Annoying interior rattle

I’ve got a small rattle thats developed by the rear passenger seat. I’ve tracked it to be coming from above the seatbelt area and ended up removing the interior panel to track it down. With the panel removed it is clear that the rattle, which sounds almost like a creak or a buzz sometime, is coming from above the liner. I’ve peeled the liner back some, as far as I could without creasing it, and it sounds like the sound is coming from the curtain airbag area.... just wanted to see if anyone else has had similar issue and if they were able to resolve it. Creak/buzz is mainly noticeable when speeding up, slowing down or turning.
Any help is appreciated.

 

I have a similar rattle but mine seems to be coming from the front dash speaker. It’s driving me crazy! Seems like it comes and goes.

 

Similar rattles for me as well, sounded like it was coming from the passenger dash speaker area. Popped the speaker grill off, applied a bunch of felt, tightened the bolts holding the tweeter to the dash a bit and popped in back on. That quieted it down but still there. Also have the 4wd shifter rattling depending on engine rpm...haven't figured out how to try to fix that one yet

 

2013 TE and no rattles since OEM windshield got replaced (it was causing creaking sounds when cold).

 

Hmm I wonder if what i'm hearing is related to my windshield...what was wrong with your windshield that caused the noises?

 

I think OEM adhesive wasn't flexible enough since it happened when cold only.

 

Hmm that’s interesting, sounds like hell to get the dealer to diagnose and replace lol, maybe not. The dealers around me aren’t motivated much to assist with rattles, squeaks, and creaks unfortunately. Cold weather definitely makes things more noticeable though.

 

If you ever hear a heavy metallic clunking in the back when going over potholes or corrugations, check that your jack stand is stowed tightly. Took me a bit to find that one during an off-road trip

 

You would be surprised how many creaks, buzzing and squeaking noises actually come from your door and window rubber seals that are dried or drying out rubbing against each other and your door. It always sounds like its coming from somewhere else too. These rubber seal squeaks are very very common. I'd highly recommend adding the following maintenance procedure:

Buy silicone grease, and massage a little all over your rubber lol (less is more). Honda Shin-etsu grease is great. This will also condition your rubber and make it supple and last for ever. There are many other products you can use just make sure its silicone grease and not lithium or petroleum as those will deform rubber and ruin your seals! Be careful!

This should immediately resolve any noises if you apply it thoroughly throughout the squeaky area. Now just do this every year or so as needed to maintain your rubber and eliminate creaking noises.

If you want a permanent solution, buy some very expensive Krytox GPL 205, NASA grade PTFE lubricant that will literally last for the life of your vehicle, it will never dry out.. but it is extremely expensive, also hard to clean off and messy so use very very little. For these reasons i prefer using Shin-etsu periodically, its more of a conditioner that soaks into the rubber.

Worth mentioning - if this doesn't work you could try putting some thick silicone grease or krytox (best option here) inside where your door & window seals connect to metal, meaning you'd have to gently peel the rubber seal off your door and apply some inside the crevice that attaches to metal before re-installing it. I would only do this for the noise affected area and not as general maintenance, the factory grease should already be sufficient. If it aint broke don't try and fix it.

In conclusion, do this first before tackling any leftover noises, especially before removing panels as this could introduce new noises. Maintaining your rubber seals doesn't require any disassembly, and should be done anyways.

My Two Cents,

 

Ill bet it is the 4 wheel drive shifter knob. You have to pry the cap off and remove the broken plastic pins that attached to the cap itself which have probably broken off and rattle inside the shifter knob. Then just lightly super glue it back on.

 

Did this. And applied pretty much every adhesive between the cap and the knob to avoid rattling. Still came back at lower rpm.
Only solution, buy a brand new transfer case knob. Thankfully they run cheap.