Transmission Coolers Suggestions and tips

Hi, looking for a transmission cooler. I see some that are $59, then others that are $200. Some have fans and some do not.

Any suggestions on what yall using for anyone with a cooler that is towing an RV? Will the coolers will the built in fan fit in the Gen5 ? Is a passive cooler just sitting in front just as good?

Thanks for any insight!

 

Read this thread to decide if you really need a transmission cooler: https://www.4runners.com/threads/transmission-coolers.32901/

 

I used Hayden #579 transmission cooler around $50-60. It's for an RV towing 10k lbs. I have used through the years. The Hayden Rapid cool has more cooling surface than regular tube and fin design. It should come out of radiator cooler and into auxiliary plumbing. My cooler lines were at top on passenger radiator side and hoses were color coded for hot line (pink paint mark) and return line (blue paint mark). Using Toyota logical thinking, for once, I guessed and I didn't have to search them out. I think they make a #679 now, but this one is big enough and easier to work into radiator.

 

https://iconicfabricationoffroad.co...ion-cooler-bracket-kit?variant=44479565988090

 

You don't need a mounting bracket. Should come with the nylon mounts. I removed radiator cowl cover, I leaned my radiator back and used the nylon mounting through radiator. I didn't have to remove grill, but you can. I was able to maneuver it into the void. Use foam pieces between cooler and radiator and pull tight. Never experienced a failure with them. You want a Rapid cool model if you can. Much better.

 

I like the idea of mounting with metal brackets not the push pins thru radiator. Seems more solid of a mount especially off road. For anyone that wants a ATF cooler and a winch just a heads up there can be mounting challenges. My cooler is interfering with where the c4 and winch need to be. Having to redo the cooler location for the warn evo.

 

I understand but I have used last 40 years with no failure. Using the foam and pulling tight it can't go anywhere more room on radiator face out of the way. I have used electric fans and nylon mount no problem. If you have to work on or repair in the field, it's easier for and faster than removing hard to get to bolts. I'm getting ready to put electric fan on my 2013 4runner with nylon mounts. I have bounced them, wrecked them and no issues. I would like to get aluminum radiator eventually

 

I’ll take the bracket when available.

 

In front of radiator getting coolest air is fine. I have never seen transmission temperature light ever come on without one. I did for dependability, temp reduction and durability. Makes a difference in transmission fluid life and color. It is easy to buy latest greatest things, but most isn't always best.

 

Does it require more Transmission oil after installing a cooler due to the extra volume?

 

Yes you will need to add some fluid and check the level at temp do let overfill drain out.

 

Yes you will have to add and check level. With cooler and extra hose mine took about a quart more. Check running with check plug so lines are full of fluid for correct level

 

If you've ever monitored your Temps on a hot summer day when cruising down the hwy, Temps will approach 190 in the pan. TC will get 20 to 30 degrees hotter. I prefer not to let it get any hotter than that, which I have seen my pan get to 215* climbing a mtn pass. Not even towing, just hauling camping gear at about 5900 lbs gvw. Yes Toyota has a trans temp warning dash lights, but I prefer to monitor. I have a small B&M w a small Derale pusher fan on a manual switch that helps. A little bigger cooler would be better though.
Now if you live in cold climates, you will need a minimum temp bypass. Cold op Temps will do damage almost as much as over heating.

 

Well transmission fluid goes through radiator and will be around same temperature as engine. That's not hot for a transmission. They have a transmission temperature light on dash. Never seen one on. I don't worry about watching temperature gauge. If you plumb through cooler coming from radiator it will cool more. It's about keeping temperature from rising more than making cooler. You would want your gauge sensor as it comes out of cooler for reading.

 

Any cooler helps, but you're right. It will operate at engine temperatures since it passes through radiator anyway.

 

Passes through radiator at engine temperature so it's going to be operating at thermostat temperature regardless of outside temp.

 

Where did you install that cooler with the fan? Is there space to put it out front of everything. I think its about 5" space required installing a cooler with a fan, vs 2" or less for non fan.

 

My cooler is on right front of radiator but my electric fan is replacing my manual clutch fan on inside of radiator. I was able to get mine in without removing anything much but radiator cowl and moving a line. You can take front grill out also for access. I have never needed separate fan for transmission cooler. It would be a fan pulling across a fan and it's overkill for me. I have always used pullers inside of pushers. It's good to get a electric with a shroud. It's pulling air across transmission cooler already. I bought a 3300 cfm fan which is probably a little much. I hope not to noisy. Its a Flex a Light for a 2nd generation 4runner and measuring it looks like it and shroud will fit perfect. My idea is when it does kick on it won't be for long. You would be surprised how cool they run. I drove 50 miles with no fan in my 97. In clean air it ran thermostat temperature. Only time temperature rose was a car in front of your air. I shut off at red lights to keep cool. Never missed a beat.

 

Any pictures?

 

I was looking but I deleted last week because I didn't have anyone to show. I try and find again.

 

Only one I could still find. Picture on vehicle is hard to really see. There's room on passenger side of radiator and it's close to transmission lines you connect to

 

How do you know how much Transmission oil to put back in? Given the entire process of changing the tranny oil, I would assume its just the same process, but if you knew how much oil remains in the cooler, you could just add that.

 

Got my cooler in today. Kind of a pain to route the new hoses. I removed the radiator overflow tank to get a little better access. The hardest part was getting that edge protector stuff in the access holes. I added a half quart of WS through the return line to make up the minor amount I spilled and the volume of the cooler and hoses.

 

It passes through the cooled side of the radiator. I have no idea how much the temperature drops passing through the radiator but only the intake side of the radiator will be engine temperature.

 

I have scanguage 2 mounted on column.
When newly installed I watched stock tranny temp when on 70mph+ highway outing with many hills and a couple long grades. Readings were 180 to 205 on climbs and lower on straights.
Not letting torque converter slip was important. Temps went 210 till I shifted into 4S, then came down fast.
4runner had medium load for car camping trip.
Air temps were 100, and roadway hot.
I plan a better log next trip and bring my IR temp gun for axle, wheel, tire, road temps, etc. too.
I believe radiators have a temp gradient in them, with a cool part (relative) and that is why the factory tranny cooler works well.

 

Di you use that Icon bracket? I thought it only worked on the drivers side.