Who currently has Audio Control Lc7i installed?

Finished up the install of my system using factory head unit and I'm happy with it but a few questions regarding the lc7i.

It's in a 19 ORP with entune (non jbl)

Set up is LC7i going to Kenwood Excelon xr901-5 amp to power factory speakers and a 10" Skar Audio 600wrms sub in their ported box. I used the two Metra harnesses I saw on taco forums and 2 runs of 9 wire. Sounds a 100x better

With the LC7i I can only get 2.4 to 3.4v if I max out the dials on the speaker input section running 100-1000hz test tone. I'm guessing it's just the Toyota HU in general that isn't allowing me to get near 5v but figured I'd ask if anyone else has this set up and what voltages you're getting. Second is accubase setting. If I turn off accubase I can only get to 2.3v to the amp but I I turn it up past 3/4 turns to full I can pull in about 9.8v. I would like to set it somewhere between 4-5v if possible so not sure if I should go the accubase route or not. I can't tell much of a difference with it on or off truthfully. Sub output is set just under 34v.

Should I run the accubase fully active to get the higher voltage for the sub as its supposedly a cleaner signal?

Who has the lc7i and what numbers did you get out of it from factory HU?

Going to be building a custom sealed box to fit at the driver side wheel well area next.

 

Sounds like you’re not solid on what AccuBass is/does and how to set it up.

I have the 2020 model so I can’t give you details on the stereo output. You’ll have to structure your gains according to when things begin to distort. You’ll also have to find the volume at which your factory bass begins to lag behind the rest of the spectrum to set up AccuBass. On my radio it starts at about 25.

I can do a more detailed thing on that, as well as the Epicenter when I get my truck back. It’s currently waiting for a replacement motor to be installed so that will likely be a few weeks.

 

It is new to me running a LOC like this but I understand the concept of what it does and how it works. I truthfully can't truly tell where the drop off is in the volume enough to know how to properly adjust it I guess.

I guess my biggest concern is voltages the Lc7i is able to produce to the 5ch amp. I'm guessing the factory HU is what's holding back voltage output on ch1 and 2. Accudbass only works for channel 3 which the sub is on and going by voltage reading it goes from 2.4v and jumps up to almost 10v once the dial gets to a certain spot. I'm guessing that spot is where drop-off is happening and the lc7i is coming in to account for it.

Do I set the lc7i ch3 voltage first then do accubase and level then come back to voltage, that's what the manual seems to imply but I feel like it's a revolving circle and I just can't get it right

 

At the volume you are setting output levels, your AccuBass should be well beyond the threshold to be active, and the amount of compensation set. This being the case, I would adjust the final subwoofer amplifier input sensitivity last.

So what I would do is set your stereo volume just below distortion. Set LC7i input sensitivity. Then set your L/R amp input sensitivity. After that, it’s trial and error on AccuBass unless you have an RTA. Set your sub up with no AccuBass, get AccuBass dialed in (remember you aren’t adjusting AccuBass at full volume) and then unplug your sub and finalize your subwoofer input sensitivity.

https://youtu.be/ojB-NFq2MaQ

From there you can turn sub down to match up with your other speakers, assuming you have plenty of built in headroom.

Remember never to turn your radio volume past the level you used to set all of this up unless you know your source is at a lower level than 0dB. Our stereos reach distortion in all channels at the same voltage and the setting for each channel at that voltage looks like this:

Front Left - Fader 55
Front Right - Fader 49
Rear Left - Fader 52
Rear Right - Fader 51

Like I said, I have the 2020 so yours might be different.

 

I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I've watched all the videos on YouTube I could find so it's just me not picking up the drop off correctly.

Should I use 0db for speakers and -5db for sub or keep it all at -5db?

 

I added and clarified quite a bit so maybe recheck my previous post. Bottom line though is setting AccuBass by ear is a recipe for frustration. I was able to use measurements to set mine up, and it’s one of the reasons I think just buying the Audio Control DSP instead of a LoC is a better choice.

