Infamous clutch bracket

To those who have not yet had the luxury. I would suggest you go ahead and consider sourcing a replacement clutch pedal bracket. Apparently this is the Achilles heel of this vehicle. Also common on the T100 and Hilux I believe. They are still available new but not cheap part number (55106-35050).

Was driving home from work Labor Day weekend. Car was acting a bit weird before I left figured the starter had died. Had to bump start it and drop the clutch. Was shifting but not easily. Got 90% of the way home then the shifter wouldn't disengage. Ironically I pulled into a body shop a friend owns and called for road side to deliver it to my house. In the meantime the owner came out and talked to me grabbed one of his mechanics described the issue he goes "it's the clutch pedal bracket, I'll bet $100 on it." Glad I didn't take the bet cause he was right. Got it to the house pulled the old one and it certainly is cracked. Tried repairing it couldn't get it to sit right. I'll mess more with it when I have time. Ordered a new one and after USPS losing my package and finding it two weeks later. My 4runner is back and operational. Oh and my blower motor switch went out as well same day. So got that ordered and installed and everything is good. I figure since I had to tear half the dash apart to get to the switch I might as well do most/all of the things I have put off to this point.

-LED's in dash cluster, climate control, glove box (6-194 bulbs in dash cluster/ 11- 74 bulbs for the other lights I will post a diagram later showing which lights are which) glove box and climate control are also 74 buy them off Amazon cheap enough. The 194's try to find those close as possible to the original bulbs anything to long will not fit in the housing. Amazon

-LED's in A/C and defroster switches (AC is a T3 Neo wedge 8mm base/defroster has x2 T4.7 Neo wedges with 12mm base) Again Amazon

-Clean trim pieces and air ducts/vents, blower motor housing (detail brushes and car soap in the bathtub)

-Replace blower motor resistor original looked good tested fine but pulled it anyways I'll save it for later (O'reilly's special order)

-Lubricated speedometer cable since you have to disconnect it anyways, use motorcycle chain lube and a syringe if possible to get in down to the cable housing.

- Polished most scratches out of the dash cluster plastic/touched up the orange on the needles and got all the dead bugs out of the housing.

-Removed dead radio

-Removed dead 4" front speakers/ pending replacements

Overall none of this is very difficult you just have to go slow to not break parts and keep track of the screws. For me it just happened at a very inconvenient time since I daily drive 100 miles roundtrip for work and USPS taking two weeks to get me my part. End of fiscal year is stupid busy in my line of work. Overall mechanically and interior wise the car is fine even after sitting for 3 years prior to me acquiring it. Paints kinda faded and has a few dents but its clean of rust and I wanted the red interior. Did ball joints, shocks, springs, timing belt, water pump, clutch and fluids change on F&R diff, transfer case and transmission. I'm running Amsoil but remember to put GL-4, NOT GL-5 in the transmission! The higher levels of the sulfur can cause corrosion on the synchros and cause problems later. Fixed the rear window relay so everything works. I have a long list of maintenance to finish as I get around to it. If anyone needs help or information please let me know. Chances are I've already done it.

 

I had this happen in one of my 89-95 Pickups, and caught it before it broke in another of my Pickups.