DD w/backlight OEMish switch

Already sorry for creating a thread n thanks in advance

But I’m trying to get a definitive answer
With all the research n studying I’ve done recently when it comes to electrical, feel like I’m “right there” but also getting lost

so the gist is-
Want total freedom when using the fogs, obviously backlight n main fog separate
But I have an aftermarket bumper, had to ditch stock fogs, n don’t want to wire to oem harness
Want my fogs totally independent

Would like to use something like this…


instead of…


…now the camera one from anytimebackup is SPDT

…the ch4x4 is DPDT

When I contacted Brian at anytimebackup he mentioned his switches have been used for this, plus the threads I’ve seen, but the issue was due to DD wiring n his switch not having matching outputs, inputs, pins, etc…it would work but the backlight for example would always be on when truck was on
Something to also deal with his style switch having an indicator light

reached out to DD as well
Jeff, by the way is a great rep over there, n he’s thrown out the idea of a dual-push button, which I’ve also read about

what are the pros n cons of the 3 way toggle VS the dual-push?

would rather use the
on-off-on style

there’s an aux-high beam thread over on “Tacomaworld” where people have talked bout possibly mating wires so the fog/backlight can be used only when desired n not just always backlit

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-sae-j581-aux-high-beam-thread.696597/page-24#post-26597752

so main final question is

has anyone here successfully used one of the anytimebackup or ch4x4 switches for DD’s with backlight?

SPDT vs DPDT for this situation n why?

terminology is what puts me in the grave
But I’m getting there
Excited to have this somewhat under my belt
Like to be confident in what I do

Truly appreciate any help

 

I'm not the most electrically savvy person but I have done a lot of research and I've successfully wired a few different lights. Since nobody else is responding, I figured I would chime in.

First, have you heard of the Brite Box anytime fogs? https://www.aspireautoaccessories.com/products/the-brite-box-toyota-4runner-2014-2020
This might be a solution to using your fog lights with the factory steering wheel stalk and to add a switch. But this does not solve the DD backlighting.

You could run a separate relay and trigger wire to a dual switch to run the backlighting. I actually replaced the Brite Box switch with an AOB switch but you could certainly go for something like this: https://caliraisedled.com/products/dual-function-toyota-oem-style-amber-white-switch-small-style
You can also find companies making custom logos for these. As an added benefit, it would allow you to run the backlight and main beam at the same time (probably not useful but it is an option).

Not sure what your wiring abilities are but this is one option if you are willing to put in a little work. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a plug and play solution.

 

Appreciate the feedback

have looked into those

pretty sure the backlight n actual fog can’t/shouldn’t run simultaneously

was trying to avoid the dual push buttons due to accidentally having both on…as above, not sure if that’s an issue

n I almost bought the britebox a couple years ago but when I realized I’d have to remove my stock fogs for the hefty bumper
It gave me the opportunity to run fogs independently which in my case is actually a plus
So instead of dropping the cash on the brite box(I need to check out Antmans old posts), I was going to wire my cyclones into the original oem fog harness or maybe the turn signal…not sure, may be too bright
I’ve gotten pretty familiar with wiring n most of the dos n donts
It’s just I’ve seen a handful of different answers to my question n was hoping for clear 100% this worked for me kinda deal

I’m probably overthinking it
Might just buy one of the 3 way switches n play round with it, a 9v battery, n my harness to see if I can manipulate the circuit

the fogs themselves are like 2.7amps
The backlights are .3 I believe

Thanks again PJ

 

Most automotive rocker switches (SPDT) can handle the current needed by your fog’s main and backlights. So why not just route 3 wires to the dash (+12V, Fog out and backlight out), no need for a relay (which you can later add if your load goes up beyond the switches current rating) and be done.

As you’ve noted, a rocker will prevent both backlight and mains from coming on simultaneously.

 

To be completely honest Photon
I dunno

in theory that totally works
I mentioned the idea of me rebuilding a wire harness from scratch n ditch the DD one

didn’t seem from either vendor that would resolve the issue

the issue being using the on/off/on style switch(I think 6 pins) with the already built DD harness with its 3 wires

I think the main thing being able utilize a indicator/illuminated switch n dimmer, with a harness not built for it

again
It just seems like people out there with far more understanding were also having an issue so I fear something as easy as a +12v, fog n backlight out’s is too good to be true

edit:
maybe has to do with the design of the switch I’d like to use

 

The DD harness sounds similar to the one that came with my SS5's and the instructions lay out two means of controlling the lights.


Using the DD switch you just use the "C" version of the diagram (switch pigtail should already be connected to the main harness). You can see the connector for the pigtail to harness in the background in this image.


There should also be a separate two-wire pigtail included with the kit (I'm assuming you did purchase an entire kit?) that connects into the main harness in lieu of the pigtail with the three position rocker.


Just connect the two wire pigtail to your switch of choice and route a +12V feed to the common terminal. You'd have to figure out which pin on the switch is what but that shouldn't be hard to do with an ohmmeter. If the +12V feed comes from a switched circuit that only comes on with ignition you're set and can also jumper that +12V to the switch's backlight.

