What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

Sorry for the delay, I'm at a school for the next ten days or so.

That's correct, use the washer that came with the Valvomax.

 

You've got me wondering... What is the flexible insert? I don't remember seeing or installing that.

Not related to your question, but something I had to look up when I installed mine- you need to take off the o-ring in order for a socket to fit over the adapter so you can torque it.

 

Here's a pic with the washer removed. The insert material is a rubber-like substance with some 3-D shape to it.

I was relieved that the O-ring came off, since I didn't want to guesstimate the torque.

 

I installed mine with the included washer. Almost 5k later and time for the next oil change.....no drips, not a one.

 

Phew. Mine had that washer.

 

$5.45 a Gallon? DAMN! The Kroger gas station near me is selling it for $3.39 (I think - It changes daily). But I got $1.25 off that price, thanks to my Kroger-food reward card. I remember the pump telling me it was $2.04 per gallon.

My tank was bone dry, so it took $41 to fill it up.

 

$41!?
My tank always has about 25% fuel before I fill in and it still costs me around $49 to completely fill till auto shut kicks. This is at a Shell bunk.

 

Put CaliRaised sliders on last night. Did not enjoy it. Primarily because my powered ratchet has walked away, but also because the very last 2 bolt holes of the whole thing didn't align. By quite a bit too. I did not have the grinding burr to handle that easily either. So what I feel could have been an hour project took about 2-1/2. Putting on the step plates was manual as I didn't have an allen "socket" that size. Suggestion for CaliRaised: moving the bolts just a hair towards the center of the slider would allow for a typical socket to fit on the underside. I bet I'm not the only user who doesn't have metric allen sockets. (I suppose I should get some...) (Although I did not try my 1/4" drive sockets...maybe that would have fit.)

The sliders themselves are nice and low profile. Just enough for a step, so I'm not crawling up into the seat now, wearing out the edge. I would guess the angled ones might not be useful as a step and getting the optional step plate on an angled set is likely a waste.

Another suggestion for CaliRaised is the instructions. With "universal fit" kits like this, with KDSS or not and it fitting many model years, it took me a while to figure out why I had so many extra bolts. There was nothing documented to explain, that I found anyway. And the install video is not as clear as it could be. It was just enough to get me through it but I feel he missed some critical info, like "ignore these brackets and bolts if you don't have KDSS."

 

i got those as well.. has been a bit over a year and no issues..

 

The interior molle panels look great! Thanks for supporting our business, please reach out if you need anything

 

The top shelf does not obstruct your view. If you have any more questions please let us know!

 

Picked up a new GMG Ledge Plus smoker.

gonna fire it up for the burn off at 5 pm.

 

I BROKE THE AC.

A WARNING TO ALL. If you install an aftermarket bumper/winch be very careful that there is sufficient clearance around your AC LNES and always shield them with rubber shielding even if you have clearance.

The AC Stopped working, it was because during wheeling the AC came in contact the winch and mounting plate and wore a hole in the AC line.
When I checked the line wasn't touching the winch when at rest but when the tech opened the hood they saw the abrasion and the dye finding the leak, matching up to the location where the issue was.

Its been installed for > 1 year, but it's a painfully expensive lesson.

Also Toyota Frame Weld Nuts suck, and I'm going to have to replace 5 of the ones holding my skid plates on because the tiny welds break off inside the frame and you end up cutting your skid plates off to remove them AND replacing them with a different kind of fastener.

 

I paid $114 CAD to fill, and the gas light wasn't even on.
F*ck me

 

Seen on FB today. I know it HAS to be someone in the forum. Speak up!

 

Hah
Nice

https://www.4runners.com/threads/4r...g-with-charlie™-5th-gen-edition.11023/page-20

 

That is a NICE smoker! I'll be over later.... haha

 

thank you! Im glad i chose this brand. I just followed the first time burn in instructions, and it worked flawlessly. Wi-Fi connected instantly, and it was within 1° of my thermoDot thermometer for accuracy in temps. I couldn’t be happier!

 

Plexi Dip? Or whatever that stuff is? You can also get them powder coated. Its very reasonably priced. I paid $50 for mine to get powder coated black. Just wanted to throw that out there as paint, dips just don't hold up. In general , powder coating is not that expensive.

 

could you elaborate a bit more on this. Which welds specifically came off? Do you use a torque wrench or power/air gun them?

 

I added these new Dryva throw covers on my seats to try out. Hook on the headrest and there is a strap goes around the seats to keep in place. Great for especially in the summer when you have sun screen on and don’t want it in my Pro seats. You can roll them up and put them in your doors. Doing the test they stay on the seat getting in and out and don’t move around. Water proof. So far I like they stay in place.

 

Attached are images of the part where the welds snapped.
these threaded nuts accept an M8 bolt.
They snapped when attempting to loosen the bolts to remove the skid plates.
Another one snapped with the OEM skid installer.
I’m not sure of how the original installer torqued them down.
I have torqued down some of the ones which snapped later during removal. In all cases removal was done with a hand ratchet. And the ones I put in were also hand installed.

I know the precautions to always chase the threads with a tap, use anti-seize, and ensure that the bolts aren’t cross threaded, it was just surprising to me the 4 tiny weld points used when attaching those nuts to the frame.

 

1.25" Spidertrax. Any suggestions on mud flaps that work well with a BMC?

 

At the shop getting 4.88 and Eaton locker. Those 37s are pretty tempting

 

@kojak
1.25" Spidertrax. Any suggestions on mud flaps that work well with a BMC?[/QUOTE]


I have rokblokz
BMC, SPCs, stock wheels, bp-51 n 285/70/17 KO2s
Minimal rubbing when in full turn reverse

I did however cut a hole n use heavy duty zip to hold “back the flap” inside for a lil more room

actually looking to sell due to new direction

EDIT
forgot the whole part bout spidertrax
Yes I have spacers

 

Made my first payment

 

FINALLY I got notification my driver side pillar bracket was shipped and is in Spokane(I day away, I hope). Contacted my neighbor to see if he can help me install it!

 

@kojak so in my experience I deleted the OE front mud flaps all together cuz they totally rub. But perhaps brands like rokbloks w/ tie straps could slip in there for rocker protection.
@scottiezilla don't suppose you live anywhere near British Columbia haha I wouldn't mind a small front mud flap solution. You don't have spidertrax spacers though eh, how come the BMC with that stock wheel setup