my boring clutch rebuild thread

Hello, new member here. I'm going to duplicate some of this content from a similar thread on another forum that doesn't seem to want to function. This is not a how-to thread, it will be more of an "help-me" thread lol. I've never done a clutch before, never wanted to, and hope I never have to again.

This is a 97 4WD 6 cyl 3.4L with 310,000 miles, with the original clutch.

Starting from partway in:

I have been neglecting my poor 4runner the last few years while occupied by other concerns like food and shelter. Plus I had sort of given it up for lost due to rust. Then I learned about fluid film, and that renewed hope that I can squeeze a few more years out of it.

Spending some time underneath it has me noticing things, and not good things. While my frame looks ok rust-wise, I discovered both of my front sway bar links have rusted apart completely. Surely other front suspension parts are in need of replacement too, but I haven't checked. Based on the way it chews up tires I am confident of that. I also noticed what may be rear axle seal leaks, as evidenced by a damp-looking buildup of crud in back of each wheel



I haven't checked the diff breather, but I will.

Then I noticed this flange seemed bent on the steering linkage, but when I reached up and photographed it the image suggests that maybe that is normal, since both sides are the same. Either that or both sides are abnormal, lol. I dunno, its above my pay grade.
(its oily because my valve cover gaskets are in need of replacement...that was already on my list for this year before the clutch started dying).



I have questioned the wisdom of proceeding any further, as opposed to cutting my losses and unloading this 4runner. But since I don't have the money to replace it, and I already bought the new clutch parts, I will plunge forward even as the list of needed repairs grows ever longer.

The driveshafts are off, and I will continue to pick away at it an hour or two per day. I expect the job will take me a few weeks, and that's if everything goes well.

PS-things rarely go well if they involve me and mechanical projects

 

Well things are moving, slowly but surely. I got all of the wiring disconnected and out of the way, and removed the top 2 tranny bolts yesterday. I removed them via the shifter access, but I don't think it would be much harder to just ratchet them from in back of the transfer case. I only needed a 25 inch extension (including socket, and 2 wobble sections) ) to do it from inside the cab. Hardest part was reaching up from below to get the socket and extension on the bolts by feel. Once they were loose they were easy to back out by hand. The other 4 bolts come off today. I hope I don't have to separate the exhaust manifold from the pipe but it looks like I might have to.

 

I decided I need to get that exhaust pipe apart so that's what I did today. Got 2 nuts off using a cheater without much trouble, but the 3rd one was a major pain. I soaked it in penetrating oil, enjoyed the sunny warm day, and came back later. I had to use 2 short wobble extensions in order to get the socket firmly in place so as not to strip the nut. I was very worried that I'd break the stud using the cheater but I didn't. I had similar concerns with the tranny bolt that secures the slave line, where I also had to use 2 wobbles. But luck has been on my side so far and I got them all out intact. Now I'm ready to get the jack under it, pull the cross member out, and then, hopefully, the tranny. If you have any tips for pulling it out solo, now would be the time!

 

Got my rear main seal and pilot bearing in, ready for the flywheel now. But... although I marked it with white paint I have no idea what I marked it up against. It might have been the greasy steering rack fluid lines that I have since cleaned up, and there are no remaining marks except on the flywheel. I'm pretty sure I would have marked it at about the 6 oclock position because it would have been dumb and awkward to mark it anywhere else.

Should i be fine if i install it with my flywheel mark at 6 oclock?

 

I'm at a loss to understand why it would even matter, but all the tutorials say to mark the flywheel and align it to the marks when reinstalling. .

 

well I've made my first blunders. I installed the flywheel but I forgot to put adhesive on the bolts. I took it off and installed it again, at which time I realized that my blocks were no longer supporting the oil pan and the back of the engine has dropped. Does it matter? I don't know. Should I attempt to lift it up, and if so how much? I don't know.

anyway here's my flywheel with 310,000 miles on it





and here's my flywheel with 310,000 miles on it after machining.



Good as new! Ready for another 300 I hope.