2009 4Runner Urban Runner

I have a 2009 4Runner, Urban Runner model with 170K miles that may be the best vehicle I've ever owned - it just suits me. It is my daily driver and I typically do not drive it off-road. Just had the local dealership do an oil and filter change and check the shocks. Sometimes when I hit a bump in the road it, for a time it would feel like I was driving over a washboard. Service Manager (a friend of mine) says the shocks are "shot." Looks like it has the X-REAS system and they are very expensive to replace.

A little research informed me just what this system is and what it does. I'm debating whether to change over to a conventional shock setup to avoid the extra expense. Seems like Bilstein 5100 shocks are a popular replacement. I love the "sporty" ride of this vehicle and would like to maintain it. Not looking for anything too stiff OR soft like a land yacht.

Hoping you can steer me in the right direction.

Thanks,

Doug

 

The 5100’s are a solid all around good shock. You can’t go wrong ripping the xreas system out and replacing it with a set of those. Its probably what I’ll end up doing when my xreas start to fail.

 

You’re on the right track in terms of removing the X-REAS. But according to Bilstein, 5100s are designed for lifted trucks that typically have more weight (armor, winch, etc.). That’s likely why some people find them too stiff for daily driver applications. Check out Bilstein 4600s or Eibach. I’ve had both and either is a great choice.

My may be helpful. Lots of info on removing X-REAS along and links to the service manual files on the removal process.

 

Hi Again Folks,

Well, here we are almost a year later and I did replace the X-REAS system with new Bilstein 5100 shocks shortly after the original post. However, I'm still getting that "washboard shake" when I hit a bump in the road. It only lasts for a few seconds and then goes away. It also seems that when it starts, if I let up on the gas pedal it stops - kind of a mystery. Has anyone else experienced this and if so, what is the solution?

Thanks,

Doug

 

Did you replace the springs?

 

Did not replace the springs. With 170K did not think it was necessary. Is there a history of these cars experiencing this kind of "washboard" shaking because of defective springs?

Doug

 

I don't have specific evidence on the washboard thing but springs are in fact, in Motor Trend's words, "the foundation of a suspension system." I replaced mine at 150K b/c I knew they were 15-year-old metal that had carried a 4500-lb. truck the equivalent of 8 times around the planet. Plus I knew I'd always wonder how much better the ride would be had I replaced them. I don't know if it would solve your problem specifically but new springs would almost certainly improve your ride and handling.

 

And i replaced my stock springs at ~250k miles and they sagged both front and rear over 1.5" than if they were 'new'. I got like 2.5" and 2" of lift on springs that should have only lifted me 1" and 3/4", lol. Thats how i knew my OEM springs were sagging so much.

 

I don't necessarily disagree that the ride and handling might be improved with new springs. After I installed the new shocks, the ride did not seem to change much, i.e. it was still "sporty" which I really like. This vehicle drives and rides like a sports car to me - it's why I went for the Urban Runner. However, this "washboard" problem was present before I changed the shocks and still remains. I'd like to find out specifically what's causing it. I thought the new shocks would fix it, but didn't happen.

I was hoping it was a known problem with this generation - looks like not to be. I'll probably wind up taking it out to the Toyota dealership. Fortunately I'm friends with the Service Manager - we'll see. I'll report back when it's fixed (fingers crossed.)

Doug

 

Is the washboard symptom you’re talking about too stiff of springs for the weight. I get that it’s OEM suspension but maybe that’s just a trait of the urban runner (I’m unfamiliar with that model). Does it come with ‘stiffer’ springs than other trims?

 

I have an urban runner as well, along with a slew of tacomas, tundras, other 4runners as well.
I have had 3 4runners with Xreas, i currently still own one, but i too had to replace the shocks on my Urban Runner when they started leaking and lost their gas charge.
The washboard feeling you are describing sounds like a bad shock. If you watch videos on how shocks work, you will understand that they dont actually do the "bump absorption" like most people think, they are simply a fluid transfer device. Depending on the nitrogen charge, and piston and shim stack, the shock can move XX amount of oil over XX amount of time. This basically slows and controls the spring, which is the actual job of the shock. The shock simply slows the compression and rebound of the spring in order to keep the spring from "reverberating". If you ever see a car on the highway next to you hit a bump and one of the tires bounces up and down pretty violently, this is from a bad shock. The shock can no longer control the rate at which the spring compresses and rebounds so the spring does its natural thing and bounces up and down for a period of time until it settles itself down. The washboard effect you got when the Xreas was going bad was just from what is described above. The Xreas system is a series of lines connecting the shocks to twin expansion chambers like a remote mount reservoir. These reservoirs held the oil and nitrogen charge and allowed the shocks to have more fluid flow and also cross transfer fluid and pressure from one corner to the other for braking and cornering. When the shocks, lines, o-rings, or canisters start leaking and the shock starts to lose its nitrogen pressure, then the shock cant control itself and you get the reverberating spring symptoms.

The sounds you are describing, the washboard effect, sounds simply like a shock is bad and the tire is fluttering up and down after a bump. A good set of shocks should slow the spring, and smooth this out. First thing i would do is find a road or place where it does it consistently and have someone with you hold a camera out the window and film the different wheels as you run over the bumps that cause your symptoms. Find out which wheel does something different or weird to locate which one appears to be the problem or the worst. Once you figure that out you can then inspect and see if you can replicate the issues in different circumstances, under the vehicle, or swapping the shocks from one side to the other to see if the problem swaps sides. When the shock is working, the compression and rebound should be controlled by the shock and you should not have a tire bouncing up and down after a bump.

