Sound deadening

So as I'm about to start tearing the rear of my rig apart to build a custom box, I'm thinking sound deadening may not be a horrible idea while I've got it all apart. My only question is if it's really necessary.

I've used products like Dynamat in the past (10-15 years ago or so) but my 5th gen is pretty quiet as it is. Has anyone gone through the whole rigamarole of gutting the interior to add sound deadening, and if so, how much difference did it make?

I also see now that in addition to the mat deadening there is now spray and paint on deadening. Again, looking for opinions from people who have done this in a 4runner before about what's the better option now.

 

I am a big audio guy. For me, imho yes, i love the use of dampener. Lots of it. It can change your vehicles resonance frequency as well as keep heat out, and of course killing unwanted rattles, and noises. Ive done the rear hatch already,around the rear wheel wells, and both front doors. The roof will be this summer.
For me, IMHO, SecondSkin (SecondSkinAudio.com) is the best ive used, and i have used A LOT in my car audio days. Competed for over a decade,... even got a world champion ring, bringing back a discipline to the United States, that Brazilians and Canadians held for years called Psyclone. I am a huge believer in dampener, for any reason. You can look on the SecondSkin site, and get anything from low profile, high density, heat barrier, and anything else you need/want. Cheers and good luck.





Some inspiration:










Cheers and good luck.

 

I am getting prepared to install some aftermarket speakers in the next few weeks, IS sound deading really worth the investment? I can understand for high end setup, but for basic improvements?

 

Yes.

You should do the doors when you have it apart already. Will add a few hundred dollars to your project, but you will notice it.

 

I plan to spend about 600 on speakers, and the almost 200 for sound deadening is hard to hit the purchase button on. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

Well unless you paid cash for your truck, your payment is about 800 bucks……

so… if you don’t see the value in doing it right, I’m not sure you will benefit from any change.

install is everything.

 

I didn’t pay cash, but with trade and all, my payment is way less. I’m leaning towards ordering it, I just try to spend my money wisely, and this is taking some convincing myself.

 

You would get better results from deadening and a head unit than cheap speakers with nothing else changed.

 

I’m not changing the HU, and at almost 400 for just my fronts, I’m not feeling they are cheap to my budget, but that’s good to hear your opinion that deadening makes that much of a difference.

 

@Spare Parts, it’s not necessary to go nuts and cover every square inch. Some people are insane and basically add so much weight in dampening it affects their gas mileage.

For the average guy, yes it is worth treating the doors for vibration, using good quality brackets, and weatherstripping/gaskets. It’s not going to alter your reality, your truck won’t be quiet as a church, but you do want to take reasonable steps to mitigate panel flex.

 

You have the panel off already. For me? Yes. You also dont need to go ape shit like i do. A few cut pieces, here and there will do a ton of work. I want to seal the front baffle/panel. Doing that, will help the driver in the baffle 10 fold. Buy your driver of choice. Hook it up free air and play it. Then, put it in a enclosure. Tell me which sounds better. It will be zero contest. Just me, but,....... I will ALWAYS add some deadener. Not just to kill vibrations. Location, direction, time alinement/EQ love/install, is more than just buying decent , or aftermarket gear. You have the panel off already. That is the time.

But of course. Its up to you. And again, not only does it seal off the panel, making the driver you chose, act like its in a actual enclosure. It will help with everything else. Any door vibrations, change the cabin resonance, and more. Again. Just me. You do you mate. Cheers.

 

EDIT- also,.. ive bought the B stock from second skin. Ive used it more, than the legit packs. Save you some money there. And again, you dont need to go ham. But,.. i do. Im in there at that moment,.. i like to just full coverage it, and make sure the front baffle/panel, is SEALED from the inner door (the volume for the driver). But again. Just me.

 

Dang, I just ordered 32 square feet of the Dynamat stuff from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020CB2S?ie=UTF8), with gift cards and credits, I got it down to 116. Thanks for the feedback.

 

It will work also. Mass is mass..... get it applied good, and soak all that ish up mate. Best of luck my guy. (youll be fine)

 

you seem to really know this stuff.. my rear hatch rattles like crazy even with the factory speakers. I'm not trying to compete but planning to upgrade speakers a few notches. Crutchfield is wanting to sell me Dynamat to reduce the rattle...just wanted to get your thoughts on whether that will work vice something else. I just want to careful what I install back there cos of the sliding rear window-needs a lot of space to move.

 

I just did all 4 doors, rear hatch, and rear floor area. Front doors got 100% coverage on the inner skin with second skin damplifier pro, and then the speaker mounting part of the door got covered with sound skins classic deadener. The plastic door panel got covered with sound skin “wavy foam decoupling and sound insulating foam”

the rear doors got full coverage with sound skin deadener, foam layer.
Rear hatch got the least amount of coverage with deadener but got foam treatment on the plastic panel.

rear cargo area got full coverage with sound skin deadener.
In total 13.5sqft damplifer pro
36sqft sound skin deadener
32sqt sound skin wavy foam.

Stereo sound quality showed improvements. Haven’t driven far enough yet to comment on road noise after a prolonged drive.

I like the damplifier pro best between the 2 deadener products and when the time comes I’ll use it on the roof and add an acoustic insulating material like thinsulate over it before the headliner goes back up.

 

Any issues with the rear hatch opening or staying opened? I ve heard adding deadening increases weight and eventually the struts fail.

After the doors, I plan to do the hatch now.

 

I did maybe 2sqft of deadener so maybe only 1.4lbs. And the foam on the panel is maybe 1lb total no issues with it closing on its own. It is my least covered panel since the factory deadener was “decent” considering i unplugged the rear speakers to only run a front stage