ARB skid plate bundle, good for the rocks?

Looking to add skid plates here soon. I’ve been wheeling without aftermarket skid plates or sliders for a while now, so far I’ve been lucky, but after my last outing my OEM skids look like a crumpled mess.



These seem like a good deal. Beefier than stock yet lighter than most other steel skid plates. Great price for what you get as well.
I know they’re not as durable as some other skid plate offerings like CBI, RCI, etc. Has anyone here ran the ARBs? How durable are they ?

Attached are examples from my last few group runs. Not “hardcore” rock crawling, but definitely a fair amount of rocks.

https://www.4runnerlifestyle.com/pr...Lr3jzXGot9UzM30meqRwL2GaK3RbCqzxoCwNEQAvD_BwE

 

I have a set on my '20 4R Pro. I agree-the OEM crap under the transmission is basically a stone shield, as is the fuel tank skid. The TRD aluminum front plate is pretty good, except for the grille vent area they punched in it. One well placed rock in the shade, and I cracked it in the middle of the vent area. Enter the ARB skids. They don't cover the same amount of real estate as the OEM front plate, but they cover the important parts. As a bonus, you don't need to remove anything to change the oil anymore. But they do work pretty well. They are pretty close to 3/16 steel (5mm i think)I do have a small dent on the engine mid plate-I hit HARD. You can kind of see the trans section in the picture. It hangs past the cross member just enough to protect your exhaust cross over pipe. The protection for the transfer case is a bigger shield that bolts on to the case itself where the OEM one sits. With the different fab shops out there, I would 100% get the ARB skids again. They don't cover like a set of C4 or RCI plates. They also don't cost over $1,000 and weigh well over 100 lbs for the set. I'm not into rock crawling, so they work for me. I would maybe invest in a steel fuel tank skid from a fab shop (C4, RCI; mine is from Victory 4x4). You have a plastic tank being covered by a thin stamped piece of metal, right in front of the rear tires, and it's hanging low. It was actually my first upgrade. The sliders were installed prior to me picking up the vehicle.

 

How do you access the oil filter housing? The ARB engine skid doesn't have an access panel for that, unless something's changed recently.

 

You can get to it from the side. There is a hole to get the drain plug out.

 

I run this kit on my 2016 I highly recommend it - it's thick strong steel and I've only caused some scratches from rocks. I always take some of my skids off when I get oil changes done (which is also good for cleaning and rust checking) but I didn't realize that hole will suffice for the drain plug;

 

Thanks to those of you with them installed for the insight. I’m in the same boat as the OP and these have always been intriguing but almost seemed like too good of a deal.

 

Right!? I bought them thinking it was an expensive engine skid, cuz the photo only showed one piece. Pleasantly surprised is was a 4-piece kit, including nice spacers and hardware.

 

It's nice to see some folks happy with this kit. I've been debating skids on a "budget" build and these were on top of the list. Anyone know what the entire kit weighs?

 

Yes, about 57 lbs.
Good old pressed & folded 3mm steel

 

Compared to RCI, CBI, Budbuilt, etc., the ARB kit is missing a proper transfer case skid, just a small "diaper" that bolts to transfer case instead of the frame, so it can't support the vehicle's weight. An unlucky hit will crack the transfer case and leave you stranded.

The mainstream designs typically include an extra bolt-on crossmember to support the T-case skid on the frame.

 

Since the ARB skid is thinner at 1/8" instead of the normal 3/16" steel, an access door would be too weak (i.e. the door would be mangled and unusable after the first obstacle).

Either finagle the filter from the side or just drop the front skid like the factory tinfoil skid. If necessary, support it with a hydraulic jack while you loosen the bolts with an impact. The ARB design separates the front skid from the engine skid, unlike most other manufacturers, so it's easier to do.

 

I didn't know all that, valuable information thanks dude

Like you say, it would be an unlucky hit in reality, a very unlucky hit. I can't even see the tcase skid in low front photos. Could probably agree the ARB strength and coverage is satisfactory for it's price. Also just a handful of bolts to remove for oil access, I don't mind.
If you're not a rock crawler, and a moderate wheeler, your prolly ight

 

Thanks for the replies everyone.