ALSO.... from experience, i would check the front sway bar bushings and sway bar. I have seen the sway bar get chewed up by the sway bar bushing and the sway bar be half its normal diameter inside the bushing. This from sand/grit/mud/salt getting between the bushing and the sway bar and eating the metal up as it spins up and down. If the sway bar is chewed up you need a sway bar and a new set of bushings. I have seen this personally on my own stuff and on others. This one went from silent to thunking over the course of a week. I had seen a little rusty residue on the sway bar previously but the bushing was intact and tight on the sway bar so i could not see inside the bushing. Once the bushing decided to open up you could see the sway bar is almost half the diameter its supposed to be and flopping up and down when you hit a bump.

 

No its a sport model, i think that got the different sway bar and different brakes along with the hood scoop, crossed with the Limited model for the painted bumpers and handles and mirrors in pearl paint, and TRD Offroad stuff cause its got the skid plates and gas tank skid plate.

The only difference in the 4runners would be the 2wd front springs are shorter than the 4wd front springs. Other than that i am fairly confident they share the same springs across the models.
MAYBE the v8 models got a different front spring, i know on the 1st gen Tundra there are like 12 different front springs, based on which cab, and which engine, and 2wd vs 4wd. So maybe the v8 4runners got different front springs but i am pretty sure all of the Urban runners (2008-2009) were all 1GR-FE v6

 

I would be surprised if it's a bad shock (and I do understand how suspensions work.) The new shocks, as mentioned above, were installed by the local Toyota dealership. This one is a V-6, BTW.

Doug

P.S. BTW, special thanks to you, Airdam for taking the time to write such an extensive and thoughtful response, along with posting a photo. I'll report back when this mystery is solved.

 

Where i was going with my statement was, like in my Tacoma, i have an AAL and OME front springs that all make the suspension stiffer. Unloaded, when i go over bumps at speed, the rear end bounces all around due to the stiffer springs and no weight on them. Loaded, it rides really nice and planted. Was just spitballin.

 

Makes sense. Not sure the details of the suspension components on my Urban Runner, except the new shocks. This feels more like a front end problem to me.

Doug

 

check the lower A-arm bushings, those are not typically a problem in the 4runner but i have seen them go bad on the Tundra forums
check that sway bar and bushings
something has gotta be wrong you just gotta find it

 

Great idea. Hadn’t thought of the bushings, but they definitely are an issue on 4th Gens. They dry out, shrink, and get brittle. These are my LCA bushings when I replaced them. They should fill that cylinder. Could cause washboarding if there’s space between the wall & bushing(s). 1A Auto has very inexpensive replacements that I decided to try and they’ve been great so far on and off the pavement. Lifetime warranty and a superb library of install videos too.

Still recommend springs though just to improve ride & handling.

 

Definitely don't bother replacing X-REAS. 5100's are great especially for a stiffer shock, but in my opinion OME outperforms them anyday.

 

Update:

Took the 2009 Urban Runner to the local Toyota dealership to have this problem checked out; the Service Manager is a friend of mine. Looks like the root of the problem is not in the suspension system but in the transmission, unfortunately. The replacement Toyota transmission for this model runs $6,600, obviously not worth that amount to me for this vehicle.

His recommendation was NOT to replace the transmission with a new one from Toyota, given the cost. There are a few options: Sell the vehicle as is, informing the buyer as to the condition, and look for another 4Runner. Or drive it until the transmission completely fails (estimate of ~1 year.) and deal with the problem then. Or, find a replacement transmission from an online dealer and have the dealership install it. His estimate of the labor to install it is in the $1,500 range. Another option could be to have the transmission locally rebuilt. I live in a small town so I'll have to check in to see if we have a local shop that can do this work.

So, after a quick search the options for used transmissions seem to be 1) Buy one from a salvage yard with the lowest miles you can find (these seem to be all over the place as far as the stipulations of the purchase.) Or, buy one that has been reconditioned and has a limited warranty, which costs considerably more.

Looking for suggestions and recommendations from those who may have already done this.

Thanks,

Doug

 

I haven’t experienced it (knock on wood) but there’s a known issue typically called the The linked thread may be helpful. I would start with a fluid exchange before replacing the transmission. Nothing to lose (except the cost of course).

 

Just spoke with my friend the service manager at the local Toyota dealership; my 4Runner is there now for service. I had sent him a link to this thread to read. Interestingly, he had not heard about this "glitch" with these vehicles.

After discussing it, I've decided to just drive it and live with the situation, as long as it continues to be just a minor nusiance. Again, this is my first 4Runner and I've enjoyed the vehicle immensely the last 4+ years. Otherwise, it's been a trouble-free vehicle that has a lot of utility and is fun to drive. Will report back if anything changes.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Doug

 

I got a quote to rebuild my transmission just for the hell of it when I had the fluid flushed. This was from Dr. Trans in San Diego which seems to be a reputable transmission shop. They quoted me $2,800-3,200 depending on exact amount of parts required. Just for reference.

 

Thanks for the information. If my transmission goes I'll definitely take a look at having it rebuilt. That price is close to what it would cost to buy a used one and have the dealership install it.

Doug