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Easiest Strut Replacement Method with KDSS

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Dusty45701, Jan 4, 2024.

  1. Jan 4, 2024 at 2:57 PM
    #1
    Dusty45701

    Dusty45701 [OP] New Member

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    Hi guys, I’m new to the forum and new to owning a 4Runner. I only have 6000 miles on my vehicle, but I dislike the stock suspension and plan to do some off-roading and over landing so it’s getting Bilstein 6112 in the front, 5160s in the back, new Bilstein coils all around, as well as Bilstein upper control arms.

    So my question specifically has to do with disconnecting the front sway bar from the lower control arm. I thought I remember reading about not being able to do that easily but I can’t find that info again. Is there an easier way than disconnecting the front tie rod? It seems like the only other option to have room here. Thoughts? Thank you!
     
  2. Jan 5, 2024 at 10:50 PM
    #2
    Dusty45701

    Dusty45701 [OP] New Member

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    Really? No one wrench on there machines on here?
     
  3. Jan 6, 2024 at 4:35 AM
    #3
    Yobruhitsme

    Yobruhitsme New Member

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    Hit up YouTube.. have seen videos dealing with kdss
     
  4. Jan 6, 2024 at 5:35 AM
    #4
    Dusty45701

    Dusty45701 [OP] New Member

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    I’ll take that as a no lol
     
  5. Jan 6, 2024 at 5:39 AM
    #5
    Wren

    Wren New Member

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    I just did my rear springs without disconnecting the sway but didn’t want to deal with the front so I had a shop do it.
     
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  6. Jan 8, 2024 at 2:59 PM
    #6
    Dusty45701

    Dusty45701 [OP] New Member

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    Ok I got it done. Easiest way for all you Kdss owners to do the front struts is to take everything apart as the non KDSS 4runner, leave the tie rods attached but I remove the upper control arms since I was replacing them too. This gave me enough room to pull out the strut and get the new one in.
    If you were not replacing the UCAs I would probably just disconnect the tie rod. Use a clamp style puller, not a fork or you will tear the boot. If the tie rod spins when you go to tighten the tie rod bolt, put a jack under the tie rod and jack it up for some tension. It should hold still for you.
    For whatever reason the sway bar was a bit in the way for the passenger side and did not allow for as much clearance as the drivers side (done first) so I put a jack on the sway bar mount where it is attached to the frame on that side and dropped it down a bit to gain clearance. I know it can be a pain to disconnect the sway bar from the control arm so that's why I did it that way and it worked out great. Took me pretty much all day with help to do it but I was able to get it back together in one day. I'm not a mechanic but not afraid to work on things so your time may vary.

    20240108_165214.jpg
     
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  7. Jan 8, 2024 at 3:05 PM
    #7
    Dusty45701

    Dusty45701 [OP] New Member

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    Oh, that time included removing the strut mounts from my old struts because the Bilstein 6112s don't come with it and compressing the new springs and attaching them to the new struts. This was more of a pain than I anticipated and help was much appreciated to have someone hold everything while tightening the spring compressors. Be patient here, you need to do this by hand because it is too dangerous with an impact wrench.
     
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  8. Jan 9, 2024 at 8:35 AM
    #8
    doublewide

    doublewide ShittCo

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    Sorry, I'm late to your party but, no, I didnt remove the sway bar when changing out my stock squishy bits.
     
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  9. Jan 12, 2024 at 3:57 PM
    #9
    TrailSpecial22

    TrailSpecial22 New Member

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    awesome! I just loosened up my LCA bolts and dropped it out bottom. Easy peasy.
    How do you like those Bilstein UCAs?
     
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  10. Jan 12, 2024 at 10:52 PM
    #10
    Dusty45701

    Dusty45701 [OP] New Member

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    I’m not sure yet, I was replacing the rear but Summit Racing sent me 2 shocks for the drivers’ side so I’m waiting. I will also probably let her sit in the garage for a week to settle a bit before I get an alignment and I’ll let you know.
     
  11. Jan 13, 2024 at 4:17 AM
    #11
    TrailSpecial22

    TrailSpecial22 New Member

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    shocks fit on either side, theres no fixed left or right. Driving it around helps it settle faster
     
  12. Jan 13, 2024 at 7:10 AM
    #12
    elpeyote

    elpeyote New Member

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    Post some pics of your ride when everything is done
     
  13. Jan 13, 2024 at 7:41 AM
    #13
    Dusty45701

    Dusty45701 [OP] New Member

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    The rear are not, or maybe it is just the 5160s but they are side specific.
     
