3vze Oil Pan Gasket

Ok, I am new to the 3vze. I'm not sure of the best way to seal up the oil pan. I am rebuilding the engine. I have never seen a two part system like this and historically I have not had good success with cork gaskets.

What would be the best way to go with this? Use the cork with RTV sealant? Loctite 515 only on all surfaces? I just don't want any leaks.

Thank you.

1995 4Runner 3.0
Automatic

 

Buy a rubber gasket online or Toyota dealer, the use grey gasket maker from the tube.. you tube it.. simple .. but ensure the surfaces are super clean Before you use the grey sealant!

 

Got it. Thanks.

 

we used Toyota RTV only. No gasket. That is what it calls for.

 

Clean up the oil pan and the wind-age tray panel with brake cleaner and or carb-cleaner and a wire brush on a drill motor to get it clean and remove any and all old sealant or gasket material. Then flip the oil pan over onto a hard surface like the garage floor and use a small faced hammer to flatten the dam holes and surrounding metal as I will bet this has been completely over tightened and ruined by some PO or some num-nuts ASE mechanic. Then get your cheese wiz can of Permatex Right-Stuff gasket maker and apply a bead to the block or the wind-age tray and place it over the two studs for alignment. Then apply the same bead of Right-Stuff to the oil pan and set it in place on the same two studs. You now have a lot of M6 hex head machine screws to set correctly. Use decent thick washers under each of the screw heads and the two nuts if they are not all ready there. Get a Spin-Doctor or equivalent 1/4" drive torque wrench and set it to about 8 to 10 N-m. Then work your way across the oil pan and draw it and the wind-age tray down evenly like you were doing a head gasket. I take three passes to bring this assembly to the desired torque and skip every other screw as I go around the pan to draw it down evenly. The Right-Stuff should form a nice bulge all around the two seems. Just be sure as you apply the beads and smooth it onto the surface that you go around the bolt holes and sweep the inside and outside of the hole with the gasket maker or you will get oil seeping out of the fastener hole/s. If you end up having to remove this oil pan after this stuff has cured it will require a wood chisel and a good hammer to open up the joint between the wind-age tray and the oil pan. But it will never leak!...

 

Ultra grey or The right stuff.

 

I've used both. The darker less grey colored Right Stuff has exceptional strength for an RTV sealant. I have used it to repair air intake ducting and even as an assembly bond to hold things in place were epoxy might be considered a better choice. The only draw back with this stuff is the aerosol-can gets difficult to work with after the initial use as the nozzle tends to get well sealed up with cured product after several weeks in storage.

 

Appreciate the information as always.

 

I received a quote to replace the oil pan gasket for $1100 on the 89 3VZE. Evidently it involves disconnecting some of the steering linkage components and raising the engine a bit. Does that sound right?