FN six shooters with 285s?

Anyone else running FN six shooters with 285/70r17? (Looking at Toyo of at3 or Firestone destination at tires).

Looking at this set up, along with old man emu 2.5” lift. Wondering if had, or how much, rubbing? Slight fender trim? BMC needed?

Like the light weight of the flow formed six shooters with. Seems the 0mm offset will be flush as well with fenders?

 

What are the width of the wheels? With factory 7.5" trail wheels and 285s with a 2.5" (2" overall) lift and UCAs, I see a little rubbing on the mud flaps. I suspect similar, but perhaps nothing significant with an 8.5" zero-offset wheel. Maybe a little fender liner repositioning depending on how your alignment lies. Tough to tell until you get them on there, really. Hopefully someone with your desired wheel and tire combo can chime in.

 

FN six shooters at 8” wide, 0mm offset, 17” diameter, 4.5” backspacing. Weigh 21.8 lbs.

 

There's another company, factory style wheels. They sell oem wheels with better width, offset and weight(flow formed)

 

Heck, 8.0" wheels won't be much different from factory 7.5s. If it rubs it'll probably be just a little then, either on the mud flap or maybe forward fender liner a bit. I doubt it would require significant surgery.

 

it is not the width of the wheel but the offset/backspace that makes the difference combined with the larger tire.

Anyone running six shooters? Or I guess the FN FX pros with 285s, since those wheels have same measurements. Did search, but seems results more so from those with 265 or 275s, and no lift kit, with the FN FX pros.

One huge advantage to the six shooters is the lighter weight, which then compensates for the larger tire weight. Trying keep tire/rim weight down to around 70 pounds.

 

I cant' tell you how offset and backspacing would affect you.

But I had the FN Type X with 285s. Had to trim the mud flaps after alignment. I did the BMC but I don't think I really needed it.

 

The Type X have an additional -10mm offset and almost half an inche extra backspacing, thus stick even farther out, as scrub angle increased even more so.

I don’t find messing around with the mud flaps or inner plastic fender a bit, but don’t want to do a BMC for sure.

 

Well I can tell you that rims and tire combo my tire thread was flush with the fender.

I had to be to pass Recon that we had back in the day. They took a straight edge and actually made sure none of my thread was outside. Of course the center of the tire stuck out more but not by much.

So tires on on those rims might be completely flush.

Sorry no head on pics but this is what I got.

 

It's a complicated answer because there are so many variables.

Your 2.5" lift is going to cause the tire to be pulled back towards the mudflap/body mount because of the geometry of a-arms. This makes you more likely to rub on the mudflap and/or body mount. However, certain UCA's like SPC will allow you to correct your caster so that the tire will move forward slightly in your wheel well away from the mudflap and/or body mount.

Pushing your tire forward will require the 'fender liner mod' which is essentially pushing your fender liner forward and trimming a small corner of your fender flare. It's an easier process than doing a BMC but when you factor in that you have to purchase UCAs, it's probably a wash (cost wise) to do the BMC.

The lower the offset and the wider the wheel will cause a wider scrub radius, which is the main culprit of rubbing. 0 offset isn't too bad but can be made worse with wider wheels. Higher caster numbers will get you away from the body mount or mudflap rub but again, you'll need an aftermarket UCA for that with a 2.5" lift.

I have stock Offroad wheels (7.5" wide and +15 offset) with 285/70/R17 and 1.25" wheel spacer.s This puts me right around a -17 offset. I have my caster at 3.6 degrees and do not rub the body mount. There is some slight rubbing on the mudflap with this combo but only in reverse. This is what it looks like:

 

Depends on UCA and alignment settings. Stock UCA likely won't need a CMC.
Adjustable UCA can be set up to avoid a CMC.
Non-adjustable UCA, especially variants marketed as "high-caster", will likely require a CMC.

The catch is SPC UCA with "X-Axis" pivot joints wears out very quickly, as little as a year. That leaves Dobinson billet UCA, which is a lot more expensive.

 

What about old man emu, iron man, Dobinson that have a set caster? Have several
degrees of caster built in. They seem to work well I’m told.

 

These allow you to increase your caster but at the expense of moving your tire back towards your mudflap and body mount. If you want to avoid a BMC, you'll need a UCA that allows adjustability as opposed to "built in" caster.

This video provides great visuals as to why:

https://youtu.be/huMztKaHsUE?si=-BotsmabnBTit4Ty

 

Kind of why hoping someone with six shooters and 285s chimes in, with what lift kit and UCAs they are running and what they experienced in terms of rubbing.

 

^Guy in my off-road club runs 285s on Six Shooters, 2.5" Fox coilover lift and TC UCAs. Had to do the CMC.

 

For 2.5” lift, to get correct caster, you will rub big time on the mud flap with 285 and 0 offset. Pretty sure you will need BMC.