My 3” lift is a Revtek

Based on what little I know, this just pushes the lower control arm down to fit larger tires. It basically removes all the downtravel from the wheel and turns it into uptravel.

My goal is to have a rig to do some pretty tough trails. So I’m gonna ditch this lift and just get extended length coil overs. Then I’m gonna tub it enough to fit 35s and lose the front sway bar.

I think I’ll try running some lunchbox lockers on 5.38:1 or 4.88:1 gears (it’s an auto).

 

Keep it at an inch lift to inch and a half, you'll appreciate the droop.

Unless you meant long travel, there's only mid travel and long travel.

5.29s for 35s.

Selectable locker up front.

 

Wait, you're the dude that asked about lifts recently.

What thread are you sticking with?

 

I’m still learning about my rig. I bought someone else’s parking lot queen. Didn’t find any mud underneath, so I’m guessing it never made it off pavement.

I’m also learning a lot about Toyotas and how to make them perform off-road. My experience has all been with Jeep Cherokees. http://xjguy.com/xj/2000xj.jpg

Forgive me if I seem like I’m all over the place. It’s just a lot of new information.

 

Having dealt with Ox locker failures way back in 2005-2008, I’ve avoided selectable lockers for a long time. Are the Eaton E-lockers worth the money? My last rig, a 97 XJ, had lunchbox lockers front and rear and aside from the clicking, performed as well as the Detroit lockers I used to replace my Ox lockers.

 

More specifically Harrop, but yes by Eaton.

ECGS probably the biggest name in offering 3rds with lockers installed (or you send in your own 3rd to them). They'll tell you they haven't had a single Harrop fail at all.

Others would suggest ARB, and they're fine, but I don't like the idea of running air lines and worrying about a seal needing replacement every couple of years.

I suggest selectable up front as you don't want it engaging unexpectedly, especially with how light these vehicles are.

As for learning the rig, as I mentioned - better interior build quality and smoother ride than an XJ, less aftermarket support, and slight limitations in terms of wheel travel. Plus side is our axles aren't as weak as it's the ring/pinion gears you'll break before you twist an axle shaft or something (unless you're being dumb and bouncing off shit and hitting the throttle).

 

I’ll say this. The 4Runner owners seem to think they can run 35s without too much issue. As a 35/36 fan (from my 2 XJs), I’m fine with running 35s. Planning to ask the local rub and tub to do me dirty and hack off whatever gets too hot. LOL.

Seriously though I think e-lockers up front and a Detroit in the rear on 5.29s is the ticket. After watching someone stuff 37s, 35s seem like light work.

 

Don't see any real off-roaders on this forum, they're on the sister forum really. With that said, it just takes cutting into the firewall as far back as the body mount and welding up some 16-18 gauge steel for the clearance you need.

The CV axles will handle them fine, it's the ring and pinion gears that are the weak point unless you shock load your shit while trying to bump over something that you'll break a CV axle.

But yeah 35's do fit with enough cutting.

Make sure you at least have OEM CV axles as store part variants don't articulate as well and will actually lose you wheel travel, specifically droop.

 

My old 4Runner, King 2.5 front and rears and other yummy doodads