What is a good "performance" air filter you guys are using with these rigs?

What is a good "performance" air filter you guys are using with these rigs?

I read somewhere the TRD one is being discontinued. So what are you guys using? Please paste part numbers if you have them.

 

I'm using the AFE Pro Dry S. Butt and ear dyno don't notice a difference. I do like that it's washable.

Haven't had the engine apart yet to see if it's letting dust by and scouring the insides of the cylinders.

https://afepower.com/afe-power-31-10208-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter

 

K&N is what I use on all the filters. A bit pricier but they seem to last more.

 

Pretty happy with K&N

 

fyi many dudes will say no - you should use Wix, or genuine Toyota paper filters, as there is worries with K&N questioning how well it filters dust. But K&N 33-2438 has done me just fine, washable and sh*t so I haven't had to replace often.

 

This^

Plus if you over oil a K&N, it will cause residue on the mass airflow sensor.

Stick with OEM, especially it you off road in dusty environments.

 

OEM because a filter does nothing. I even run OEM in the TRD airbox.

 

I use Wix, not opposed to K&N but I did have the issue with the mass air flow sensor. Ended up just having to clean it and that worked. I think the issue is over oiling after re-wash. I am guilty of that.

 

Depends on what you mean by performance? High filtration performance for doing dusty trails and just generally keeping dust out of the engine? Or high airflow performance for a slight boost in acceleration/power?

If filtration is the goal, then OE.

If you want to boost acceleration by a horsepower or two, the air filter isn’t the place to do it, especially for a 4runner that might end up sucking dust at some point. Not worth the risk.

If you’re ever bored, hold up a K&N filter to the sun, and count how many pinholes you can see that let light directly through. They really don’t filter that all that much. It’s fine for a race engine that get’s rebuilt frequently, but it might cause longevity issues for a daily driver, for very little benefit.

 

I concur!

 

I installed an S&B cold air intake. About $300. It allows 43% additional air intake, which has improved performance in terms of engine response.

 

My buddy gave me a brand new K&N for my 2011 Pro-4x Xterra (he didnt want to put it in his X), it fouled my MAF within two days.

 

Remember, even if the CAI does improve airflow into the engine by 43%, if you don't increase the exhaust airflow by the same amount, you've gained pretty much nothing.

 

OEM or Wix

 

Shitty

Can't go all in believing everything you hear; literally never had any issues multiple winters and summers. No maf residue malfunctions. But hell I barely even have to clean it - my wife drives the truck majority of the year 5 min to work in our town. And let just say I don't have or need a snorkel. K&N works well for me

 

That being said, I din always run k&N but wanted to try, and I don't plan to forever because of the obvious long term oil build up risk. And although it's durable I hear it only stops approx 85% of debris as it's letting a lil more air in.

OP did ask, what "performance" filter do you recommend. I'm interested to know what would ya'll say is Wix or OEM paper better "performance"

 

I've been using an AEM washable filter for over 100k miles. Currently it has 108+k on the ticker.
I wash it every other oil change.
Back when we bought our '16 in 12-2015, the price of the AEM was 3 times the price of a factory filter but, I was in it for the long haul and didn't look back.
I also run an AEM in my '03 TJ. Currently it has 88+k miles. Admittedly the TJ see more dirt roads but, the intake tube and TB stay
clean.

 

Save your money, no such thing as a performance air filter

 

K&N = snake oil

 

If you really want some filtration, then run a snorkel like they do down in Straya.

 

I’m pretty sure I’ve even seen inertial particle separators mounted on top of snorkels for even more filtration.

 

OEM, performance air filters are a gimmick

 

But seriously, use a dry paper filter.

 

I used one a while back that added a lot of power, it was really neat. It spun to drive the engine harder, seemed like it was driven by the exhaust.

Anything else is a waste, the engine will not gain enough noticeable power to offset the costs of letting your engine suck more dust.

 

The best performance will always come from a clean OEM/ non-restrictive filter.

 

Dry filters are the best. I'm running an injen intake which i like. Easy install, easy to clean, and I got it cheap. I had a s&b intake in my tacoma( which i also liked). Pretty much you won't feel much if any increase in performance. Sounds good though.

 

That's called a turbo charger, minus the exhaust part.

 

Another cluster fuck air filter thread.

 

But if you are serious, I doubt you mean an actual turbo. Since most people would remember for sure if they installed a turbo.


But maybe it’s this you’re talking about?

But these aren’t driven by exhaust. They just go inside the the intake tube and literally impede airflow due to the space it takes up in the intake tube, and the energy it takes to windmill the toy fan. The bearings are cheap toy things as well and usually fall apart and get ingested directly into the engine. Physics dictates these will reduce power, not increase it. Also, they don’t filter air because you install these after the air filter.

 

Yeah I was talking about a turbo.

I did mean an actual turbo. I'm aware they don't filter. I was shitposting and I'm sad y'all couldn't tell I was joking, I'll try harder next time.