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Cracked block…

Discussion in '3rd Gen 4Runners (1996-2002)' started by static346, Sep 1, 2023.

  1. Sep 1, 2023 at 5:41 PM
    #1
    static346

    static346 [OP] New Member

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    143AD9A5-41E4-4C49-82D1-FB7B583322B9.png 2000 4Runner 3.4 v6

    I had an oil leak from the oil pressure switch. So I in my infinite wisdom thought it would be a simple fix. Wrong. Upon installing the new switch all was well with zero leaks. Come the next day it had developed a massive leak. Long story short, it I over tightened a $15 part and now my block is cracked where the switch mounts to the engine. Putting a feeler out to see if anyone has any experience or insight on this. I currently live in the anchorage area in Alaska. So if anyone knows a good place to acquire a new block, or a good shop in the area it would be greatly appreciated.
     
    Mojave likes this.
  2. Sep 1, 2023 at 5:46 PM
    #2
    Mojave

    Mojave New Member

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    I would try some JB weld and a metal hose clamp. best of luck.
     
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  3. Sep 1, 2023 at 5:52 PM
    #3
    RumHamRunner73

    RumHamRunner73 Dead on with a zero

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    Crossing my fingers with JB weld, But that looks to be a large crack directly into an oil gallery just from the picture.
     
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  4. Sep 1, 2023 at 5:55 PM
    #4
    static346

    static346 [OP] New Member

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    I’m gonna try it. Worst case It still leaks and am back to square one
     
  5. Sep 1, 2023 at 5:59 PM
    #5
    RumHamRunner73

    RumHamRunner73 Dead on with a zero

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    Rock on, Clean it off really good with brake clean and give it at least 10-12 hours to seal up good and tight before starting up.Keep us updated, i will be crossing my fingers that this helps you out.

    Added bonus, older brothers name is Charles, So I am pulling for ya!
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2023
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  6. Sep 1, 2023 at 6:01 PM
    #6
    Mojave

    Mojave New Member

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    other options mite be if you know welder who can weld aluminum. it looks like it in a good place to get to. it worth a try before you buy a block.
     
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  7. Sep 1, 2023 at 6:02 PM
    #7
    static346

    static346 [OP] New Member

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    Appreciate. I’ll let y’all know. Yeah Charles was my grandfathers name so I gotta live up
     
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  8. Sep 1, 2023 at 6:14 PM
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    Mojave

    Mojave New Member

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    my grandfather, my great, my great great, my great great great all Charles
     
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  9. Sep 1, 2023 at 6:23 PM
    #9
    RumHamRunner73

    RumHamRunner73 Dead on with a zero

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    Isn't the 3.4 cast iron in regards to the block material? Using aluminum heads?
     
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  10. Sep 1, 2023 at 6:54 PM
    #10
    Mojave

    Mojave New Member

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    • The Toyota 3.4 engine is part of the Toyota VZ engine lineup, specifically the 5VZ-FE. This line is known for its cast iron block, aluminum heads and low-angle dual overhead cams cylinder and architecture, providing good mid-range torque.
    • I got this from yahoo, you are correct Rumham.
     
  11. Sep 1, 2023 at 7:23 PM
    #11
    static346

    static346 [OP] New Member

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    Well the deed is done. Just waiting till tomorrow to start it up. Just hoping I got jb weld over the whole crack. Hard to see what you’re doing sometimes.

    time to do some sketchy shit do daa do daa I hope I get away with it
     
  12. Sep 1, 2023 at 8:26 PM
    #12
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Kwik Fab

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    Ideally you'd drill at the end of the crack to prevent it from getting worse.

    Being that it's the block, and still installed, that's tough to do without getting metal from going inside.

    You want to preheat the block and TIG with nickel iron rod as your filler.

    Afterward, you'll want the block to cool slowly.
     
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  13. Sep 2, 2023 at 1:29 PM
    #13
    static346

    static346 [OP] New Member

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    Welp it didn’t work. Still leaking like crazy
     
  14. Sep 2, 2023 at 2:46 PM
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    Deltaman

    Deltaman New Member

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    Ham fisted gorilla!

    IMG_2295.png
     
  15. Sep 2, 2023 at 3:01 PM
    #15
    RumHamRunner73

    RumHamRunner73 Dead on with a zero

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    Sorry to hear this, I know you will hate to hear this, But at this point either you pull it out or have a capable welder attempt (probably with no type of warranty due to the unknown severity of the crack) to repair it to the best of their availability.
     
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  16. Sep 2, 2023 at 3:32 PM
    #16
    static346

    static346 [OP] New Member

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    I’m toying with a few options. Be nice to find a donor with a good motor. Also I could just buy a new short block for like 3500. Or I could drop the 7k and have a shop do the whole thing. At any rate there goes my funds to build it :( I wanted to get a supercharger for her but I can’t do that now lol. All that for a small leak :/
     
  17. Sep 2, 2023 at 3:39 PM
    #17
    static346

    static346 [OP] New Member

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    That being said, I know there were two different blocks used in certain years of the 3.4. Mine is a 2000. Anyone know what years are compatible or what the difference in the blocks are?
     
  18. Sep 2, 2023 at 4:14 PM
    #18
    Trekker

    Trekker Regular Member

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    I've never heard of any differences in the 5vz block itself (I'm not saying its impossible). What I can say for sure is there are numerous and poorly documented revisions to components like the exhaust manifold and throttle system.

    Yours is likely closer to earlier 5vz because in 2001 the 5vz became drive by wire-ish (it's pseudo DBW). Thanks to California there are potential differences in exhaust manifold and system, which you should be more worried about. I can't tell you the fine details.

    Really surprised how easily the blocked cracked, it's an iron block. You can only stick weld cast iron, I would ask a few shops to see how confident they would be to attempt it before throwing in the towel.
     
  19. Sep 2, 2023 at 11:58 PM
    #19
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Kwik Fab

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    Build it?

    Upgrades are cheap for these rigs so you can easily build it out unless you're going solid axle or long travel.

    As for the block, 5VZs are a dime a dozen. Can find them cheap all over, even as a long block.

    Just get it welded up as I mentioned.
     

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