Fluid Film spray wand?

Has anyone used the Fluid Film wand nozzle that attaches to the spray cans? If so does it work? If not is there a better wand out there? I don’t have an air compressor and will be using spray cans. Thanks

 

I used one with my woolwax spray cans. Just Make sure to push straigt down on the can when soraying, otherwise, the tip on the can can get cockeyed and start loosing product under the tip.

 

I have had bad luck with them. If you have a small pancake compressor the Wool Wax Kit is worth it.

 

I tried it with my Woolwax cans. They work well for about 5 minutes. And by well, I mean they work, but it's not a mist that comes out. It's more like 5 streams that come out. They're ok for deep into cavities, but not good for the general areas.

 

Do you guys find that after treating the frame the undercarriage gets coated in dirt/dust and it gets generally nasty if doing maintenance like changing oil and greasing driveline zerks? Also does it cause rubber bushings to swell up? How about door weatherstripping? I saw a Utube where a guy sprayed the bottom of his doors and the weatherstripping traps the fluid film between the door and rubber and it swelled up some to where he said he may have to replace weatherstripping every 3 years? Did you spray inside the doors from the bottom thru drain holes. I would be somewhat concerned about getting it on wiring and controls inside the door. I’m trying to evaluate if living in SC warrants treating the vehicle or just inspecting and treating any corrosion I can see. Mainly treating inside the frame holes and around the spare tire. Thanks

 

I use woolwax, which is a bit thicker than fluid film. Woolwax will look like absolute crap after running it through mud. I dont care, since with a little WD-40, I can clean any area I plan to work on, or just deal with a little extra mess. After you get enough dust on it, it really doesnt feel wet.

Whenever I reapply a woolwax touch up, to the frame, I spray right over the top of the old stuff, and it builds up in layers.

After any trip that involves mud, I thouroughly rinse out my undercarriage and spray lots of water inside the frame rails to make sure they are cleared out. The coating doesnt wash off, especially after it has been saturated with particulates from dust/mud. However, that means it’s the color of the last puddle you’ve been through.

This is what mine looks like after I washed off the mud from an off-road trip. It’s a beautiful color and texture if you ask me. I call it “Saharan Warlord Beige”




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If you work on your own rig, spray woolwax or fluid film with discretion around the areas you’ll be working around the most. Yes, I would avoid rubber, not necessarily because it swells, but because rubber bits are meant to move in some way and you don’t want grit on them the woolwax attracts. So nothing on the cv boots, weatherstripping, front splash shields… I would skip spraying it in the holes at the bottoms of doors…some of the mist traveled to the glass swiper weatherstripping and now my windows get grease lines on them sometimes as they go up and down.

 

McSpazatron, do you live in the rust belt? Or another area that gets roads salted frequently ? Just wondering if you think the undercoating is needed even if not much salt on roads? My 2016 Tacoma was not undercoated here in SC and there were a few spots starting to show some corrosion over 7 years. I just lightly sanded them and painted them. I only had that truck 7 years and planning to keep this ORP 15. I’m thinking of doing inside the frame holes for now. Then annually treating any spots I can see. Your advice is appreciated. I will avoid the inside of doors. And when I do treat the outside of frame, I’ll avoid rubber and the exhaust system. Thanks

 

Yeah, I live in the rust belt. Honestly, if you don’t get that much salt, maybe just keeping it clean is all you need.

The rust thing is about vigilance mostly, and keeping it away requires good cleanings. If you dont coat the frame, then make sure to wash the frame out after any use of road salt/brine without waiting too long. Rust is most active when salt, moisture, and mild temps exist together.