Outfitting for Life on Gravel

We've got the same Midnight Black Metallic Limited you've seen hundreds of times.

It was the only trim we were looking at since full-time 4WD fits the climate here and will be much safer for my wife and kids to drive without having to think about the transfer case.

We live on a forest road, so I am planning minimal adjustments so the car is better suited to the terrain. Be it known, I am well aware this car will do perfectly fine unmodified, people drive stock Subarus and Volvos and 1988 Buick LeSabres on roads like this with varying levels of success. We were completely fine driving our 2011 Volvo XC90 on this road.

The idea with the 4Runner purchase was to have something that felt similar to the Volvo, but on a truck platform. So if I can make a few small adjustments to further improve its adaptability to our lifestyle, it's worth looking into.

Here are some things that I am considering:

1. Tires: When budget allows, I will switch to 17" wheels and Wildpeaks or K03's. We ran Nokian 235/60R18's on the Volvo and it was unstoppable, so I know the 20's can work fine, but this would give us a lot more tire options and some sidewall security. Load Range E would be overkill, so I would like to hear suggestions for SL vs. C for life on a forest road.
2. Frame protection: I have looked at Woolwax. For anyone in a northern climate, what has worked for you?
3. Lift: I have no desire to remove X-REAS... I paid for it and it works great on-road; I will use it for as long as I can. What lift options are compatible which will not compromise X-REAS?

I want to get the car up off of the ground. For the Limited owners: I hear a lot of rock strikes when driving on gravel, do you think that is just on the running boards, or should I look at additional skid plates to protect the undercarriage and frame? I know a small lift will help, because I hardly ever hear rock strikes when driving our Suburban 2500 or F350.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated, especially from Limited owners living on gravel! Thank you for your time!

 

You are hearing the rock strikes because of the running boards/ bodywork. They are mounted to the body, so the sound transfers directly in. We have the same issue with the steps on our 4Runner (Toyota long individual step).

I don't think you'd hear the rocks hitting the frame or undercarriage too much with the windows closed, unless you got a particularly loud one ringing the skid plate.

No comment on the lift, no experience with Xreas.

 

Good to know! So they are sort of "sacrificial", I am okay with that. If they get damaged, I would just switch out the rocker panels and mount something more off-road style.

 

If you go with larger (wider) tires you will have rock strikes in the rear wheel opening moldings. It's best to keep the tires narrow, 255 or 265mm. The lift won't help with the rocks.

I don't see your location, is it in your profile? What do you mean by northern state, pacific northwet?

 

That means you need to slow down.

I had XC90 but not the 2011 version. My 2022 was a POS but could not compare to the 4Runner in ride quality or features. I don’t think you need lift as the Runner has more ground clearance than the XC90. The 18” Nokians are really awesome and I used them on my SPA Volvo. Frame protection is important but you can use fluid film just remove the skid plate and the spare tire. Once a year should be fine and rinse the undercarriage as soon as the temperature is above 32.

 

Wool wax, fluid film or surface shield will be great. Depending on location, I have read that Crown is good.

 

I would use the same size as stock 17” 4Runners, 265/70R17.

We are in northern Minnesota.

 

I think SL will be enough for forest roads, C load tires is better for additional sidewall protection when you drive over sharp rocks. As per gravel - I didn't have any additional protection and never had any issues with rock strikes, I mean I heard a lot of strikes but never seen any damage from them.

 

I have been using woolwax in Northern NY with good results, however it will attract a good layer of dust/dirt. My 4runner has about 1/4-1/2 inch layer of dirt which is what you want for additional protection but every time your under the truck for maintenance you'll get dirt in the eyes, eye protection helps.

 

We live in Central Wisconsin, gravel road, closest highway 1/2 mile. We have used Wool Wax and Fluid Film with good results, no rust on underside of our 2020. As far as the gravel hitting the underside/body of the vehicle, we have very few dings in the paint. Every once in a while I hear a gravelstone that decides to stray from the mud flaps, but how fast do you think you would want to go on gravel? We go 35 mph on gravel (the speed limit on gravel roads is 45 in Wisconsin, at least where we live), if you come up behind me and want to go around.. go around. We have 275-70 17 Cooper AT3 4S tires. 1 flat tire that was stone related several years ago on C rated tires. That's all I got for ya, good luck.

 

Yep, regarding load range if existing SL has been working for you I don’t see a reason yet to upsize.

