Duralast Gold 24F AGM replacing Odyssey 24F AGM or.....

I have been plagued with short battery life from my Odyssey 24F, no parasitic draw sometimes and battery will go from 12.8 fully charged to 12.4 overnight. My stock battery Panasonic was awesome, but I did add some minor mods after replacing it.
My issue thread and what I did over time if u want to deep dive into my issues: https://www.4runners.com/threads/parasitic-draw-power-draw-issue-help.30876/#post-475955

AutoZone will give me a full credit for the Odyssey 24F, and since they don't have any stock I was thinking going with a Duralast Gold 24F AGM since I have a camping trip next week. They have Optima, but I haven't herd many good things about them long term.

soooo, should I go with the Duralast Platinum 24F AGM, or go back to a regular battery? Other thoughts welcome.

Ps I have been using a voltage booster.

 

I thought their agm was the Durolast Platinum?

I'd say try it.

I had a Durolast agm from auto zone in a prior car and put one in my 4R earlier this summer. No issues from them on my end.

 

You are right, its the Platinum. Its worth a shot and cheaper I guess. Did you use a voltage booster if it was an AGM?

 

Is it true that in some instances AGM batteries are unable to fully charge with the stock alternator?

Seems like I recently saw a thread where the OP was having AGM battery charging issues.

 

That is correct, they need to charge in the ~13.6-14.8v range and newer 4Runners don't push much more than ~13.2. I added a voltage booster which helps, but not until a year of use without one which may be part of the issue.

 

I dont use anything extra. 4 different vehicles of mine ranging 2013 to 2018 model had no issues with agm. I just drop em in same as any other battery.

 

I have a very short commute, which may be part of my problem, however...

Got the new Duralast Platinum AGM last night, checked voltage, 12.5. This AM it was at 12.3. I am totally lost... Trickle charging now to see if I can get it up to 12.8+.

May have made the issue worse with the Duralast.

I don't get it. No parasitic draw 20, 40 min even 1hr + after sitting. Yet over night I drop 2-3 volts.

 

Well, the fuel pump does its 15-minute thing during the night after it's been driven, but it's hard to see how that would drop it 2-3 volts.

 

Yeah, its the strangest battery situation I have ever had. Next ill have to disconnect the LTE from my remote start.

But first ill give the battery a good trickle charge since it may have been on the shelf for a while.

 

Trickle charged it yesterday and went for a ride. 12.8v yesterday evening and 12.5v late this am, so not bad.

 

How short is your daily ride? Under 10 minutes?

 

They will still work but you just won't be able to ever fully charge them. Not a huge issue though for regular usage.

 

A couple of things to mention. There is parasitic draw from the clock and pre-set radio stations. Plus as said, from the evap/fuel systems. And it's probably a typo but did you mean, .2 to .3 voltage drop?
About the only way to not have any draw against the battery, is to disconnect both leads from the battery and then check it the next day.

I've got nothing to add about a choice of batteries, other than I have a flooded wet cell Interstate in the 4R and a Diehard AGM in my TJ for those sideways and upside down trail ride days.

 

Does the voltage booster get it to a full charge, or just close enough?

 

About 13min to be exact. lol Mostly highway. I definitely need to leave earlier and drive slower. lol

Yes, ~.3 voltage drop over a ~15 hour period. I measured the draw from clock and normal draw and got ~.35A after an hour and two hours, which is actually not bad. I wish I had an amp draw recorder for overnight, but I would rather not spend a ton on a meter that can do that. lol

For example: On a camping trip with minimal battery usage over 32 hours (Just opening/closing the doors serval times and NOT leaving lights on) the battery got down to 12.2v and barley turned over on the old battery (1yr old Odyssey). Luckily my alarm fob warned me of the low voltage before it was too late and I was able to let it run for an hour and charge it up.

It seems this new AGM is acting similarly, but maybe a little more consistent? I guess ill see, but I highly doubt my 4R can sit for a week and start.

Close enough I guess. I thought AGM's were supposed to sit after full charge at 13v or so but it gets it up to 12.7 or 12.8 if I drive for more than 13min. lol Like today I drove for about an hour and it got it up to 12.8. Its at 12.6 5 hours later.

