Wheel Spacers VS OffSet Rims

Need some advice I have a 21 SR5 premium and need to get tires soon. I want to keep the stock size 265-70-17 and thinking either Falkens or Toyo but then I thought since I need new tires why not new rims. I like the look of having a little poke but don’t know what is better a negative offset rim or just using a wheel spacer. I do know that I don’t want any rubbing or to have to do any cutting or modifications. Which is better to go with and what offset or size spacer? Thanks in advance. If anyone has pictures of their setup with stock size wheels it would be greatly appreciated.

 

As far as positioning the tire further outboard, either will accomplish that. Spacers add a bit of complexity, as now you have 12 lug nuts for each wheel instead of 6. Also, some tire shops refuse to rotate tires if a vehicle has wheel spacers, so check with the shop you use, unless you plan to rotate or service your tires yourself.

I cannot speak to how much offset or what size spacer, but hear a lot that adding "poke" adds rubbing, somewhere.

 

If you go with spacers you have to start at 1.25" to clear the studs. Changing offset would allow you to move the wheels out but not as far.

 

I’m running SCS Blaze 10s with a -10 offset which gives it a little poke. But as they are 17x8.5 even stock tire rubbed some on the mud flap at full lock. They look great though .

 

Offset is better, but it's not necessary and adds wear to steering and suspension components although maybe negligible. Poke looks lame, causes more rock chips down the side of the vehicle, especially off road. And, most important, they are wheels, not rims. None of us have rims, we have wheels. Rims are only one part of a multi-piece wheel. Every time someone says "rims" a kitten dies.

 

He’s not wrong ^

 

very high on the lameness scale!

 

Hey,
not a bad idea at all to stick with 265, you have a nice ‘21. don’t do spacers because like stated above I believe the smallest size depth that fits 4R studs is 1.25”. probably more poke than you want. as for wheels and rubbing, 8” wide isn’t needed for a 265/70, 7-7.5” is safe.. and -10 to -15 offset is likely your safe max b4 rub

as I understand it, in general:

• 1.25” = 32mm.
• On a 0 offset wheel these spaces push you outward in negative offset territory 32mm/1.26”
• your SR5 is a +15mm offset wheel (that’s over 1/2” inwards from center, or 0 offset).
• fyi SR5 7” wide. ORP wheels are 7.5”. both +15mm offset.
• 1.25”/32mm spacers would make your wheel appear to poke out as much as a wheel manufactured with -17 offset.
• the outside face of a 0mm offset wheel is 15mm further outwards than the face of a +15mm offset wheel

 

Ok so they are called wheels not rims. Got it.. I don’t think spacers are good option for me then. Some of the wheels I’ve liked are 8-8.5 ( -6 ) I’m guessing that it wouldn’t cause rubbing issues? I understand that more negative offset pushes the wheel out. What above wheels that are bigger than my stock 7”? As I understand it this would push the wheel/tire out more?
Or my 4Runner currently has black wheel skins ( just covers up the chrome) it’s not bad looking, but I kind of think they are cheesy ( leaving them would save me a ton) any thoughts? My other option I like is TRD wheels?
What’s the consensus? New wheels, TRD wheels or skins?
Thanks again.

 

What on earth is a wheel "skin"?

 

It’s like a hub cap but it goes over the actual chrome wheel. I bought the 4Runner used from the dealer and they were on the vehicle at time of purchase. I liked them as they cover up the actual silver wheels.

 

Do you have a photo of this?

 

oh... no...

$116 Elite Auto Chrome Black 6 Spk 17" Wheel Skins for Toyota 4Runner SR/SR5 2014-2021

https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Auto-Chrome-2014-2019-4Runner/dp/B07RMZRP34

 

Wow.

 

Another kitten just died.

 

At no time was the word rim used.

 

Poke looks lame, riiiiight.

 

Are you referring to Hawaiian style:


Or functional:


Or just full stop, any poke at all “is lame” in your opinion?

 

OP,
If you know what offset you want, buy wheels with that offset. This is better than wheel spacers.

Good quality (spidertrax or similar) spacers are safe enough in my opinion, but you are adding weight and complexity to your setup.
There are plenty of photos on the web to show your exact wheel with spidertrax 1.25" spacers. If that's the look you want, get those.

If you want different wheels, then make sure to do plenty of research and buy the correct width and offset.

It really just comes down to
1. Do you want new wheels
2. Price of new wheels vs spidertrax

 

Hawaiian is ridiculous, if it was lifed functional would be fine, but I’m not planning to lift it, more like 1/2 “ tops , just not a fan of the wheels sticking way under the wheel well. I’m leaning toward -6 or -10 offset but then was thinking that the stock wheel is 7” and most of the ones I like are 8-8.5 ( haven’t seen many 7” options. I thought if I went with the larger wheel it would serve the purpose and push it out some. But I see everyone has way different opinions on these threads here.

 

Yeah, you asked for a consensus but I don't think you'll get one here xD That is a good thing imo. It's what makes modifying so fun. Tailor it to your wants a needs. Not anyone else's.

Here's a thread with some options and pictures:
https://www.4runners.com/threads/show-us-your-wheel-and-tire-setup.22408/

If you have specific questions post em here. I'm sure the people will chime in.

 

Yeah, aftermarket wheels I find aren’t gonna be 7 inches wide, do the eight or 8 1/2 inch wide and yes get a moderate amount of negative offset -6 or -10 and I really think you’ll be perfect imo

 

I was just agreeing with you. You posted, in bold, that it was lame and included a couple of examples.

I think the location of the wheel/tire in the wheel opening should be based on the terrain and conditions. There should be as little lift as necessary to clear the tires you need to provide the ground clearance you need, and that includes the amount the wheel/tire combo sticks out from the fender/quarter. Everything should be as minimal as necessary for the conditions you drive. So, lowest center of gravity, and narrow. My preference is a narrow wheel, with a narrow tire, tucked in close. The tire should only be as tall as necessary to clear the terrain you're driving. I prefer a 10.5" wide tire, in 33" or 35" diameter. Easy-peasy.

 

Oh my bad. Sarcasm can be hard to read on the internet so guess I should have made that more obvious for you.

By the way, a lift does not clear tires on IFS. Only trimming does.

 

I wasn't being sarcastic. Lift does clear tires, depending on the vehicle, even some with IFS.

 

No. It doesn’t

 

Ya man. I’m trying hard to find 10.5x35 in Canadia and will sell my 33s

 

who indeed “understands IFS”
we’ll have to wait and see