  14. Jan 13, 2024 at 8:21 AM
    #14
    djwantke

    djwantke New Member

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    Bought brand new 2016 After May 2021: -Approx 3" lift/level: Bilstein 5100's, OME 2884 590lb 3" front lift springs, SPC UCA's, ICON 158506 2" lift rear coils, diff drop -Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ LT285/70R17 Load E -Mickey Thompson Sidebiter ll 17x9, 0 offset, 5 backspace -Pro Comp black spline lugs ^installed by 4WheelParts^ -New brakes and rotors by brake shop -4-piece ARB skid kit -Smittybilt 2" nerf steps -MBRP black exhaust tip, chopped OEM -Drivers side OEM FJ oh shit handle -All blacked out emblems -Blacked out roof rails -4x WeatherTech window rain guards -OEM custom rear mud flap deletes -KICK BACK MUD FLAPS 12" WIDE - BLACK TOP AND BLACK WEIGHT -FRAM EXTRA GUARD CA10835 engine air filter -1797 LED tricolor fog bulbs Yellow 3000K White 6000K Blue 15000K 28W 4000LM -Armour paint lower rear bumper -Front bumper high stage high clearance cut -Fenders cut straight across, pink reservoir sprayed black -4Runner Lifestyle sequential fog fangs -4Runner Lifestyle smoked taillight decals -Pedal Commander -Rear passenger cargo mounted 120v truck tire pump -4x Spidertrax 1.25" black aluminum wheel spacers -Yota Twins Paracord Hatch Strap sand camo -Teton Workshop hard anodized matte black aluminum shift knob -Ditch flood lights 4 LED 20w 1400lm w/ OEM hood mounts on OEM style dash switch -Backup flood lights under bumper 6 LED 18w 1500lm on OEM style dash switch -Body Mount Chop; cut, weld, paint -Fender mount chop, re-weld, paint -Fender Liner cut behind wheel (I cut liner in front of wheel clean off at top of viper cut) -Wheel well firewall hammering, painting ^done by Arc One Industries^ -valance cap trim -Agency6 Black Shackle Block 2" US Certified 6061 T6 CNC machined aluminum -DRT fab universal hitch skid -ACDelco inner tie rods, outer tie rods, bellows -Full Dr. KDSS switch kit -March 31 Behind grille 13-1/4" 32 LED light bar + wide-angle, eagle-eye lens 6000lm on OEM style dash switch -RAA Powder coated steel roof rack cargo basket, 1" side rails, 64" x 39" x 6", 250lb limit -roof gas can, water can, shovel -PEAKTOW PTT0063 Hitch Mount Cargo Carrier 51-1/2 x 17-1/2 x 4 inches 500 lbs. Capacity (trips only) -July/2023: purchased first needed SPC balljoint replacement kit - newly released, upgraded non-zerk sealed joints 25002 -July 15/2023: The Original Universal EZ Flares, 1". All four corners -Dec. 2023: removed bumper cover and crash bar, drilled frame, installed Apex Overland KDSS Recovery Points -Jan. 2024: SPC balljoint replacement kit - upgraded non-zerk sealed joint design 25002 -Feb. 3/ 2024: 4x KC Wire Hiders, for roof rack lighting Feb. 13/2024: New ditch lights, on new Rago Fabrication Extension brackets. 3inch Quad Row Amber Pods from LED-Club. 32W 3200Lm 16-LED Spot Beam. Replacing 3inch EVERGEAR clear lens ditch light pods w/ yellow lamix-x In progress: 4th, 5th, and 6th set of off road lights Electrical components and wiring purchased, not started -roof rack scene lighting - EVERGEAR ea. 1,350 lumens, 30w, 3-¾" round floods. Custom, side mounted w/ galvanized flat bar And -roof rack upper ditch lights - 3inch Quad Row Amber Pods from LED-Club. 32W 3200Lm 16-LED Spot Beam. Bar clamp mounted to front corners And -roof rack reverse amber pods / secondary hazard lights. 20W 2000Lm 2-LED Spot Beam. Bar clamp mounted to rear side And -roof rack F1 smoked chase light w/ lighting effects. Custom bolted to rear side -POR15 rust proofing line-up, 3-step process PAUSED until 70⁰ weather Bought, in the garage queue: -BlueFire 6-Circuit Fuse Block with LED Indicator & Protection Cover -Blue Sea Systems 100A Circuit Breaker w/ reset lever -Rust prevention •New can POR15, 2x Black Fluid Film, long spray nozzle attachments, 2x PB Surface Shield, 1x Chainwax •partially used POR15 Degreaser, Metal Prep Wanted - PerryParts or Wheelers bump stops, self fabricated limb risers (seasonal, removable), 1" body lift, powder coated center winch bumper w/ large bar (got no tss), rear steel bumper w/ tire carrier for an LT285 Kumho on steely, sliders, bolt on cat shields
    OP @Dusty45701
    Impressive work, nice to see another non mechanic get er done. Sadly I really never had any automotive folks in my family, so posts like this (I also have KDSS) really help me build my knowledge. I have an SPC new improved sealed balljoint replacement kit waiting in the queue, got the hammer got the separator tool, just need the balls to send it haha
    There's certainly many skilled wrenchers here, I think it's just easy for posts like yours to get buried in the list before a reply comes in.
    Watching Thread
     
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  15. Jan 13, 2024 at 11:14 AM
    #15
    TrailSpecial22

    TrailSpecial22 New Member

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    i missed the 5160 part. :facepalm:
     
  16. Jan 13, 2024 at 11:17 AM
    #16
    TrailSpecial22

    TrailSpecial22 New Member

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    did those UCAs come with a cap to protect the top of the ball joint from debris where the grease fitting is?
     

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