5th Gen 4Runner Overland Build

I can't imagine camping in that unless you are a young guy. It does look good though! Good luck.

Kevin

 

Diesel Heater Fuel Tank Upgrade

After looking over my diesel heater setup and considering the frequency of its use, I came to several conclusions.

• I don't camp that much in temperatures below 32 deg F.
• Fuel consumption of 2kW diesel heater is minimal. 5kW consumes 0.11-0.51 (L/H), which is around 0.1 gal/hr.
• 2 gallon fuel tank for a diesel heater is an overkill unless you are consistently using the heater, and there is scarcity of diesel in the area.
• Water is more important than diesel fuel. The space that is taken up by 2 gallon fuel tank can instead be used for 5 gallon water container.
• The space that is freed up under the heater can be used for additional storage.

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This is what the overall setup looks like. I decided to go with mini bike fuel tank that was further modified to include a vent and fuel stand pipe.



The fuel stand pipe had to be installed through the cap and sealed with silicon.

I tested this setup for an hour to verify if the rate of fuel consumption given by the manufacturer is correct. The amount of fuel the heater consumed in an hour is marked by the painter's tape on the fuel tank. Even in the temperatures below 32 deg F, I never run this heater for more than 15 - 30 min. This leads me to conclude that the amount of fuel in the smaller fuel tank will last me for more than a week if I am doing cold weather camping.



I packed the space under the heater with miscellaneous items that were taking up valuable real-estate.



I also cut a hole in the sidewall to gain access to newly made storage space that was soon filled with hoses and other smaller items.



Another 5 gallon water canister took the place of old fuel tank. I ordered additional 5 gallon water canister to be used specifically for showers, which bumped up my total water carrying capacity to 15 gallons.

 

Shower Upgrade - Heat Exchanger Hot Shower

While surfing the web I discovered another approach to making a shower in an overlanding vehicle. This one was, by far, the best one I have seen. Being an on-demand hot shower system, it doesn't require you to warm up 5 gallons of water before you could take a shower as it was with the first system that I implemented in my setup.

Glind Heat Exchanger and Helton Hot Shower Kit are popular tubular heat exchangers that tap into your cooling system and use coolant as the source of heat. Below are a few examples of these setups:

• https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tundra-helton-hot-shower-kit.927631/
• http://norcalfjs.com/m/discussion?id=2131553:Topic:226611
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oc2A0uA3W2s

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After studying existing setups, I came up with the following approach. It uses already existing shut off valve to redirect the flow of water to the heat exchanger. One poster mentioned that 3GPM pump was cycling the water through the heat exchanger too quickly for it to heat up.

The system is (allegedly) rated for 3 GPM (max) so I picked up a SureFlo 12V, 3 GPM Aquaking pump. The thing cranks and gives great water pressure. The downside is that it appears to be cycling the water through the heat exchanger too quickly for it to heat up. (we do know the heat exchanger is working because the first bit of water to come through is very hot!) Next step is for me to exchange 3 GPM pump for a 1GPM.

http://norcalfjs.com/m/discussion?id=2131553:Topic:226611
Instead of installing a separate pump, I decided to place a flow regulator after the shut off valve to reduce the flow down to about 1GPM.

Thermostatic mixing valve adds a special touch to this system. It literally becomes a replica of the plumbing system that we are used to. The flow of cold water is redirected to the thermostatic mixing valve via 3 way brass fitting before it enters the heat exchanger. The hot water that comes out of the heat exchanger directly flows into the thermostatic mixing valve, where it is mixed with cold water.

Instead of going for tubular heat exchangers, I decided to use a flat plate heat exchanger instead. Duda Energy heat exchangers are available on Amazon for a fraction of the cost of the tubular ones. Here is a good example of a hot shower system using one of them.


Flat Plate Heat Exchangers


Unfortunately, heat exchanger that I ordered online came without detailed instructions, so I had to do some research before connecting it to my cooling system. The last thing that I wanted was to shoot a stream of tap water into my cooling system.

Where is the right inlet and outlet?

The inlet for cooling fluid is at the bottom and the outlet is at the top. For the hot fluid the inlet is at the top and the outlet is at the bottom.

