What my second gen 4Runner did to me...

It has been a few weeks since I last posted about my new to me since July 4Runner. No matter what I might say next this is still the best vehicle that I've ever owned. My apologies to all the jeeps I've previously owned.

I was driving to my exes to take her and my son to the airport about 2 weeks ago after being so proud of myself the day before flushing the cooling system, replacing the thermostat, upper/lower radiator hoses, air filter, cleaning out throttle body and MAF sensor (there appeared to be rat droppings in the filter housing. that or really small acorns?), fixed windshield washer, led headlights among other things. My mechanical skills are average at best so yeah I was feeling confident for a moment. The 4Runner was running weird like limp home mode or something and died entering her neighborhood with me coasting as far as I could and then borrowing her car. In hindsight I should have has the 4Runner towed home as I suspected the MAF sensor was killed when I sprayed cleaner all up in the housing. I had the car towed to Christian Brothers Automotive as I've been there with previous cars.
Its 149 dollars for the inspection before they even begin work however for a 27 year old car I was okay with that. What I was not okay with was them calling and telling my wife the total for repairs will be just over $14,000. She was beyond upset and I was like, lets not get too hasty.
When I called they said to fix everything wrong mechanically and due to age that would be the cost. Basically a mechanical restoration.
I called and asked just what it would cost to drive and enjoy the car. Their answer was $2600 which I agreed however it was all items I believe I could have performed myself; MAF sensor, new radiator and thermostat. They said they tried multiple aftermarket MAF sensors to no avail and most of the costs was finding a NOS unit from a Toyota dealer.
The previous owner replaced the radiator to a fancy upgraded aftermarket unit, however it appears he or a previous shop over tightened the upper and lower clamps to the radiator housing and pinched the thin metal causing partial obstructions and cracks.

I have the vehicle back and I must say that it is running great and I have a a to-do list of repair items. I've prioritized to steering box, power steering pump (previous owner neglect), valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets. Things like rear main seal is something I cannot do.

In short, lessons learned that If I have the car towed to a shop be prepared to pay dearly.

Thanks,
Rusty

 

Is your 4runner a 3.0 or 22re? I have a couple factory 22re MAF sensors sitting in my garage.

 

Thanks for the feedback and unfortunately I have the 3.0. Whew! NOS MAF sensors from Toyota dealers are as high as 1200 when Christian Brothers Automotive was looking for a compatible part that actually made the truck run for more than 2 minutes.

 

I would highly recommend checking the local junkyard for MAF. I don't see those removed often.

 

Thanks for the tip. I wonder if I should plan a trip to local pick a part type junkyard and start pulling parts that will probably need to be replaced at some point? Thanks again, Rusty

 

