Throttle position sensor adjustment on rebuilt 22RE motor

Hello all this is the first time I've ever been on a forum or made a post like this but I'm reaching out to anyone out there who might have some info for me on the throttle position sensor on 22RE motor I had a rebuilt motor put in I should say I put in a rebuilt motor and it's been a long haul but I still can't get it to run right and it really with everything that I've researched appears to be and I think is throttle position sensor which is new and replaced but I don't think it's adjusted correctly any tips and advice that could be given please hit me up I'd appreciate it

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckv0cQbF9fw

 

Just what year are you working on?? I see a 1987 Some years the TPS can not be adjusted.

Your original engine harness and ecu are being used?

 

Another thing to consider is throttle butterfly shaft slop. On my 22re the throttle body shaft bores are getting sloppy and it is a balancing act to find the sweet spot to make the TPS happy. I know the body shaft bores can be drilled out and new bushings pressed in, coming soon for me.
https://lcengineering.com/throttle-position-sensor-adjustment/

 

The original wiring harness and everything for the most part is original the one main issue I'm having that is causing me to not be able to get anything accomplished is the diagnostic port stopped working about two weeks into my breaking in the motor process and that has made it very difficult to set my timing or get any codes it was working fine and then just out of nowhere dead zone I'm starting to feel like or think there's a ghost in my car things just keep getting weirder. Last night I drove her to work everything was going great put some gas in it I stepped on the gas pedal and nothing it would not accelerate at all it just slowed way down and died. My brain hurts this has been going on for a long time but it's a 1987 and the throttle position sensor I got from 22RE performance so it's original like Toyota part which they're not cheap. But I got to the point after the motor was put in I couldn't get it to run right so I just started replacing everything I could think of a year later I'm still in the same boat it's so sad.

 

It's strange too because the wiring harness just got disconnected but it stayed in the vehicle and there's been no damage to it and it worked great before the motor got replaced so I just have a hard time understanding what could cause that to go out. But I'm also self-taught along with the help of YouTube and many friends and forums like this that have given me the courage and the information and knowledge I've needed to do a project like this which I never thought I would it would be really nice to have the payoff be a well-running vehicle 3 months before the motor went out I had just put in the brand new transmission and the motor went out both were built by Yoda one out of Riverbank which are specialist and are supposed to be really good at what they do but I can't help but wonder if there was just one little malfunction in the Machining process I have low compression and number three cylinder and I don't if that's because they just didn't seat properly during the break-in process my rings or I don't know

 

One thing to remember the ECU ground on the manifold can be real finicky .

Clean everything real well to get a good ground .

I need to double check I might have the 1987 EWD

 

I had an 87 4Runner for many years, almost entirely stock, and yes, the grounds in the engine compartment are very sensitive to corrosion. Not only at the point where the individual grounds hit, in other words, both ends of each ground, but also where the battery cables hit. Like, where the battery negative is bolted to the battery, but also where it bolts to the body metal.

It's very important to remember that not only do the individual grounds bolt to the body metal, but also where the battery negative bolts to the body metal. They are both part of the circuit, and you MUST make sure they are clear, and dirt/corrosion free, to make a good circuit. Many people ignore the ground half of the circuit, and don't realize that the battery is just as important as every other part of the circuit.

Dirty/corroded grounds can cause all kinds of weird, intermittent problems, that are a royal PITA to track down. Keep them clean and shiney, and those problems are much less likely to pop up. Also, a small amount of silicone dielectric grease in every electrical connection, both positive and negative, not to mention signals to/from the various ECU's, tends to keep the dirt and corrosion to a bare minimum.

Just a few thoughts from a former Radar Tech.
Good luck!

 

Just remember dielectric grease on the outside of connections. As it does not conduct electric

As only very few dielectric greases conduct electric and most are very well marked.