Cold Fluid

• Inlet: Bottom
• Outlet: Top

Hot Fluid

• Inlet: Top
• Outlet: Bottom

What Size Should I Get & How Many Plates?

Duda Energy has a good article on this subject right here. The following is its summary.

• The more length the heat exchanger has, the more efficiency in heat transfer it has.
• The more plates and more width the heat exchanger has, the less pressure loss to the fluids flowing through.
• While adding more plates and width may increase some heat transfer, it is best to add more length for optimal heat transfer gain.
• More plates and width should be considered when flow rates reach half or more the max flow rate for the particular unit to avoid pressure loss in the fluid flow.
  • Pressure loss means a slower flowing liquid and therefore, less heat transfer overall.

Based on the information above, getting a heat exchanger with more plates means that the pressure of the fluid flowing through would be reduced without substantial increase in heat transfer.

Will pressure drop affect the cooling system?


I think this is a good question to ask, considering that flat heat exchangers with lower number of plates will reduce the pressure of the fluid flowing through them. Glind states that their heat exchanger has to be installed on the main heater feed line. Considering that the heater core is the the only place that will be affected by slight reduction in pressure, this question becomes irrelevant.

Where is Heater Feed Hose on the 5th Gen 4Runner?

The hose that is on the top takes coolant into the engine and out from the heater core via the top metal tube, and the hose at the bottom takes coolant from the engine (from the water pump) into the heater core via the bottom metal tube. https://i.postimg.cc/1zKVd6V5/heat-exchanger-hot-shower-05.png
PartSouq and other sources point out that the bottom hose is the main heater feed line.

• Top: Out (Heater Core > Engine)
• Bottom: In (Engine > Heater Core)

What Size is 5th Gen 4Runner's Heater Hose?

Heater hoses sold on RockAuto for 5th gen 4Runners are all 5/8" ID.

What Types of Clamps Should I use on Heater Hoses?

It seems like heater hoses require spring band type action hose clamps. I have repurposed the ones that were left over from the stock hose and used a regular hose clamps on the heat exchanger's inlet and outlet. I may eventually replace them when I get my hands on 5/8 in spring band clamps.

What is the Temperature Rating of the Hoses?

This is a good question to ask because there is one point in the system where the temperature is above the temperature range of the vinyl tubing used for water. If normal coolant temperature is 195 to 220 deg F, the temperature of the heat exchanger and the water exiting the heat exchanger will be about the same. Temperature range of vinyl tubing is 23°F to 149°F. I think it is a big mistake to install this type of tubing on inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger. I decided to buy 3/8" heater hose rated at -40 Deg. F to +257 Deg. F, to be on a safe side. The tubing that goes out of the thermostatic valve, in my setup, is braided vinyl tubing.

***​

Putting It All Together



The easiest way I found to mount the heat exchanger to the body of the car was with a piece of plywood and several sheet metal screws. The heat exchanger already comes with two mounting points in the back that allow you to attach it to something flat, which made the process a lot easier.



Thermostatic mixing valve is another component of the system that needs to be attached somewhere. I made a vertical wall out of another piece of plywood and attached the mixing valve to it with several zip ties. The vertical wall is attached to the body of the car with two corner braces that are secured with small bolts to the wheel well.

The main heater hose is split into two segments, as shown above. I had to remove the distal part entirely and replace it with 5/8" hose that I got from Amazon. The proximal part circulates coolant from the engine into the heat exchanger, and from the heat exchanger the coolant flows back into the heater core through another DIY segment of 5/8" hose.


Routing Water Lines



Another challenging part of this setup is routing water lines. Vinyl tubing has to be routed from the interior where the water pump is located to the engine bay and back.



At the water pump the flow of water is redirected towards the heat exchanger with a shut off valve.



The tubing is then routed towards the front of the vehicle along the bottom. Another shut off valve is installed to reduce the flow of water from 3GPM to 1GPM.



I drilled a hole in the bed of the car to route the tubing to the exterior of the vehicle. Exterior hole that was covered with a rubber cap already existed in the frame of the car. I just drilled it all the way through a hole saw drill bit.



The hole was then filled with caulk.



The tubing was covered with 1" wire wrap from Home Depot.



Through the wheel well opening the tubing is routed in to the engine bay. I secured water inlet and outlet hoses with zip ties to make the process easier.