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• When I worked for Toyota back in early 2000s we were still doing warranty work on 2nd gen 3.0s because they had a head gasket issue so as long as it running we were fixing regardless of mileage. The good thing about a 3.0 is they leak around the valve covers and they start changing oil every month or so deep on how bad they are. My 4.0 2013 has 193k and not an engine oil leak one. I thought they might have stuck them on with FIPG to keep people out but they guess oil. Can't leak that high up with the two stage vvti double tier valve covers. It looks like it might be a job to do whatever I have one day years for now. They probably have more oil control to direct it where it needs to go to get it to cams and chains more. I read where 0W20 circulates 6 times a minute more than 5W30. Using synthetic oil is important. You take apart any Toyota engine that has has just synthetic Mobil I in it and the motor will have a golden finish to the inside of the engine but no sludge in it at all. 0W20 is make more engine power and get better mileage standards. It probably hurts American built Toyota cars because they are using loose tension piston rings to reduce dragbut has created an oil burning Camry certain ones. Thicker oil might help to reduce if you use from the start. Get credit up and don't be afraid of a 4 runner that was $50k ten years ago and I got it for half price. Get one where they don't use salt and if you do drive it a high salt just wash from edge of body to frame rail. Anything will rust no matter what. I always coated mine with mud before winter because I would rather have the salt touching the mud than washing I snow than the salt touching the frame. Fortunately I had drains and heated and cooled downstairs garbage I would hook my pressure washer to the hot water heater for washing salt off frame especially this liquid brime they use here now. Anyway if it's running, drive try to spend ss little as possible the only thing that a 4runner does best is start, go, and get back . With minimal care it will always put a gas always pass a parts for 300-400 k with just basic maintenance every 90-100k .I don't know what a dealer charges for a 60 k or 90k maintenance used to be about $300 back in 2008 and it is a big lost of stuff that won't affect the vvti engines. Doing away with belts caused them to do away with transmission dip sticks so they created replacement money makers that can be done for a drop off on the side rack and he can pick and choose the best paying job you can do the quickest anda technician money maker. 15k is overpriced filter and throttle body clean. I know I can do a 60k or even a 90k I think 90k is diffs I believe still.i always did everything on moine at 90-100k and transfer case drain and fill, grease and throttle body cleaning. I use seafoam in a tank once a month and.but my throttle body was super clear for 172k after I bought it. Seafoam makes a kit that is cheaper when you buy them together. The throttle body spray has a wand with a hook you can insert under the boot so you can run the can deep into the injection system that gets dirty you need help or to get some rocks if you don't have someone to operate pedal to keep it running. Can't grab linkage because there isn't any now. So you need a tool or body to help. I was just really fast and I lodged the pedal that ran it about 200-2500 rpm. I like Berry B12 to. It was only thing I could get my belt carbon clean enough to past inspection. However don't spray up in there and use a wire brush. Apparently not all throttle bodies are created as equal as Toyota and it came at the finish and casting up . Never seen on a Toyota but have heard about it on other brands. If you want to drive it as long as you can I would for factory as low mileage as you can find. There's still a one owner down south south here somewhere. I actually think I found a one owner 3rd generation a couple streets over. I sold mine and bought a 2013, but for off-road around here it fits my 3rds were better. They still it in a side by side trail and if you're drunk and distracted and fold your mirrors in. My limited is for people who don't realize they are going 4wheeling and I will go everywhere a TRD will stock. I just don't have to do anything more, except foivl, if you can. . I am not rock crawling mine except little boulder and I can using her traction on the edge that way. To me the fun is using your ability to traverse obstacles and not letting a computer drive me through it. I chose my based on lowest repotted problems but I didn't want to spend 15k more for doodads you add later. The newer front will fit on the early 2010-13 mine was last 1156A bulb I had not seen since the 70s and 80s because the body shop put the cheapest mexico bulbs they could find and I had to replace both eventually. My 3rd gen I never replaced any bulbs. Ims on a lot.would like the LED lights though. Mine had a light option on mind they have so many different models now the options list probably why I get bright lighted with fog lamps on. On YouTube a $8500 dollars went everywhere a TRD pro for $60 k went no problem. That might be the next best value even if you can find right one. You don't see as many but I thought the interior looked cheap. You get what you're paying for usually. The Subaru used car lot a 2018 with 85k miles got $43 k and I thought that was high for comparisons I made when I was shopping. Granted nothing is better than a southern owned 4runner because little or no salt in winter and they had a gray the fake chrome bumper cover they put on the limited to make it look expensive I guess. More money for little fluff and I like painted cover on mine. I'm sure that increases price for of crashing a little I am confused about all the different models now. It was SR5 , Limited and sport edition and that's it. I know the new front end will go on earlier ones but I don't know what years exactly. Usually the model determines trim and accessories but it's using the same mounting points to bolt on what front goes with that streamlines production and make things more reliable over time. This app keeps moving my cursor around and I half sentences in some the middle of a different idea that makes no.sense. h well

 

I was reading over what I sent and I hope you can put all the clues together especially a half of one and understand why it is like that. I changed some phone settings earlier and I don't really know what I did but I think it's in control of my spelling and grammar composition.

 

It seems to be eliminating any space between paragraphs, which makes reading difficult.

 

I read it several times and picked up what I thought he was trying to lay down. I think.

 

We are all skilled readers here

 

I know this is an old thread but I am glad that RG has his truck back running.

Not to pick nits, but the 3.0 does not have a MAF it has a VAFM.

As far as his comment about taking your vehicle to a shop to have it repaired… If you take your vehicle in to a shop, please get an agreement from the service manager that they will not change any part, with the exception of tune up items, unless they can show you the test results that the part is bad. Most of the components on the 3.0 with the exception of the Ignitor and ECM, can be easily tested with an Ohm meter and the procedures are in the FSM. There are too many threads about the 10 items the shop changed while Trouble$hooting and nothing changed, except the bill gets larger.

Remember the Rules.
#1. If you want to fix IT, you have to know how IT works.
#2. If IT works, do not fix or replace IT.
#3. See rules #1 and #2.

Find a shop that knows the rules.