Wire cable disconnected ?

Can anyone please tell me what this cable is and if it's supposed to be connected to a ground or someplace. There is one on each side of the engine that isn't connected after doing extensive work on my engine

 

How much extra nuts and bolts you have?

But seriously can you take like a step back so we can see where in the bay this is.

 

Ah, so you finally dropped in a used engine after running over that metal chair?

Are you talking about the hose with a chrome cap on it? That's a breather for either your front diff or transmission.

 

Thanx. Ya it just has a little metal cap. I dismantled my engine and had the crank polished and got new rod bearings my pistons and cylinders were ok but I installed a new ring set and I had the heads milled and valves ground with the gaskets and parts and machine shop work I'm at about 1400$ it's labor intensive. You just have to be very patient and take you're time being thorough and double check everything. My issue now is when I start it. It runs for three seconds and shuts off my obd reader says all six coils for ignition are not working. I clear the codes. It starts again for three seconds. The codes come back everytime

 

A friend of mine suggested that the anti theft imobilizer will cut power to the sparkplugs after 3 seconds. Is that true. I've got a new banjo bolt for the hard oil line tube coming in the mail today I cross threaded one on the lower side going into the head I re tapped it. 16mmx1.5. I thought it was tight but just cranking my engine snf it running forthree seconds I lost a whole quart of oil on the garage floor I think today's the day though that she runs. I think after installing the battery again you have to close all the doors and press the lock and un lock buttons a couple times. That cooler line is behind the alternator. I can't tell you how many times I disconnected the battery to take that alternator out to mess with a cross threaded banjo bolt. I blew the 140 amp fuse too after dropping a wrench on the lead wire of alternator that fuse is bolted in from the bottom and you have to dismantle the fuse box. It's tricky to say the least

 

I don't recall reading anywhere what it is that you're working on. There are some subtle differences in electronics year to year in the Gen 5s, no? I think some more information would be good if you want to have someone chime in with ideas. Sounds to me like you have an electrical issue.

 

Let me tell you one more time that plastic oil pump suction tube will cause you big headaches it you're engine overheated enough. Plugged up the oil cooler. The pump itself clogged up the filter restricting oil flow and little pieces of plasicplug up other things. I had no idea that it could break off and melt like that and come through the engine

 

The guy who said take a step back to see a better shot of that tube with the metal cap. I realize from another post who replied that it's a breather tube and I had to fill it up with my hand and hold it there to get a pic. You can't see it in its natural location.

 

Supposed to say hold it up with hand not fill

 

By the way. I'm not a mechanic. I just can't afford to pay someone 120$ per hour to work on my truck. I was a few thousand miles over warranty. I had three years of auto shop in highschool but that was 1982-84. It's a whole different thing now with all the electronic stuff. I learned a great deal about this engine and at least I know now about a dual overhead cam engine. It's was a learning experience to say the least and I'm better for it now

 

Well never mind. Seems like you've got it under control with that 3 years of auto shop in the 80s.

 

Hey. At least I'm trying. I know a lot of people who wouldn't tear that engine down. It's complicated. At least for me. I'm just a carpenter. I'll know today if it will run

 

It could be the fetzer valve, or maybe the bypass line. Probably the bypass line. I'd check those.

 

I asked a simple question. You are having a problem keeping it running. Sounds electrical to me. Kudos for trying, but you post here asking for help, yet fail to provide even basic information. I can assume it's a 5th gen, but what year, etc. I've torn several engines down, and if they don't run after rebuild, 95% of the time it's an electrical issue. Just trying to help.

 

By the way. I don't have everything under control. I know the basics of an engine. It's all this electronic stuff that is very confusing. Just because an obd reader tells you if s code doesn't mean you can put a new part in and reset the code. You need to learn why the problem occured in the first place and threw the code. I don't have all the answers. I'm just an average guy. But one who often tries things that most don't. Im just a carpenter. Can't blame me for trying. No I don't have all answers. I'm always willing to learn new things. That's what life's about. At least for me

 

Dude, we're done here.

 

Ok. I can be a little defensive I grew up the youngest of five boys. Sorry. Ok it's a 2020 4.0. When I push the start button. It runs for three seconds. Then shuts down. It sounds good for those seconds but cuts off a friend says it could be the imobilizer anti theft. That's cutting power to the ignition coils. The obd reader says all six cylinders have bad coils. I've got the altinator out now because I'm installing a new banjo bolt for the hard oil line. I'm getting one in mail today then I'll install everything and try it again this afternoon. But any advise you can give me regarding that code with the bad coils. I will be great full for. Can the anti theft imobilizer do that. I appreciate any advice. And again I'm sorry if I get a little defensive sometimes. It's just part of my personality

 

I also have codes for cam position sensors. Bank 1 and 2 both A. So I switched them from front to back and same thing. Both codes say A that tells me that it's not the sensors themselves if course but then why the codes. I'm 100%positive that the timing chain is set good. I used a dial indicator on piston #1 and all chain links lined up with colors. I even marked everything with red nail polish before I disassembled. I didn't want to tear that cover off 2x. You know it's a bitch. But any advise I will always listen too

 

Man, you really need to backtrack on this. I had no idea of the initial cause of all the problems until I did a little more research. Re-read through this.>https://www.4runners.com/threads/need-4-color-wire-diagram-for-6-cylinder-on-2020.35179/. After you get it back together in a state that you can start it without oil leaking, I'm afraid you're going to have to do some electrical tracing. Seems like you either have wires that got cut, bad connections, or something else electrical going on. At this point, and I hate to say it, but you've monkeyed with so many things, it's going to be really hard to diagnose.

