Underbody protection etc.

Hi All,
I'm looking into having my Solar Octane protected underneath for the long winter ahead. Two places here I've found to do it, one uses Rust Check, the other Boss Wax and NHOE. I've heard (through a local garage) that the one who uses Boss wax, applies it quite heavily and when they work on that car, it's very messy underneath, is this the norm for that application? Is Rust check a good product otherwise? Also, does PPF really help for rock chips? I was also planning on ceramic coat afterwards. Any input on all of this or advice is much appreciated. I won't do it myself, not qualified at this point or have the time. I wouldn't even consider the ppf if the paint were better! TIA!

 

I applied WaxOyl Hardwax Plus to my frame, sprayed it on myself which wasn't too difficult. I bought a 3 can pack off Amazon but ended up only using one can, sprayed their cavity wax into the inside of the frame through the tons of small openings. If you have a set of ramps and can raise up the front end its a pretty straight forward job to do yourself.

 

I have NHOU Boss Wax, full front PPF, and ceramic on my ’23 and ’24 Pros. I’m happy with it all. I don’t think they applied it too heavy, it looks very good under there. It’s too soon to tell how well it all holds up, but the peace of mind is nice. A tree fell on a previous vehicle with PPF, smashed the hood in, but there were no scratches. I wouldn’t test that, though. No rock chips on either so far.
The catch with NHOU Boss Wax is they only want to do it on brand new vehicles. You’ll have to talk to them to see if they’ll do it depending how much you’ve driven. I went to the main facility in New Hampshire, figured they would know what they were doing better than franchises, but who knows.
Never heard of Rust Check so I can’t comment on that.

 

Thank you for responding, on the fence with PPF as I've read and heard it all depends who is doing the job as to how well it works. Have also heard that dirt can get trapped around the edges and mold spots underneath. I've only got access to one business that does it locally and not sure how well they apply it. Ceramic coat for sure.

 

I strongly recommend Krown Rustproofing. It's a yearly re-application, and works very well. Search some other threads for more comments and pictures of 4 or 5 year old 4Runners without a bit of rust.

Mike

 

If you have the ability to go under your truck, or have a friend do it, once under the truck it’s really straight forward. Have the truck washed first so the under carriage is cleani’sh and dry, then you use the spray can and lightly spray the frame. It took me maybe 30 minutes tops. Put it up on ramps and remove any skid plates and spray away. Any coating you apply is better than none.

 

Bosswax in NH. 3rd truck I’ve done. Will do it again…. Also did full front PPF and ceramic. Do it if the money makes sense to you. I enjoy these “upgrades”.

 

I’ve heard good things about nh oil

 

Thank you!

 

What do all you do for pre-treating some very light surface rust spots prior to using the wax/undercoating spray?

 

Same Waxoyl hardwax plus I used, it kills existing rust.

 

Opinions on rubberized undercoat Ming? And opinions on fluid film?

 

You don't ever want rubberized coating. Moisture is trapped underneath and you can't see rust forming. Wax/oil type only.

 

If it’s a spot that has had the finish eroded away, like the back end of trailing links, rear lower shock mount area, I will just spray/brush on woolwax over it. Not worth painting if it the paint will be eroded away in short order. Really, those trailing arm and shock bolt is the only spot I see erosion happening, but that’s probably only because of being lifted and gravel roads.

But sometimes I’ll see a bit of paint coming off near a weld with some light rust starting. Those I tend to clean up and paint. Then woolwax over it.

 

Thank you for bringing this up because I wasn’t happy about the yearly fluid film application. WaxOyl Hardwax Plus seems like a better solution. I’ll try it in the next month.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=twDp8AowkLI

 

Here is the areas in question-

Mainly at the rear. Rest of the frame looks good.

 

Id hit it with a wire toothbrush and brush paint over the weld joints. But that’s because I enjoy that type of putzy work. Honestly, just giving it a good coat of woolwax is probably fine.

 

I treated my frame with the Waxoyl Hardwax plus, so far I'm really liking it. Once it dried its ever so slightly tacky to the touch (even after a few weeks), but so far with all of the rain we've had in NC the past few weeks it still looks great. They claim it should hold up for a couple years so I'm hopeful. I bought a 3 can pack online but ended up only needing 1 to treat my whole frame. Will be touching it up annually regardless, plus I didn't lower my spare before applying, so need to hit that area anyway.

 

How did you get it inside the frame rails?

 

I used their cavity wax for that by spraying inside the tons of holes in the frame, forgot to mention that. That wax is more fluid film like as opposed to the hard wax but they claim that one is a one and done, so we'll see.

 

Did you do inside the frame and holes after the hard wax?

 

Yes, but you can do that either way. Its a 6" nozzle tip that comes with the can and you just insert that into the holes, spray and then move it around to coat as much as possible. It doesn't interfere with the hard wax on the outside of the frame. It really is quite easy, I was over thinking it at first until I put my truck up on ramps and rolled under with the creeper. Just remember to wear eye protection (good safety measure for most things) and an N95 or similar as it does have a bit of a smell while applying.

 

Thanks.

 

+1 for NHOU if you can get it done near you.

 

Does the WoolWax come out black?

 

Woolwax is available in black or natural. The natural is sort of a translucent light brown. The black is black.