Attachments



The outlet hose that carries hot water from the thermostatic valve terminates close to the water pump. This allows me to attach an extension hose to it with quick connect attachments. I can then connect various attachments to the main hose. The spray nozzle has its own shut off valve to control the flow of water. I have it preset where I like it, so it makes the process so much easier.



This attachment is made out of a flexible cooling hose. The cooling hose already comes with a shut off valve that regulates the flow. All I had to do was attach vinyl tubing to it. Now I can wash my hands with warm water anywhere I am.

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Afterthoughts

What concerns me with this setup is that once the temperature falls below 32 deg F, the water tubing will have to be winterized with food grade glycerin. The previous setup that I had didn't have these problems. The tubing wasn't too long and it was inside of the vehicle.

I live and travel mostly in the Southern part of the US, but if it so happens that I will be visiting places at higher elevations, where temperatures fall below 32 deg F, the complexity of this system will not allow me to adapt to temporary climatic conditions.

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Parts

WATER

Tubing (Currently Used in the Water System!)

3/8" ID x 25 Ft High Pressure Braided Clear PVC Vinyl Tubing
Joywayus 3/8" Barb Fitting 2 Way Union Brass Shut Off Valve (Pack of 2)
Joywayus 3/8" Hose Barb Fitting

Thermostatic Mixing Valve

Thermostatic Mixing Valve，Shower Mixing Valve with 1/2 NPT Male Connections
Joywayus Straight 3/8" Hose ID x 1/2" NPT Female Brass Barb Fitting Adapter

COOLANT

Tubing

Gates 28491 Safety Stripe Standard Straight Heater Hose-6' Length, Inner Diameter 5/8"

Heat Exchanger

Duda Energy HX1220:F12 B3-12A 20 Plate Stainless Steel Heat Exchanger with 1/2" Female NPT Ports
Joywayus Brass Hose Barb Fitting 5/8" Barb x 1/2" NPT Male (5 Pack)
U.S. Solid Brass Hose Barb Fitting, Adapter, 3/8" Barb x 1/2" NPT Male

Hose

Eden 93218 Garden Connect with Shutoff Valve (3 Sets/ 9 Pc)
3/8" Barb x 3/4" Male Hose
3/8" Barb x 3/4" Female Hose

Nozzle Attachment (Quick Connect) Orbit 3/4 in. Threaded Brass Shut-Off Coupling

Washer Attachment (Quick Connect)

Joywayus 1/4PT Thread Flexible Coolant Pipe

 

Installing Eye Bolts for Attachment Points

Up to this day I have been using paracord loops for ceiling attachment points. Not so long ago I came across a post that accomplished the same thing with M6 eye bolts. I liked this setup much more than what I had, and decided to it a go.

 

Aftermarket TPMS and Rubber Valve Stems

Stock TPMS on 5th gen 4Runners is practically useless. I disabled TPMS about a year ago and was considering getting aftermarket TPMS sensors installed instead. During my last tire rotation I noticed that one of the stock TPMS sensors fell off completely and was rolling around in the tire. The only thing that remained in place was a metal valve stem.



I like serviceable parts that can be replace on the road. Replacing metal valve stems in the bush seemed a little impractical to me, so I decided to remove them completely and replace with old-school TR 413 rubber valve stems. I packed 4 spares to take with me on long trips along with spare lug nuts and wheel studs.





Breaking and setting the bead on the tire was a piece of cake with the right tools. I used 4x6 and stock jack to break the bead, and a ratchet strap to set the bead. The whole process of removing old valve stems and installing new ones took me less than 10 min per tire. At first I was considering to get a fancy Quick Valve Change Tool, but then quickly changed my mind.



On my last trip one of my tires was punctured by a shard. Since I had TPMS turned off, I didn't notice that I was driving on a flat tire until it was too late. Even thought I was able to plug the hole, a bulge on the tire's sidewall made the tire useless for travel. To prevent similar situations from happening in the future, I installed aftermarket TPMS that has fast air leak alarm.

 

Oil Catch Can Install



While diagnosing intermittent crank and no start condition, I looked over almost every system in the car. While cleaning fuel injectors I noticed how dirty the ends were. Intake valves, most definitely, have never been cleaned. I decided to install oil catch can as a preventative measure, for now. I may consider doing intake Seafoam treatment in the near future.