 

Thanks. I still have some brackets to install. This afternoon I'm getting that banjo bolt in the mail and a 140 anp fuse. I will try to see if the alarm imobilizer is my problem with the ignition coils being shut down by the ECU. ??? I just don't know yet but I will later today. I have the 2020 runner with 4.0 1GR

 

I know man. I ripped a couple of plastic connectors off. Then had to solder them back. It's frustrating. It's not like the old days when you got one spark plug wire and distributor. Every plug wire has 4 wires and there all different colors from cylinder to cylinder. It's a mess. But I'm going to get it all ready to try again. I can only tell you that the banjo bolt behind the altinator and steering pump are a bitch if you ever cross threaded them. It's difficult to see them. And you think they are tight down. Then you crank the engine over to realize you got oil all over the ground. Then you got to remove everything and tap the threads it's a m- fer.

 

^If the immobilizer isn't disarmed, you shouldn't be able to even crank the engine. Therefore I don't think the immobilizer is the issue. If you are getting cam sensor codes (either sensor or circuit codes), the ignition timing will be all over the place and the engine probably won't run. Address the cam sensor codes first.

 

It’s definitely not like the old days. That said, even on old cars you could screw things up if you didn’t know what you needed to know. I remember back when I was a kid a friend (seriously, it wasn’t me, I swear lol) wanted to do a tune-up. He took out the spark plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor and threw them all on the ground. All of this was done quickly without much thought. He had a pile of new parts ready to go, and THEN realized he’d have to figure out timing and which plug goes to which wire, without knowing how exactly to do that. What was a simple job was made 20x more difficult. Probably because he wanted to proven something to his buddies watching him work. But that’s how we live and learn.

It’s pretty clear you have skills, and definitely some motivation. Don’t make the goal finishing today. You can only do that if you’re already proficient at everything involved to finish this. But you’re not, because hardly anybody is. Especially with this engine which is rarely torn apart by anyone.

There are so many potential causes to the various problems you are having. You’ve changed dimensions of the head, you’ve got the potential for bad soldering repairs, possible damage to connectors from getting yanked out, and it seems like you don’t have access to all of the factory repair procedures. Also, is it possible you did damage to the factory harnesses while tearing down the engine?

Seriously step back and figure out a game plan. Do you have insurance? Call them and ask what you need to file a claim. You won’t know if it’s too late unless you ask!

If insurance is not an option, then you will need to slow waaaaay down, go back to the very basics. Study each step of what you’ve done…all the way back to the beginning. Figure out factory procedures for each step and verify they were correct. When you get to your electrical soldering repairs, verify the wiring, and the soldering. This will not be a race.

 

I'll say one thing to the younger folks who frequent this sight. As much as I hate all this electronic BS on the vehicles today and as much as I hate big brother and government control. I can say one thing about the emissions controls the government has initiated. It's better than the smog we grew up with in the 70s and eighties. You go out for PE and you're lungs would burn and eyes too. You could stand 5 miles in front of the mountains in so cal. And couldn't see them. Only purple hayes. It was bad

 

Hey thanks for all you're advise. I'll take it slowly and be thorough. I appreciate you're comments. I'm just getting impatient. It's been like 7 weeks now. I need my truck. I've been borrowing a friend's vehicle. But he didn't even have a radio in it. I've got almost 6000wats of music. Although I disconnected my 2 rear batteries in the cargo area so it wouldn't be a factor. Music is a big part of my life. I need to get my 4 runner going so I can get my fix. I can't play my home stereo 25% without neighbors getting upset. My friends can see it's affecting me not having my truck and times going. But I'll stick it out and get it right

 

I have 2020 trd pro GRI 4.0 army green

 

Sorry I posted same pics 3x. I'm not very tech savvy as you can see I rolled. 4x now in my life. I rolled this truck with only 20k in it. I got it in a deal when it only had 5k in it and as part of a deal for a piece of property. Therefore I didn't have full coverage like you would if it were financed. It was a bummer but someone with a winch flipped me back up and off I went. Had to replace windshield and three other windows but hey. Life went on

 

That roof rack I got at pick a part for 60$. The factory one was torn off and it's still good except for the plastic mounting feet and can't find them on line anywhere

 

One day I'm taking my truck down to my cousins body shop and I will replace the plastics and do body work and he will spray it for me. He's a talented guy. Been in business for 40 years one day it will be back to near show condition but the engine comes first. I'll get it eventually with help from this web sight. Thanks for any advise that is given here. I really appreciate it. I wish I had access to sites like this growing up but the Internet didn't exist unfortunately