Voltage booster is at max boost, high end of 14.7v to low of 13.6v.

I got a new Duralast Platinum 24F AGM and $150 back in my pocket BTW.

 

Update...

Went camping with a 4hr drive, fully charged up to 12.8v and within 10 hours down to 12.3v so I had to let it run for 30min so it would last overnight. I did not lock up the car and did have all lights off but the hatch was open the entire time.

I'm lost... Clearly its charging, no major parasitic draw yet loss of .5v overnight...

Going to disconnect my LTE for my remote start and/or my OBD connection for data and see what happens...

I may have to figure out a way to get a Tesla powerwall to connect to my 4R.

 

I decided not to change my lead acid battery to AGM because my alternator don't give enough charge AGM needs. Don't want to install that voltage increase diode thing that gives 14.5V because I'm scared of sensitive electronics in 4runner. Again, it's just me..

 

I may just go back to a regular lead acid battery, but if i cant get this voltage loss under control ill need to leave my vehicle running all the time. lol

Diode thing has come a long way, you have a few options of power not just 14.5. The one i got has reg med boost and extra boost up to 14.8. To the rest of my electronics is under/around 13v

 

Had some issues testing amperage draw since my clamp meter turns off after 10mn so i tested voltage. Did parasitic draw for the first 10min, but after ~20min i get this draw and it doesn't appear/sound to be the fuel pump, but maybe? Still got to test LTE for the alarm and maestro.

Vid from 15min in (you can actually hear the relay kick on/off): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNHNh2lpB8I

 

How long did your Odyssey last? Had mine 8 months and it just died..bleh

 

Project Farm did a battery comparison test a while back, and if I remember correctly the AGMs didn't really offer any benefit.

And I know this doesn't help you because you have the AutoZone credit, but I've been running an EverStart from Walmart in mine for a little over a year now and it's been great. It cost about $125.

 

One year. But "last" is relative since it was working fine and i replaced it as part of my parasitic draw diagnosis. This Duralast is nowhere near as good or hold the same AH, but it is easer to know where i stand and charges to full faster.

It seems this is true, AGM's seem to only give a little extra run time. But they should be better all the way around, its just my parasitic draw that's causing the issue.


Its crazy, the dealer tests for the draw and never get anything above 70mA. When i test its 160+mA even after sitting for 1/2hr. Such a pain in the ass.

 

I used Auto Zone's AGM battery in my 4R for few years to replace 5 year old North Star. Noticed Duralast getting weak (slow engine starts). Put my old North Star back in and all is well again 6 years on. Duralast sits on the bench My other rig uses X2 battery that is essentially same as North Star and well made. Batteries Plus sell them.

 

Do you use a voltage booster for your AGM's? Long daily drives?

I will likely get another Odyssey or the like once i figure out this paradisiac draw. Not a fan of the Duralast, but it serves its purpose for now.

 

I could be wrong, but 13.2 seems super low for when the vehicle is running. Have you tested your alternator to make sure it's working properly? I always thought vehicles charged in the high 13-low 14 volt range.

 

Depends, the new 4R's charge in that ~13v range. And some older 4R's charge at a higher voltage. Most alternators will put out 14v on cold idle and fluctuate 13.4-13.8 hot (as mine does). Alternator definitely charges, i go from 12.5 and after a 20min commute it gets to 12.7 but may be one of the potential issues. I tested the Alternator with my Topdon and its fine:

 

I've 20 minutes drives to work and back. Using Arklight booster on medium setting of 14.3 Volts

 

Same, medium setting as well.

 

I’ve given up on searching for that “Super Duper” battery. I just buy the cheapest battery O’Reilly sells and put it on a 2 year maintenance plan. Test and/or replace.

 

I'm close to giving up too. But i really needed the extra capacity for my overlanding and camping out multiple days.

I have basically giving up on the extra capacity from a 12V car battery and have purchased some high capacity battery banks that can output 120v till i find a better solution.

But i have to figure out this phantom parasitic draw.