Sway Bar Correction after 3" lift

What do you guys recommend to correct the front sway bar position after a 3" lift.

I was looking at the Dobinsons Front sway bar relocation.
Are there any other options worth looking at?

Note: I've already corrected the rear sway bar geometry with MOOG K80296 extended links.
And yes I've already corrected the panhard bar mount location (BOTCK). Correcting sway bar position should be the last piece of the puzzle.

Edit: Posted the wrong part number for the rear sway bar endlinks here.^
ACDelco 45G0263 is what I used. Can confirm they bolt up and level the rear sway bar nicely.

 

Hey do you have KDSS?
Wow Moog Ext Links, and BOTCK
Nice

 

No KDSS. Sorry I should have mentioned that in this post

 

Anyone?

 

I tried searching for MOOG K80296, and it comes up as sway bar links for Mazda CX-5.

Im looking to replace mine too...with extended ones. Any info is appreciated.

 

Yup that’s my bad! I had those ordered but not installed at the time I made this post. Ended up being the wrong part.
Used ACDelco 45G0263 instead

 

These?

https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-4runner-swaybar-drop-bracket-kit/

https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-4runner-fj-gx460-swaybar-relocation-brackets-2010/

 

I just installed these 2 months back on the rear:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CA4G5M?ie=UTF8&language=en_US

 

Claims it doesn't fit my rig.

 

Might be because they are extended, so they don't fit on a stock 4Runner. The MOOG ones I purchased also say they don't fit, they do.

 

Thanks bro.

 

Relocation is typically to move the sway bar forward to clear upgraded coilovers. A front sway bar drop may cause the bar to hit some aftermarket skid plates, because they delete the braces connecting the front crossmember for additional ground clearance (but less room above). You'll want to cycle your suspension through its full range if you install a drop.

 

Yup that's my dilemma now. I have RCI skids so that brace is retained (the skid bolts up underneath it.)
If I were to drop the sway bar or move the sway bar forward it would likely contact that brace. After some research I've decided to leave the front sway bar alone for now.

The panhard bar correction kit made a big difference.

The rear sway bar correction made a small difference...
I suppose leaving the front sway bar alone won't be leaving too much on the table.

 

OME nitrocharger lift. The sway bar does not contact the coil.
The sway bar is less than an inch away from that radiator support bracket, so the relocation would cause the same issue you're describing.

My original interest was to "level" the sway bar the same way people do for the rears. Looks like the safest bet is to leave it alone at this point though.

I have no clearance issues now, so leveling the sway bar for a minimal performance increase might be a losing battle. Extended front sway bar links could risk tearing up CV boots. Relocation would risk contacting the radiator support bracket. Looks to be more trouble than it's worth.

 

^For a suspension lift in the front, you'd want a shorter sway bar end link. I'm not aware of anyone that advertises a drop-in shorter link.

 

@1SilverRunner I read through and absorbed every response above, great stuff - I want to ensure I don’t make foolish mistakes regarding 3” suspension lift angle corrections on my 4R. If you don’t mind me tapping into the minds here, I ask you and @3JOH22A @runnerjimmy @Rob41


do you guys have any wisdom you could quickly share for someone with KDSS who wants to correct the operation of any components that have been affected negatively by raising 3”/2” with lift springs on all four corners and 4x 5100’s?
(I also have a diff drop kit, and 4-piece arb skid plate kit)

 

^Are you having any issues with KDSS operation right now?

 

I have some clunking and some noises on washboard roads that I'm not sure the origin of. Could be UCA bushings and things, or could be swat bar contact and KDSS related things I've heard.
I've tried asking on here before, but if someone can tell me how to jack my truck up safely in my garage I want to test if anything hits. I want to test my full suspension up travel and droop (it's the up travel where I want to test my bump stops but not do something foolish with the jack and bust something knowmsayin)
But I've heard this still won't replicate "dynamic movement" of the suspension when driving..

If someone could not ignore that and explain the method of testing these things in your own garage with a floor jack, I would be forever grateful and love you long time

 

@djwantke
Has this noise been getting worse or has it always been there?

I'd imagine if it's a new noise you're dealing with a bushing of some kind. My clunk came from a worn UBJ. Had to jack up the rig and push on the wheel pretty hard. I could then see the amount of slop in my SPC UBJ. It would move about 2-3mm when would push the top of my wheel toward the engine. Woudn't have found it without jacking up the rig.

Ditched SPC, problem solved.

 

To jack up a wheel in the garage to the bumpstop requires removing the coilover.

You can try driving up a RTI ramp or loading ramp if your front- and rear suspension roll rates are about the same. However, if the front suspension is a lot stiffer than the rear, the rear tire will come off the ground before the front bumpstop contacts.

 

I'm not 100% sure if the sounds have been around since I lifted in summer 2021, because it's my wife and kids daily (low miles close to home) and we didn't take it offroad much.
But I really really noticed it just this last summer in 2023 while driving way out on fsr's, and a camping trip.
Every pothole and bumpy rock made a noticeable clunking, whereas the truck used to sound smooth and absorb that s***..

So I'm sure it was partially SPC grease zerk UBJs, but I've replaced those this year in my garage with new improved SPC sealed UBJs.

I haven't been on fsr's or off-road since swapping ball joints but I have driven over things and I'm not happy with how the truck sounds still which is why I think it's bushings or some kind of metal contact. But believe me the ball joints feel much much nicer even the wife thought it drove like a completely different truck - coming from a woman who hasn't noticed that I added a Pedal Commander or 1.25" Spidertrax LOL


@1SilverRunner yes, I am familiar with testing for bunk UBJ's unfortunately, but I'm one of the lucky ones mine legit lasted 3 years not 3 months.

 

^Experiment with removing these braces and going over the same bumpy terrain. They're pretty much the only things the KDSS drop links can hit:

 

Appreciate the insight! I didn't know a number of those things.

The reason I ask about testing bump stops, more specifically the travel needed to hit and compress them, is to know if my struts can bottom out on me. There's also a chance I've misread information and I'm not at risk for this. But I hear upgraded bump stops that are likely extended really do improve rides. I have given the 5100's a visual inspection - I don't see cracks or bending down near the lower mounting point.


I didn't know you could experiment with removal of those braces. Radiator crossmember supports or something like that? They're the rustiest damn thing on my truck lol

 

^Are you running a top plate spacer (i.e. between the strut hat and the frame bucket)?

 

No spacer, just 5100's on lowest spring perch groove and ome lift springs

 

^The front 5100 shocks are designed to work with the stock suspension. The compressed length is the same as stock, so stock bumpstops won't cause the shock stem to buckle. Upgraded bumpstops, like the ones I'm running, will cushion the ride a lot better when you bottom out, though.

These fit the front: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E1SUO2A/

 

That's right isn't it, now I get it, thanks for this dude

Energy is what I was hoping for since we're only talking moderate offroading at the moment.
Nice so they say they don't fit front but they do

Also, do you have any idea which Energy bump stops fit the REAR

 

^Energy doesn't make a rear set as far as I know. Try these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CQ3W78C8/

 

If sway is contacting these braces, it sounds like KDSS correction to lift them off and away could present contact with other areas as a result?
I'm assuming the braces shouldn't be removed long term perhaps in case of an accident?

 

Much appreciated as always

With 3" lift springs in the back, will my axle ever touch the factory bumps period?
To be honest I'm researching my specs at the same time as asking this, cuz I don't fully understand how suspension operates, I'm getting there.