 

Very good info, thanks! Our driveway alone is >1/4 mi, then we have 7mi of gravel to the highway, 5mi just to the mailbox. So yes we do need to go a little faster than 35 from time to time (but not much).

If I run out of time there is a place in Duluth that does wool wax for $500... I would remove the spare first.

FWIW, we have lived on this road for 7 years and I don't notice any more tiny chips from rocks than when we used to commute on freeways. We have had a more than average number of flat tires, so I may go with C's. I would prefer Wildpeaks (I run them on my truck, 38" E's), but they appear to be only SL or E. The load index on the SL Wildpeaks is 115.

 

Honestly, if your Volvo was sufficient for this task, your 4Runner will be more than sufficient as it sits stock.

The only modification I make would be to replace the garbage OE tires, since all 4Runners come with terrible tires. If you do replace the tires, I would go with a snow rated mild AT. Don't worry about load range, SL or P rated is perfectly fine for your intended application. If you didn't have problem with the Volvo tires, you won't have issues with the tires on the 4Runner. Bridgestone is actually releasing a new all-terrain, the Ascent, which looks like it might be a good choice for snow performance. And if you're looking at going with 17-in wheels, check out the 255/75/17 size. They're a little taller, little narrower than the 265-70s. The narrower tread will be better for snow performance, will be less likely to throw gravel outside the fenders, and this size tends to be a little lighter as well.

If you didn't have the Limited with the full time, I would say your Volvo was probably better suited to this task than the 4Runner. I would say that unless the snow is 10 in deep or more, my '07 XC70 is better in the snow than my 4Runner.

Oh, and definitely do some kind of a fluid film or wool wax corrosion protection. The corrosion resistance is night and day between Volvo and a Toyota, Toyota is pathetic in comparison. My 07 XC70 came with a 12-year, 144k mile corrosion warranty, I think the Toyota's is like 25% of that.

 

Yep we loved the XC90, great car, they handle adverse weather wonderfully. The road can be rough and washouts happen, so that is the idea behind the switch to 4Runner. I don’t expect it to handle ‘better’, just to be a little heavier duty and more clearance for when things get rough.

That makes a lot of sense regarding corrosion protection and warranty. It was a nonissue with the Volvo and we never did anything. I’d wondered why there was so much talk of treating 4Runner frames.

 

I hadn’t thought of that, although I understand narrower is better in snow. Would a 255/75 end up roughly equivalent to a 265/70 in real-world circumference?

EDIT: It looks like that is a bit more of an oddball size, so we would lose the advantage of having more selection vs. the stock 4Runner 265/70-17 size.

 

The 265 is around 31.7" or so tall, depending on manufacturer. The 255 is 32.1" or so.

I don't know if you've noticed that your Speedo runs a little fast, supposedly 255 corrects it exactly.

There actually are quite a few sizes in 255, for over a decade it was the standard size on the Jeep Wrangler JK. I've noticed that if you want a C load, you're pretty likely to find one in a 255.

The new Bridgestones have a 255 listed already, and I know off the top of my head that Cooper, Yokohama, Goodyear, Firestone and General also have 255 tires.

Honestly, I find tire sizes tricky for these 17-in wheels. You find a tire you like, only to find it's only available as a super heavy load range E. Even some of the 265s are only available in E-load.

IMO a 33x10.50 in a C or SL would be PERFECT for the 4Runner, but nobody makes it.

 

Yeah, I don't know if it's because they were designed for the Scandinavian climate, but I found the corrosion protection on my Volvo was awesome. I've owned it since 2012 and have done zero as far as corrosion protection, and it looks better than my 6-year younger 4Runner, which I have been keeping after every since 2019.

It just seems like even the quality of the fasteners and clamps are better, I can look under the hood of the Volvo and everything's fairly rust free, meanwhile all the screws, bolts, and hose clamps on the 4Runner are rusty.

I know the 4Runner is ultimately more reliable, but I feel in many ways the Volvos (at least that era) are built better. My '07 is ready to retire, at 233k miles It just has too many little issues that add up to be worth more than the car. I am kinda thinking I want to get a newer P3 car or XC60 to use as a daily driver and keep the 4Runner more for adventures and off-road.

Here's my XC in Vermont circa 2017, this was my MTB/ camping/ DD vehicle before I got the 4Runner.

 

I always pictured setting up our kids with an AWD Volvo as their first car. Now I need to revisit that idea. What cool, understated cars.

