Where should I connect to the fuse box for light bar install

Hi: I have a light bar that's installed on my C4 lo-pro front bumper, I want to connect it to a factory style switch (Already bought) which can light up when you turn the lights on. I'm trying to find the best fuse location to use for this. I also bought these add a fuse things that should plug into the factory fuse location to add the accessories.

I have looked around but not certain which fuse will be best for this. There are videos showing fuse location by the driver side door, but mine (2023 TRD premium) has a very small box where many people has a very large fuse box. The only large fuse box I can find is behind the battery.

Does anyone have any suggestion or have some video or threads that talks about this?

Below is what I'm trying to mount, I built this little platform so I don't need to relocate any factory parts.

 

Hi. As you seem to be adding a fuse block, why not use one of those fuses, and avoid the factory fuse boxes altogether? Just add a relay and you’re good to go.

 

Agreed use the blue sea fuse block and avoid tapping factory fuses that will undoubtedly create headaches later.

 

If you are only running the light bar. All I did your wire from the light bar goes on the positive and negative battery. Then I added the push button in the one blank spot on the left and wired that to the push button wire also ran it thru the firewall. It’s easy to reach the push button to turn the light bar on. Hope this helps.

 

By no means am I an expert installer but wouldn’t you need a fuse in the install you described. I added a switch panel since I knew I’d be adding more lights and didn’t want to be running wires to the cab each time. Not only does it give a very clean install look but has the relays and fuses built in. Also now with the panel it literally takes 30 minutes to add lights or accessories

 

Can you supply a parts list for what you did...that looks like a better option rather than connecting to the factory fuse box. Thanks

 

Yes, and unless you know the amps that the lights pull and the rating of the dash switch, a relay would be prudent too.

 

@Texas4Runner

Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block. Have a look at this 12 circuit fuse block that may be more versatile depending on your needs.

 

It’s much better and safer. I went with the auxbeam panel. Super clean install. I am by no means a master mechanic and I installed it. There is a grommet on the firewall to run the main wire into the cabin. Pop that grommet and here is the trick. Take a flat blade screw driver. A big one and push hard. I mean hard. There is carpet/padding that you’re pushing against. Push hard. It will puncture the carpet. Then just fish the wire through. The best part is once you get it installed you then have 20 minute installs for future lights.

 

I also ran my fog lights (diode dynamics) directly to this auxbeam. Now I can turn the fog lights on/off without having to turn on the headlights. You won’t be disappointed. DM me if you have any further questions.

 

Yes the wire has a fuse in it. I’m only running one light bar and the wire comes with a fuse. Hope this helps.

 

Welcome.

The aluminum mounting plate looks great but will be a large ground area if it is not isolated from the chassis. Water + positive power cables + large ground area = possible fire. There is a reason auto manufacturers use ABS plastic fuse blocks and not metal.

 

Second the switch panel recommendation I paired the power tray set up with a SwitchPro 9100. You already have the home fab tray and fuse block so you could just get the AuxBeam or SwitchPro panel.

 

Take a peek here @ post #5 : https://www.4runners.com/threads/saker’s-ebony-build.25629/


As stated, connect to your blue sea. Be sure to use a relay and an AOB switch and you can control it thru the switch from your built Aux Circuit.
Never use current from existing circuits to run any mod ..... always use a relay, then draw power from the battery.

 

I think the AuxBeam/SwitchPro panels are an ingenious solution, but they don’t constitute a “clean install”, IMHO.

@Saker: great thread.

 

I’m interested in what you consider a clean install then. You see no wires and the unit bolts cleanly to the fender and looks factory. So I’m curious what you would consider clean then

 

I was being sincere what they believe is clean. All the write ups are great. Good conversation. I judge clean by how it blends in and if the wires are hidden like it came from the factory. I’m asking because if that’s not the definition of clean I was wanting to know what clean is.

 

Listen we don’t have to get all huffy. Like I said the SwitchPro and AuxBeam systems are brilliant. But they don’t look factory, in my opinion. But that’s me. If you have the AuxBeam system and love it, use it and be proud.

But since you ask, something like this is what I consider clean. (Minus the goofy switch labels.)

 

I'm thinking I will paint the finished surface with a rubberized product, that should cut down on the grounding concerns

 

Thanks to everyone for your input. I have been away for a while, back to travel for work after a long shutdown, got sick on during the trip, wasn't covid. Then hurt my foot, and just feeling lazy in general. Now finally back to doing things again.

Thanks a lot for your link Saker, beautiful setup. This is close to what I want to do. I like your rear tire mount very much. I think I will add this as well some time soon.

