5th gen... Stock Head Unit, Stock Speakers Ohm Load...

I'm looking for replacement speakers... I'm trying to determine the best speaker replacement for my proposed amp that I will purchase. I'm planning on picking out a 5 channel amp (2 channels, front, 2 channels rear, and 1 sub channel).

I realize the Front Speakers on the 5th gen are wired in parallel ("Parallel wiring is the most common and simplest way of wiring. All it involves is combining the positive leads (+) together, and the negative leads together (-). This can be achieved by simply plugging all speakers individually into the same corresponding terminals on the amplifier, or by connecting the speakers together."). Assuming each speaker is 4 ohms, this would create a 2 ohm load on each channel.

I realize the Rear Speakers on the the 5th gen are wired in series ("When wiring in series, you connect the negative (-) terminal on the first speaker to the positive (+) terminal on the next speaker in the chain. This can be repeated to more speakers as necessary.") Assuming each speaker is 4 ohms, this would create an 8 ohm load on each channel.

For reference on Ohm loads per wiring method: https://audiovolt.co.uk/blogs/av-in...allel-series-and-how-does-it-affect-impedance

I have not removed the speakers yet. Can anyone confirm the exact ohm specs for each speaker?

Ultimately my goal is to have a realized 2 ohm load on each channel to use the stock speaker wiring:
Front: 4 speakers that are 4 ohm each (midbass and wideband). Would create 2 ohms total on each channel being wired in parallel
Rear: Removing Hatch Speakers (for dog's sake and ohm load sake). 2 speakers that are 2 ohms total on each channel being wired in series.

Is this the correct way to utilize an amp that has an RMS range that is 2 ohm stable per channel?
I find many speakers that are 4 ohms, but I will need to search around for 2 ohm speakers for the Rear doors.

Thanks! Just planning my entire system out and want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

 

Bump, for what it's worth, I've decided I will test the ohm load once I wire up my new amp. I will probably keep the wiring as it is initially to see what the ohm load is. I will then bypass the hatch speakers and then run new wires to the dash from the amp.

 

I didn't find it terribly difficult to run new speaker wire to the dash and front doors when I redid the factory system. You're already pulling wire for the amp, likely doing some sort of converter process from the OEM unit to the amp anyways, so wiring a proper setup to the front stage should be considered.

Having the amp drive both door and dash for both sides each might result in one of those speakers seemingly overpowering the other with no way to balance it. Using your amp to drive the dash speakers as one set of LR, and the front doors as another LR gives you more flexibility. You can leave the rear doors on the OEM unit for fill if needed.

 

I think this is the correct way to do it. I imagine running he dash won' be as hard (just fishing the cable through the rear of the dash to where I need it to go (under passenger seat most likely).

What was involved with new wires into the doors? Not sure if there is a grommet you were able to poke them through. Also, which gauge did you go with for dash and front door (16 gauge?)

 

Existing grommet through the door for the door wire was the most difficult part. I went 14 gauge but if I was doing it again, I'd go 16 gauge as it's a tight squeeze alongside the existing wire bundle already three. Door to body is the way I fished the wire.