We don't really "commute" and are gone traveling by RV for a good part of the winter, so I am hoping with some care and frequent washes, I can preserve the 4Runner. The way some people talk, it will be crumbling within a few years in MN without 500+ in annual treatments (that is what I'd pay someone else, and with 4 kids and other obligations my time isn't really any cheaper than that). We had a 90's Toyota Pickup included with our property as a plow truck, that's what got me thinking about 4Runners to begin with. But if I need to be on the subscription model with annual treatments for it not to crumble away that is pretty ridiculous.

My current thinking is:

1. 17" wheels (gunmetal TRD, I want to stay OEM) and 255/75-17 or 265/70-17 just based on what I can find for tires. I am hoping this won't increase rock strikes. I run Bridgestone Dueler A/T 265/70R17's (E) on our RV tow rig (3/4T Suburban, pictured below). Its stock suspension is pretty high off the ground so I never worry about rocks. Same with our lifted F350 running 38" Wildpeaks. Anyone have 4Runner thoughts to share regarding hearing rock strikes with A/T tires such as K02/K03's or Wildpeaks?
2. Frame protection: I will try to get Wool wax protection done yet this year, either myself or at a shop, not sure it is practical to get it done annually.
3. Based on the minimal cost I may do a Cornfed 1" front lift just to get it up off the ground a bit for deeper snow, in the event of a road washout, hopefully to further help with rock impact, etc. Another inch (2/1) would help even more if I can find the time.

I am a family man so this is primarily about practicality, safety, and protecting our investment. As you can see from our bone stock Suburban 2500, we play it pretty low key (and in a Suburban 2500 you always look like the police or FBI are pulling up).

 

That is hilarious. My wife was tailing me when we brought it home (we've only driven it that one day, it's been in the garage since), and claimed I was going "too slow" despite cruise locked on 70. This comment alone may get me on the 255 bandwagon

 

It shouldn’t cost 500 for someone to fluid film/wool wax your 4Runner. 200 to 250 is on the pricey side even, I expect to pay between 100 to 150 this year.

 

Ah okay, I'd better shop around. There must be somewhere in the Twin Cities. Thanks!

 

I found Nokian makes a 255:
NOKIAN OUTPOST NAT 255/75R17

I will probably get those just based on the Volvo nostalgia. Cost and warranty are good, and 3-peak.

 

2. Fluid film INSIDE frame, it flows better than Woolwax. Woolwax everywhere OUTSIDE surfaces for better abrasion resistance.

 

255 vs 265 vs 275, etc isn't a discussion about tire height. All of those numbers are tire widths in millimeters and you only know the relative tire diameter/height by including aspect ratio and wheel diameter. Width isn't what throws off, or would lead to correct, speedometer readings.

 

Correct, but going from width 265 / aspect 70 to width 255 / aspect 75 is indeed a change in height. Knowing others have found not that speedometer calibration was thrown off, but in fact seemed to be correct when using 255/75 was useful info for me, and the reason I’m planning on using that size.

 

I've got a 2024 Limited. Just recently, I replaced the stock 20" wheels with a set of 17" takeoff wheels from an Off-Road Pro. I bought a set of Cooper Discoverer Road+Trail AT in 265/70R17 (LR SL) to mount on them. So far I'm really liking the Coopers. They are 3-peak rated, but I'm in Texas so that wasn't much of a consideration for me. The stock Bridgestone Duelers aren't very good, so the Coopers were a real upgrade.

The next change for me is to lose the stock running boards. But my wife needs something to step on to get up into the 4Runner, so I'll probably replace the rocker panels with ORP ones and find less obtrusive running boards or sliders to replace the stock ones.

 

@LastRide I'd like to do the same, and need running boards for the same reason. Is it still the case that the Limited rear wheel well trim will "hang free" and not terminate to the body when switching to ORP rockers, due to differences in the trim? Do people just put up with it?

 

Instead of running boards-- opt for sliders with a kickout and top plate. Kill 2 birds with a single stone. Protection on trails and a step for the ladies

 

Realize though that "kick outs" as steps, not full length, are rock catchers and will get you hung up if you play in the rocks. Full-length kick-outs, or no kick-outs (they aren't "sliders" otherwise).

 

Cool, yes, it would be great to have options like that. I am just not sure about the necessary change from the Limited to ORP rockers to make space for sliders. Do people end up having to change the rear wheel well flare (I'm not interested in going that far)?