to get to what your doing)

 

BUILD UPDATE: (Photos Below)

• Installed JL Audio 3.5in C2 350X coaxials in the dash.
• Completed sound deadening of both front doors and door panels using Siless 80mil from Amazon. Took around 20sqft to get the front doors done, but I probably could've used less. This completely removed the rattle from the door panels when playing certain low-frequency bass that made certain songs unbearable before this upgrade.
• Installed aftermarket 4 Ohm 50 Watt 6x9s that I got for free to replace factory JBL speakers. Used these brackets:
  $18 RED WOLF 6" x 9" Front Door Speaker Bracket Adapter for 2004 Up Toyota 4Runner Avalon Highlander Tacoma Prius Sequoia Tundra Install 6 x 9” Aftermarket Audio Speaker Spacer Ring Holder 2 PCS
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQ7R9QJY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
• These have been producing tighter bass than the paper woofer JBLs and do not appear to be quieter than the factory JBLs even though they are 4ohm instead of 2ohm. I cut the factory harness and wired the positive to the green wire and the negative to the blue wire.
• The next step is probably the 6.5in rear door and hatch coaxials since they are noticeably louder and screechier than the 4ohm dash speakers I installed. I would be open to selling the JL 3.5 dash speakers to anyone without a JBL system so that I could find a 2ohm dash speaker replacement that's as loud as the rest of my system. Message me if interested.

I'm happy to expand or answer any questions anyone has as I continue to upgrade!

• 

 

You got rid of the vapor barrier completely and replaced it with sound deadening sheet?

 

My JBL sounds amazing with wired connections and using Tidal for music. That’s the closest to a CD quality music because everything else is super compressed therefore shitty sound quality.

 

Yes and kind of... I had to remove the vapor barrier in order to get access to the areas I wanted to add sound deadening sheets. I lined the entire outer exterior panel and both sides of the 'interior' sheet metal of the door in sound deadening material. I wouldn't say that the sound deadening acts as a replacement since the door panel is still more exposed to the elements.

I am planning on eventually replacing the vapor barrier with a plastic sheet from home depot and resealing it with a butyl rubber sealant. I am going to monitor how much water if any gets in the next time I drive in the rain and make my decision from there.

 

I actually just removed the speaker and used that cavity to stick 3 whole sheets on the inside of the outer door. In hindsight, it did give me a lot of nasty cuts.
I did pull down the vapor barrier from the top and let it hand to reach some hard to reach places.
I was told to not remove the vapor barrier entirely and wanted to have access to the window regulator, lock, glass etc in case they stopped working.
Honestly it did not do much for any sound deadening but it did reduce vibrations and removed that tin can feel of the door when closing.