Replacing struts/shocks.

Are upper strut mounts specific to strut manufacturers? Or, can I use existing strut mounts for new struts other than OEM manufacturer?

 

Depends on the brand. Coilovers usually come with their own specific mounts, but many companies like Dobinsons, OME, Bilstein, etc use OEM strut mounts, or have their own copy of them.

As long as the hardware is in good shape and not rusty, and also that the rubber mount isn't super old and cracked, you can reuse them in most cases. It just takes more work to disassemble the old mounts off the old struts, so a lot of people buy new ones to save that extra step.

 

Thanks.
I ordered Bilstein 5100 and they are out of mounts. I’ll be compressing and using my existing coil/spring, So if I understand you correctly, I can go to wherever, Amazon for example and order “upper strut mounts for 2016 SR5….” I would rather not use the originals if I’m working hard on the struts.

 

Yeah, that's right.

We sell these everyday and they've been awesome. Not the cheapest, but they're very good quality.
https://exitoffroad.com/product/dob...plates-tacoma-4runner-fj-cruiser-gx470-gx460/

 

Thanks for sticking with me. Sorry, didn't realize you were in sales. I'd like to send business your way if it makes sense.
After a sauna in Virginia with high humidity my buddy and I were able to get struts mounted, struggled with the lower control arm on the front left just a bit. Struts are on, replaced the sway bar links on both sides because we noticed the sway bar link on the right front (upper bushing) was blown and the lower bushing was ragged. Close it all up and get it aligned the following day at Toyota dealership hoping to be buttoned up. Four days later, clanking noise front right, obviously from the area of work. Found the sway bar clanking up against the new sway bar link, right front, and the link was contorted. Unlike the front left which we replaced as well. On the alignment sheet from the dealership, "before and current" they only had to adjust the "toe". Could that have thrown off the sway bar link enough to put stress on it and then create the "clanking" noise between the sway bar and the link?
I could try to tighten the sway bar link nut on the bottom but we torqued them to spec (at that time). Any feedback on the "contorted" sway bar link would be appreciated. I have a phone pic if anyway may want to look at it.
I'm thinking...I might try to remove the sway bar link and reinstall, hoping to relieve that pressure. BUT... it appears that link could be a function of the lower control arm??? Anyone have experience in this area?