5th gen on 35s

I find 4Lo and 1st gear annoyingly fast, and I think my 285/75s are the culprit. I have started using crawl control with loud music

 

I have used Crawl only a few times, mostly just to see what it does. It's way too fast for the situations where I might actually want to use it, so I just use 4lo and S1 and A-TRAC.

 

What difference does A-Trac make on descents?

 

I paid a dude cash to cut more fender liner and hammer then spray black after bmc

One doesn't simply run 35's on a Runner, a shop will say a lot things to get you booked in

 

None, actually. I just use it more than any of the other off-road goodies. For descents, 4lo and S1 is usually all I need.

 

hopefully u won’t experience the steering wheel shimmy with these tires lol

 

Is that the death wobble of 4Runners lol?

 

I’m not sure I would believe that shop when there’s plenty of info avialable to say it’s necessary. They probably think you’ll never find out how bad they rub and never complain.

That said, since 35s will completely change the character of a 4runner anyways, maybe it’s time for portal axles. https://trail4runner.com/2023/10/23/portal-axles-toyota-4runner-tacoma-buyers-guide/

You won’t have to get the diffs regeared because the portals do it for you. Never mind the 20k outlay, and changing portal axle oil every 5k to 10k miles. The portals might still require some hammer time to clear stuffed 35s.

If you don’t get portals, a regear will help your transmission out a lot. The clutches will be dealing with a lot of extra stress and accelerated wear.

 

@McSpazatron PORTALS!

 

portals are wild

 

Changed my mind lol. I don't want to destroy this truck. It runs perfectly fine on 34s. Need to put the funds towards a full front steel bumper, and an ARB air locker maybe

 

@Yotaholic
I think you said b4 you got 285/75's?
Rear locker?

 

I have 285/75s. I was thinking of ARB front locker

 

Badass!

 

There's alot of good conversations on front lockers on 4R.com too

 

You can hit the brakes using crawl, and then it’ll start up again when you release the brake.

 

That seems like a smart move given the absolutely marginal extra gains that an inch of tire size gets you - and that’s before you air down!

 

Plain truth? If you want to run 35s and expect a functional/drivable truck, it’s going to cost. So pick your flavor, portals or regear, tubing, relocate the body mount (BMC doesn’t cut it), relocate the washer tank, suspension upgrade, LT doesn’t hurt at that point so get new upper/lower control arms and long CV axels.

most assuredly 20K if you can do some of the work yourself.

But… I love it and don’t care about gas mileage. Keep an eye on the breaks and steering!

 

I know. But, it's still too fast to be useful for what I'd want to use it for. If I have to fuck around with the brakes, I might as well just do it myself. A real crawl gear would be more useful on descents.

 

Not really sure what crawl control would be good for on descents. I only use it on flats.

 

I just said that it's not any good for descents. It's too fast. But, if it were slower, it would allow you to focus more on steering, and could also be used on technical obstacles. But, it's too fast. I'd trade Crawl for a better 4lo ratio any day.

 

Crawl control is like 3 times slower on descents vs. 4Lo/1st in my case. Am I missing something?

 

For less than $20k I can get an old Jeep on 37s that I can pull everywhere behind my Ram lol
This shop said they can do it for 800 bucks, and no hardware/parts needed. Too good to be true I guess

 

Our trucks' crawl is not even better than Wrangler Willys

 

I'm not saying that 4lo, S1 is slower than crawl.

I'm saying that crawl is too fast to be worthwhile on a steep descent. I tried it on a big rock that I climb a few times a year, and I ended up having to brake the whole time. If I'm going to have to brake the whole time, I'll just drive it myself.

And, I'd rather have a better crawl gear than crawl control.

 

I’m curious, if they said it didn’t need hammering to clear, what exactly were they going to do for that 800 bucks? Install the tires and trim off a little more on the fender?

I think it was a good call to change your mind. Clearing the tires, and regearing are some challenges, but Nova brought up a good point about the steering and brakes. 35s will be really hard on the steering pump, and the tie rods would be pretty easy to bend. Buying 35s for looks only is doable if you are gentle on the street. But if you intend to actually use it off road without making the right changes, it’s so much easier to break things. It would just have huge clay feet.

 

What made you choose grabbers? I heard great things about them, but those are some heavy tires.

 

I'm sure y'all have seen this, but speaking of larger tires and credit card:
https://rsgmetalworks.com/blogs/news/rsg-t40r-build-thread

I think they're only into it about $100k or so. Pretty sweet ride, but it's obviously no longer a 4Runner.

 

Yeah, I know. I was agreeing with you on the lack of value. Gravity is more useful, combined with brakes.