 

Hidden Winch Mount Modification

Last June I was attempting to cross one of the passes in Idaho. Due to heavy snowfall that year, the snow still didn't melt at higher elevations and the pass was impassable. Getting tired of doing frequent detours, I attempted to cross and found myself stuck in the snow. Several months before the trip I installed Superwinch Tiger Shark 9500SR 12V Synthetic Rope Winch and decided to try to winch myself out. The closest tree that would allow me a straight pull out of the snow was as far as the length of the line. I decided to unwind the line entirely and give it a go without using a snatch block.

After several unsuccessful winching attempts, the winch slid down the winch mount. I stopped and used other methods to recover the vehicle. After successful recovery using shovel and traction boards I sat down and began to analyze the situation. What happened?

The winch was attached to LDF Offroad Adjustable Hidden Winch Mount with 35 ft/lbs of torque, as was suggested by several sources (1 and 2). The car weights around 5,500 lbs when fully loaded. I had a remote control and controlled winching out of the vehicle.



The bolts were located in the middle of slotted holes, secured by oversized washers. When installing the winch I noticed that oversized washers prevented the bolts from sinking in the slotted holes. The slotted holes were so large that the bolt heads would sink in when tightened at 35 ft/lbs. During the pull, as more pressure was applied onto the washers by the bolts, they bent inwards, which created a concave surface that subsequently slid down the slotted hole.

Research

I wasn't sure what to do about this issue and decided to ask for advice from members of . This is the summary of the entire post.

• Weld 1/4" plate under the slots with the hole in the right location
• If the bolts are not threaded into the body of the winch (not through bolts), upgrading to higher tensile bolts and then upping the torque.
• Use heavy duty washers.
• Use a lock washer as well.
• Use loctite to make sure the bolts don’t rattle loose

Getting to Work



Slotted holes were covered with 1/4" steel plates under the slots.



Steel plates were welded to the mount and holes for the winch were drilled in the right location.



The bolts were already high tensile bolts (M10 x 1.5, Class 10.9). After doing some research on the highest torque I could use on these bolts, I torqued them to 64 ft/lbs. To make installation stronger I used heavy duty washers, along with lock washers, and blue loctite were used as was suggested.

I feel much more confident with this setup.

 

Hitting a Deer

During my last interstate travel I had to drive at night time. Daylight hours are very limited during winter time, which makes it difficult to follow not to drive at night time. As I was going at normal interstate speed, two small deer were crossing the road. The next thing I know, I see one right in front of the car that is going at 60 - 70 mph. I had to make a decision in a matter of a few seconds. Should I swerve? Should I take the shoulder? I knew that stepping with force on the breaks at such speeds on a two lane highway was not the best idea as well. I tried to slow down the best I could, while keeping the car straight and soon found out it wasn't enough to the prevent collision. One of the recovery points on the hidden winch mount hit the deer, who didn't even see the car coming until the impact happened. He looked at me, barely maintaining balance, and fell to the ground.

Man... was I not prepared for this. I took out leather work gloves and dragged the body off the road. It was time to look for a campsite.

***​

Aside from mental damage that this situation has caused, it also did some damage to the bumper and fog light on the lefts side of the car. Plastic fog light mount was destroyed completely, and the whole assembly had to be secured with a brass wire. A chunk of bumper fell out entirely and had to be glued back in place using J-B Weld plastic bonder epoxy and drywall joint tape as described in the following video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po6PIpYdfW8

At this point I can say that driving at night is on my taboo list.

 

Wow! A trove of excellent and useful info, thank you for sharing. I'm curious...given the challenges of rust on the frame and body, what mitigation did you take, especially with the additional drilling and access holes required? I've started an annual fluid-film application regimen to keep things rust-free as best I can. Safe travels and enjoy the journey!

 

I have tried many ways. I described my experience in Undercarriage restoration post.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/un...-on-5th-gen-toyota-4runner.36498/#post-546659

I am still looking for the best way to take care of the undercarriage. Fluid film dried out and solidified over summer time. It is a layer of dust and dirt now.

Other members of the forum gave some good advice in that post.