 

Yup yup
Have all that stuff, looking at it now
So ditch the switched pigtail for the one that would usually goto stock fog orientation
Feeding it with power is easy enough, just concerned about the comment from Brian at anytimebackup in regards to the backlights always being on
Should be easy enough to figure out with switch in hand
Tap into dimmer/illumination similar to what most have done with rear wiper guy left of steering wheel

might run out to the truck n pull back that panel a lil, see if I can get a pic of the back of the anytime camera switch

might make all this easier…might, ha
(I probably have a pic in my album from everything I’ve done over the past few weeks)

 

Which is why you would supply +12V from a switched source (whatever circuit is tied to the Accessory/Ignition circuits) and not from an always on circuit (like directly to the battery.)

Rear Windshield Wiper, Instrument Panel Light Control, the 400W inverter switch...you have many options to tie the switch backlight into.

 

Hey @Photon_Chaser

sorry for taking awhile to thank you again n update

been wrapping up all my harnesses, fuse/relay panel, routing, etc…

but I’m down to the “final few”

So with all you’ve mentioned, my research, n thought process…lil hiccup with the fogs still

Pic shows the back of the pigtail that came with the AnytimeBackUpCamera
“HighLow” on-off-on I went with
…what each wire is
…diode on the 2 outputs

n yes I agree the switch would handle the current, at least the backlight
(I’d rather not worry at all)
ALSO, I have a relayed/fused circuit waiting for the fogs

so it seems to me that switch has
+/-/2 output/n then my issue, the “backlight +-“

Is that like me tapping into the dimming/illumination wires from the defroster for example?

would I have to use separate relay? Or let the switch handle the current? Can it just be ran through one relay together?(throwing it all out there…)

I know the +- for the switch will be ignition fuse n ground round my kick panel

something feels to simple…

also
Wouldn’t mind if the backlights would turn on via my steering stem for drls but not if that in turn disrupts the new switch

Read over n over how people used 2 SEPERATE switches however with the style switch I have, not the usual dual push buttons or aux/spod/etc panels, was wondering if you have any final input?

thanks again to all

EDIT
yes forgot to mention I have the heavy duty harness, 2 wire pigtail, the lights small deutsch pigtails
Complete deal

I’ve been chopping down all my harnesses that came with n making my own set up on a retrofitted Rago surge plate, firewall tunnel, etc

 

Sorry, I am totally not familiar with how the Anytime Backup Camera system works but that wiring call out does seem to indicate that the switch is an SPDT (Single Pole-Double Throw) type with the inclusion of the switch backlighting terminals. From what I see on the baggie's labeling this should work...(for good measure, someone please double check me on this!). Since the DD setup drives the lights from a relay switched high current source all of your internal wiring is low current, so....


Now what the diode(s) are for (your pic cut off the most important part!)...they could be for isolation purposes, reverse current protection...dont know.

All of this is predicated upon that you are using the rest of the DD harness which includes the main relay, fuse block, etc. and are only tying into that harness using the DD 2-wire pigtail to the Anytime Backup switch, yes?

 

Typical….haha sorry

yes SPDT

DD sent me a new harness as well
(Original was cursed…different time)

Your diagram schematic thingamajig is what I have been thinking of doing

But I’ve read so much on people having a hard time with using aux switches for the backlight function, DD n anytime camera(both super helpful) also had some concerns…

While dissecting the DD harness, I noticed the blue wire(backlight, never encounters the relay…just both lights, combined n twisted off in front of relay, n upto switch


the way my fuse/relay is setup for everything else thus far(nothing else has a second feature like backlight)

But switches powered/grounded under steering/dash

Trigger runs to relay

Fuse box powers n grounds relay

87(output) runs to terminal strip

accessories are coming back to terminal strip

Accessories ground are coming back to common bus(it’s close enough might as well keep it all together VS local)

but with the backlight, I’m assuming I could skip all that n run directly from light all the way to switch
Or I’m wondering if it’s beneficial/functional to have the blue wiring connected somehow in this whole circuit whether it be the terminal strip, relay, etc

I also have these sorry for the lap…

but like you mentioned @Photon_Chaser
I think I can skip the short pigtails, use the DD2s, cut certain things to length n solder

dont think the diode is for backpower, since it’s from one trigger to the other, not 2 separate

I don’t remember the camera switch to have one however I do know that in the FAQ/real life with using that camera set up, there is a lil “flicker”…when alternating between front n rear, it’ll flash the rear camera image
“Normal” n is due to the speed of the relay recognizing what’s happening essentially

 

so pending on how red/blue+ n black/grey- are connected determines the blue switch backlight or yellow indicators…

when my anytime camera is on front camera, both indicators are on, but just the front camera on screen…

im wondering if this diode/cutting of the high/low mode would determine if the main beam would run separate from backlight vs somehow the backlight “on” as well as main beam

 

so yup yup, cut that diode n it’s independent

but I still can’t fathom how to run the random blue(backlight) trigger down

less it’s literally just from switch to light

last harness I need to make till I open the back up for the scene lighting n rear power but that’ll be easy

also gotta decide on making my own beef cables for all this or windy nation/us battery cable

n between circuit breaker or terminal fuse

all kindsa fun……..