I know it costs a lot more but it’s worth it because you get built in tools, plus a lot more control over your system. Not everyone has RTAs and Oscilloscopes lying around and anymore you kind of need something.

Also keep in mind, the whole voltage thing you seem concerned about, the end result is the same because you attenuate your amplifier to what you have. There’s no difference between 2V, 4V, 5V ultimately. The only way I can see that making a difference is if you have cheap noisy gear, which you don’t.

 

Much appreciated! From what I have heard 2020 HU is much better and advanced lol. I really couldn't believe how little settings there are for my 19. My 03 silverado had more settings. I'll mess with it tomorrow and hopefully can figure this out. I was going to do a new HU altogether but really didn't care for options and looks I ran across. For now I'll figure a way to make this work.

 

Gave it shot today and it's better but still sounds off so I ordered an Oscope to do it right. Hopefully once done I can update this thread with factory numbers for true clipping and bass drop-off so others have an idea.

 

Well, I’ll tell you if the 2019 is like the 2020…

I knew I’d need pre-EQ. So I got an Audison BIT 8.9 and it’s a long story but I hated the BIT, and the pre-EQ sucked balls.

So I got a DM-608 and I got better results but damn if I couldn’t get it great and I was thinking this sounds pretty good but something is going on and I want it better. I did like the AccuBass feature, and the RTA on the signal was nice to see (rear channels are total shit)



Then I realized that not only is there attenuation on each channel of the factory radio output but there is also time alignment. Sounds like a great idea until you realize you are deriving LFE from a sum of L/R and if they aren’t time aligned before you do that you get some cancellation. I’m getting LFE from the front because I knew about the rear frequency response.

Enter the JL FiX, the third processor I’ve used on this system. This thing will null your OEM tune, but also corrrect the time alignment. You can see in the interface the amount of time correction for each channel it applies. It also gives you a 10 band EQ for each channel on the output.

After installing the FiX my low end started sounding more like it should, and I barely put an EQ on it, lived with it for a while, thought it was sounding really good and just before deciding to put all the microphones in and do a full holy shit transfer function, impulse response OMGWTFBBQCHICKEN multiplexed tune I ran over a tree that fell in the road so it’s basically been in the shop since October.

This is where my stereo stands right now. Since it’s been in the shop I’ve gotten a few more things I’d like to experiment with, like the Epicenter Micro and a TwK 88. I might still use the DM-608, but I’m leaving the FiX for the signal correction because it hands down did the best job (plus I’m using the digital output).

So I don’t know if the 2019 is like the 2020 but I kind of hope for your sake that it’s not. If it is, I don’t think the LC7i is right for the application. It should be, but considering everything I ran into, my opinion is you need a lot more processing to get great results.

Keep in mind I do this for fun, and work in professional audio so what I do is a bit much for most people and YMMV.

 

From what I have came across the 20' headunit is a whole different beast. I used an oscilloscope today to try and set everything and still wasn't really happy. The 19' HU is def doing some weird things when it comes to voltage outputs and frequencies. I scoped the HU as it sits straight off a set of speaker wires to see if the HU itself will clip and it clipped at volume 59 out of 62. Once i hit volume 48 voltages jumped like crazy coming out of the LC7i. Front voltage would get to like 11.3v and rears would go up around 19v. Back it off a number or two and voltages were like 4.7v for front and 11.6v for the rear. I used the scope to set all the gains on the LC7i and the amp to where i listen to music and once everything was reconnected it all seemed to work favorably.

I ended up for now using the gains to give me volumes I prefer at a lower number setting from the head unit and everything is working pretty well. I'm not hearing bass roll off or anything. Now my volume is basically 20-34 on the dial and it's plenty loud and pretty clear. Could go louder but I don't listen to music really past this point so should be good and voltages are all still safe.

 

Could you let me know what harness you used to connect your headunit to the LC7i.