For the circuit, I have bought a switch that will fit in the factory opening near the other switches to the left side. I imagine my setup for the fog light will be similar to your raptor light setup. It seems you connected the AOB illumination to the wiper warmer circuit. Did you just splice the wire? If I don't have this wiper warmer circuit, any suggestion for other circuit? I guess it is only for the purpose to illuminate the AOB?

It looks like you connected the AOB power directly to the 12V with a 3A fuse. I don't know if my understanding is correct. The main reason I want to connect the AOB switch to a factory circuit that's controlled by aux key is so when you turn off the car, it will turn off the light in case you forget. Does this sound right? That would make sense if the power to the AOB is turned off when the car is shut off, thus turning the light off as well? If the AOB power is connected directly to the battery, you will need to turn off the light manually.

 

If you want to take a look at my build thread. I think it's the 5th post goes over electrical, switches etc. If that looks at all like anything you want to do, I can go into as much detail as you like. It was important for me to put everything on relays.
https://www.4runners.com/threads/crows-2021-orp-super-white.32685/

 

If the only switch you're going to have is the light bar....and you know you're not going to be running any other accessories on switches, I would consider just zip tying everything under the dash.

These lights usually come with or have an optional wiring harness purchase with a relay. Why not just put it all under the dash? You don't need a fuse block and everything just for 1 light bar.

 

Thanks for sharing your build. The package I bought did come with the relay and things, but I want to make it a clear looking install. I like the separate fuse box. I saw your post and 1 picture in particular, which shows a connection to the 3rd fuse location on the left side, it seems you pull the power from there, and if you turn the car off, it will cut the power to the switch and turn off the light. Is this correct?

I need to look at that fuse box. I believe I have the same thing at the same location, I remember opening the cover, but didn't see any spare spots and couldn't tell what each location is for. Will investigate further.

Although I'm only putting 1 light in at this time, I would like to make this as clear as possible. Not that great at keep things neat in the past, but I figured I will try. As they say: "How you do anything is how you do everything", hope it's not too late for me to change.

 

I have ignition on coming from the fuse box under the dash in the cab running up to my relay box in the engine bay which triggers a relay, which then turns my switches on, which then can trigger the other relays.

so one of the 6 relays is used to turn on the switches leaving 5 relays for accessories. Currently have my light bar as well as raptor lights (that was not necessary and I would wire that directly to a switch) on relays. the plan originally was to use relays for lights on the roof rack but after going out a lot, I just don't drive trails at night so have not been motivated. And then the other reason I have raptor lights on a switch is I wasn't sure if I liked them and wanted to have the option to let my wife have them on and me have them off.

One thing I did which (and maybe this is a no brainer thing) I liked was to purchase connector plug with pigtails on them so I did not have the pin the connectors which plugs the relay box into all the wiring for the switches. Makes the relay box very serviceable. It's very easy to remove it when I need to wire future relays up. Plugs can be seen in the bottom of these pictures. And then sleeves zip tied and heat shrink wrapped at the ends.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Thank you!
Yes, the illumination for the AOB switch is to the wiper warmer illumination wire and I used a posi-tap to connect to that wire. You could use another illumination circuit if you don’t have a wiper warmer switch.



So, my switch circuit is pulling its power from the tail circuit that goes off when my inhibition goes off. Main power to the lights actually come from the aux power circuit thru a relay that is triggered with the tail light circuit. I can control the light circuit with my AOB switch only when the ignition is on and tail circuit is hot.
AOB switch depressed with engine off = no light.
AOB switch depressed with engine on = light on.
AOB switch not depressed with engine on = no light.
I always run everything thru a relay and fuse everything.
Hope this helps, if not just ask.

 

Nice setup. Who makes that relay box?

 

Thank you. Wanted it to look clean. Like you said.

This cheap guy off Amazon. You have to put it all together; put all the pins for each connection. Some assembly required but it was fun.

$30 True Mods 12V DC Auto Waterproof Fuse 5-Pin Relay Box Block Kit [6 Bosch Style Relay Holder] [6 ATC/ATO Fusible Holder] [Relays & Fuses Included] Universal Relay for Vehicles Cars Marine Boat Jeep

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KHVHLL5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

It’s good that you can assemble it any way you want. For example, if you want a mix of switched and unswitched 12v sources.

 

Looks like you accomplished a clean setup and at a very reasonable pricing. I like it. Looks like you make the mounting tray to fit without covering any crucial components.

 

I like this setup very much. I have already cut some holes in the platform I made, but I'm going to get this thing and see about making it work. Just means more delays, but I want to make it right. Will be reading up on your thread and make sure I'm clear on what I need to do. This is great info, can't thank you enough.

Saker: Your setup is basically how I was going to do it, now with the additional info from Thacrow, I'm going to see about making some adjustments. The wiring illustration is great. Thank you.