Need advice installing cold air intake on 1990 SR5 V6 3.0L

Hello Everyone I joined this site because my 23-year-old son bought a 1990 Toyota 4Runner V6 SR5. He ordered a K&N cold air intake system with the adapter to retrofit his specific engine. It has been left up to me 5pinstall this and I have tried several times using the instructions given by K&N, have spoke to tech support and even tried a few mods I saw on you tube but each time unsuccessful. I am at a loss and would like to hear any ideas anyone could pass along to me. Here are some photos of 2hat I have to work with.

 

Why not just keep the original intake? That "cold air intake" isn't going to improve anything. It's not even a cold air intake as it's pulling engine bay air. Air filter "upgrades" only improved things on carburetor applications...and even then barely.

 

My personal opinion is dont do the mod in the first place. The stock location grabbed cold air from the wheel well, this thing is grabbing hot air from the engine cavity. It’s a hot air intake, you should get less power and better fuel economy thanks to lower air density from hot engine air.

Anyway, what issue are you having? Does the adapter not fit.

 

"need advice on cold air" yeah don't

++ the previous replys. Intake air aint cold if you snort it under hood. Especially near that exhaust cross over .
The design induction path starting under fender is as cold as it gets on a clear day.
Possible a snorkle on the A pillar will deliver colder air at the expense of a slightly longer air path, look mean too,

 

Spend elsewhere.
K&N are terrible filters.
They flow great but filter lousy.
There is no free lunch.
Cut your losses and put the stock one back on.

 

The flow path through the filter is nice and the reduction in the plumbing to the TB is straightforward but like many have stated the temperature sensor is in the AFM right in front of the Flapper. This will be sensing quite warm-hot air coming off the fan and radiating off the engine. I would stay with the OEM arrangement or build a shroud like I did and insulate it and get that lovely cool inrush of air from behind the PS headlight.

 

K &n is junk, return it. Save your money. Cais are worthless

 

2016Pro

Your statement is heresy at best. A stock 2nd generation 4Runner will be hard pressed to reach 100MPH @ sea level. With the modifications I have made to my 91 4Runner which includes the K&N FIPK, it will easily go north of 95 MPH in fifth gear pushing more air than stock in both track width and height with about 3 inches for both as an adder. Do you own and drive a 2nd Gen with this 3.0L V6? Granted the FIPK does need to be shrouded to keep the warm air away and when that is managed the gain is real at top RPM were the HP is maximized. WOT in top gear at maximum speed is all the dyno anyone needs to realize this to see what a go fast product is doing for you or not. Anything we can do to increase the volumetric efficiency of our engines will be a win.

 

I got my 3rd gen up to 104 mph, and mine has a 3rz which is slightly less powerful than the 3vz.

I wont dispute that there are ways to improve the performance of a 3vz, the question is why bother?

Your polishing a turd when you do performance mods on a 3VZ, and it's on a vehicle that clearly isn't designed to handle well or go fast. If you want exhilarating driving and good cornering get a Celica or a performance SUV.

What can't be disputed is this engines has a reputation for being problematic when abused. Maybe it wont blow a head gasket when taken care of, but trying to get more power out of it puts more stress on everything, your pushing your luck.

I'd say it's ill advised to ask more from an engine that has a reputation for being barely adequate to handle its stock power. If you want more power, an engine swap will do better.

 

Lol, the dyno results prove the fact that cais are worthless. K & n is definitely junk, snake oil

 

Trekker, 2016Pro,
Those of us who own and drive our 3VZ-E's don't need your condescending replies in our section of this forum or any forum for that matter.
You really do irk me with your simple minded brand bashing statements that only promote one of the biggest myths there is on the internet concerning the 3.0L V6 that bridged the initial OBD1 to OBDII emission's requirements here in our great country the USA.
While the 3VZ-E is a bit limited in stock form to be approximately 145-150 hp with 180 ft-lb of torque, the under square bore to stroke ratio means this engine needs to revved to get it to perform better. Nothing one can do much about the valve train being what it is. But when you drive it hard and rev it up with opened-up intake and exhaust it responds appreciably. The first time after we put the headers on my sons 90 4Runner this year he was blown away at the improvement in both acceleration and ability at holding speed with reduced throttle settings at the pedal.
His 4Runner and my own are first hand experiences over the last 5 years that we have enjoyed improving because they are a great looking 4Runners. I'll give any 3.4L 3rd gen a good run for its money any day of the week. Trekker, with a 7" widened track width that is like that of a T-100 on my 4Runner with the Blazeland suspension it handles just great and will cruise through "S" turns with great predictability. Yes, it is the best of both worlds were the pavement ends and the dirt begins!... o

 

I had the same conversation between 1984-85 and 1986-87 Grand Nationals back in the day.

Multiple items can be changed/modified, to equalize, once brought to the drag strip when bragging rights are needed.

Granted anyone with an 84-85 was going into a David versus Goliath fight on an 86-87 without lots of changes/mods.

Good times.

 

I'm just going by the proof bud, Cai don't do anything and k & n filter "chargers" are a snake oil joke that filter poorly and do not add hp lol

 

There is ZERO point for an intake change on a STOCK setup. Toyota engineers weren't that stupid even back in the 90's.

If you've modified your engine for more performance beyond what it was engineered for, then yeah, a less restricted intake may be warranted.

Unless you hookup a vacuum gauge to your intake and prove to yourself you have vacuum being created (aka you have a restriction), you will see no gains with any intake change.