Lug Nut Removal: Impact Driver or Breaker Bar?

I'm reading some mixed messages here and other places about the best tool for the job.

I rotated the tires last time using a cross lug wrench, then torqued them to 83 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. After spinning that cross wrench off 24 times and on 24 times, I bought a DeWalt 1/2" impact driver. My plan was to use the impact driver to remove the lug nuts, and put them most of the way back on before using the torque wrench.

Is there any harm in using the impact driver to take them off this time, or is a breaker bar (or the cross lug wrench) necessary at first?

 

if you're worried about breaking a stud i'd use an impact wrench over a breaker bar to remove, but for the future i'd put a dab anti-seize on the hub every time you rotate to save headaches in the future.

you can use an impact driver to zip lug nuts on as long as the wheel is hub centric and not relying on the lug nuts to center the wheel. this is probably a me thing but i prefer to use a torque wrench only to torque and not as a tool to twist nuts and bolts on.

EDIT: Adjusted anti-seize suggestion

 

Just my personal opinion and method.

It's OK to take them off with an impact. After all, I've yet to see a tire shop that does it differently. Personally, I break them with a breaker bar then use the impact to spin them off after they are loose.

Putting them back on. I never use an impact for this. I spin them on by hand, snug them with a ratchet / breaker and the then tighten them to final torque with a torque wrench.

 

Technically removing them impact can cause the cap on the factory lugs nuts to come apart after a long time. Probably true. To protect them, I try have a good quality impact socket and seat it square and all the way in before pulling the trigger on the impact wrench.

Usually I start and seat the lug nuts by hand. Sometimes there’s junk on the threads, or shoulders of the lug nuts that doesn’t feel right when they land, so I take them off, clean, and reseat. Doing it by hand lets me get the wheel centered little by little until it feels perfect. Does feeling out little stuff like that matter? Not sure, but I’ve never had any weird steering wheel or brake vibrations yet. I’d like to think the extra effort mounting the wheels just right helps avoid those problems.

Every once in a while though, I’ll start by hand, then use the impact gun to land them. Not the end of the world. But I’m also not sure it speeds anything up. Final torquing always is done with a torque wrench.

 

Isn’t the torque value based on dry threads? I’d worry that using anti seize on the threads could lead to over-torquing.

I use a tiny film of antiseize on the hub seating surface and the chamfered bore of the wheel, but have noticed that it can build up over time.

 

I second the recommendation to be sure the impact wrench is well and squarely seated for any use. When putting them back on, I start by hand. That's true of almost anything, even when just using a manual socket. I like to feel with my hands that the threads are properly engaged.

 

I break them loose with a breaker bar and use an impact driver to zip them off. I used to use an impact gun to break them loose too but the lugs will mushroom over time.

I use the same impact driver to zip them on then finish with a torque wrench.

 

to be honest i've never considered wet vs. dry torque. i've typically gone by the guidance of a manual when it comes to torque values and if a bolt needs to be lubricated or not. i never thought to completely understand that principal beyond what i'm told to do. thanks for that.

 

DO NOT put anti seize on the studs. McSpazatron is correct, that it will not be properly torqued with a lube on the stud.

 

Break out a small wire brush and make sure any surface rust is knocked off on them studs.

 

Same. I've also found that if you have coated (e.g. black) lug nuts, the zip gun tends to damage the coating that they start rusting. So I use a breaker bar to break them loose, and a drill/socket to loosen them all the way. Then the drill/socket to get them most of the way on and a torque wrench for the final tightening.

 

I want to get a couple of these to keep in each vehicle.

https://gomichaelpro.com/collection...-3-sockets-17-19-21-mm?variant=37254107758765

 

I've got four of those. One in my truck, one each in my kids' trucks, and one in my gear for my ski trailer. I've used it once when I had a flat on my trailer and it worked great. Amazon has those in various brands for somewhere in the $20 range if I recall.

Edit - here's the one I bought:

$17 EPAuto Telescoping Lug Wrench, Wheel Wrench with CR-V Sockets (17/19, 21/22mm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FV7XVM?ie=UTF8

 

I use the impact. No issues after around 20 tire rotations/swaps. But, if you're concerned about the finish on your lug nuts, I'd break them with a breaker bar or ratchet first as mentioned above. The paint is pretty rough on mine.

 

That's pretty slick. I'll keep it in mind, although I already feel silly owning three torque wrenches.

 

What you bought is not the same as the one posted by whippersnapper02, the one he posted is a real "torque wrench", the one you have posted is a "lug wrench" only.

 

Yes, thank you. We were talking about breaker bars and that's what I posted. No offense to Whip, but I would not use that style of torque wrench. I have a Snap On digital. In fact, three of them in different ranges.

 

Yeah both of my Cornwell torque wrenches are click type. I haven't had any issues but it would be nice to have the digital type for the other features such as degree.

 

Just be conscious of what you are doing. I use 650lb impact turned down. I always snug wheel on register and run nuts down to make sure it's on the register flat then I do one thousand one, one thousand two on each nut and they come out around 90lbs when I check. A torque stick takes guess work out and you can't break anything. You can get different torque weights. A 3/8 can work if it's strong enough. Biggest not always best.