Oil Change

2018 4R. I am planning to do mid-year oil changes between annual major services. I want to pump the oil out through the dip stick tube to avoid dropping the skid plates. Will the 4R dip stick tube accomodate this? Thx

 

It's a pain to get an oil reading so I'm thinking trying to stick a suction tube through the dipstick tube will be difficult. The OEM skid is 4 bolts to remove unless you have the useless TRD brah skid.

 

I wouldn't recommend this to be honest. Let gravity do its job. In other words, there are little mini parts that tend to accumulate at the bottom and you want to remove this out of the bottom pan. Pumping it out doesn't remove them at all. Just my 2c.

 

I understand all this; that is why I plan full servicing annually. This will be a 4000 mile "infusion" between 8000 mile full services. I have aftermarket ARB skid plates, which are a pain. I simply need to know if the pump suction tube will feed completely to the bottom of the oil pan.

 

Yes, It will work. Will it remove same amount as drain and fill, No.

General consensus is it isn't recommended.

 

As long as you use your mouth you shouldn’t have any problems.

 

Dropping the skid is unpleasant the first time. After you see how the hooks operate in front, you can let them carry the weight during most of the removal and installation. It gets to be fairly quick and easy. The hardest part is changing the oil filter. How were you planning to deal with that?

 

And leave all the sediment and contaminants behind?

 

If you want to avoid dropping the skids everytime invest in skid plates like RCI and others that have an access panel door. This will save you an abundance of time.

 

I would install a drain valve like a Fumoto with a hose attached.

There's no guarantee it will.

 

This reminds me of being a kid and my cheap ass grandpa making me siphon out the summer washer fluid out of his cars with a hose and my mouth. I can still taste that shit

 

OP stated he has ARB skids, so I don't think the hook part is applicable.

I found several YT videos showing the extractor process, but all of them were on cars that are low to the ground. None of them verified whether the extractor reaches to the bottom of the pan except one. That person pulled the drain plug at the end, and no oil drained afterward.

 

This is akin to adding water to an empty mustard bottle and getting a few extra sandwiches out of it. Don't half ass it. Do it right or leave it alone.

 

Don't be watery mustard sandwiching your 4Runner!

 

You can do this and it will drain oil.just not as completely as doing it the conventional way.

 

Oops, I missed that. FWIW, I tried a manual extractor pump before installing a drain valve, just to see if I could reduce the mess. I couldn't get the tube anywhere near the bottom of the pan. I'm much happier with the Valvomax drain valve.

 

It would be nice to compare how much you get out via extractor versus drain bolt.

That oil filter is still a pain though

 

I guess I’ll fess up, last oil change I overfilled by a quart. I was hurrying and not paying attention. Got my West Marine oil extractor and using the thinnest line was able to fit it down the dip stick tube far enough to remove the quart overfill. I was praying that the skinny line didn’t hang up on something and I couldn’t get it out. Pulled very slowly and carefully with one hand, crossed my fingers with the other and success!

 

So, I take care of a small fleet of vehicles for my family. 2015 Tacoma, 2017 4Runner, 2016 Lexus GX460, Accura TL, and a Nissan Rogue. For years I’ve used a compressor driven oil vacuum. It’s fantastic. Warm the car up a little to suspend any particles, and turn the vacuum on. Change the filter, and refill. Works like a charm. I also cheat on my 4Runner, because I installed a spin on filter adapter from Baxter racing.

 

What size canister filter do you use now? Is it still in the same location?

 

It looks like you have access to the drain plug but not the oil filter. I agree going with the Fumoto for draining the oil. For the oil filter, why not cut an access hole? Either weld a lip around the inside of the hole so the removed piece can be bolted back in place or use another piece of metal as the cover. My RCI skids use these type of slide on nuts. Just drill some holes and slide these over the holes.

$20 100pcs Self Tapping Nut Manganese Steel u Nut U Nut Fastener Spire u Clip Motorcycle u Nut

https://www.amazon.com/Assortment-Tapping-Interior-Fastener-Anti-Leakage/dp/B0CR7KGPFM

 

It’s in the same location. I use the NAPA Gold 1348, but I think there are a few others that fit. The adapter takes up 1 extra inch, so you need to either run a TRD skid plate or go without, which is what I do. Since it’s a 2WD road warrior, I don’t sweat it too much.

 

i agree. Do it right and drain at the pan and oil filter housing b

 

Not the same motor but I used to do this with my inboard on the boat. 4.3L gas 5qt.

Most I've ever sucked out was little over 4 qt. So I'm assuming about a qt would be left behind.

Would not recommend on a car where you can get under it.

 

I've compared, since I was hesitant when I first started doing it this way. If done properly (meaning you don't push the tube down so far it starts curling up in the pan) you get all but a few ounces. And if your oil is warm, virtually all particles will be suspended in the liquid. The rest should be trapped in your filter.

 

Picking between doing oil changes more often (because it isn't such PITA) and completely removing every last drop - go with more often.

I've done engine work in the past, had block apart on the stand and most of it on the bench and apart. Even after oil pan drain and sitting for a while unused, typical engine would leave an oily mess because there is a quite a bit of oil left inside of oil passages even after you drain it. Probably as much as half a quart.

 

Thank you Rupp1for the informed and useful reply!