Low/zero maintenance lift?

Looking for some suggestions from the knowledgeable folks on here.. I have a 23 with KDSS, and am looking at some AT tires that will add a bit of height due to the more aggressive tread. I would like to lift the front and back (just a little), like an inch or inch and a half tops. This would be to accommodate the new tires as well as to make up for what I lose when I air down. This will be a mostly on road vehicle and I really don't want to introduce a lot of risk of increased maintenance. My questions are:

1) is an inch or inch and a half safe (any impacts)?
2) what is the most economical way of doing this?

Thank you

 

To keep it economical, you may want to look at Bilstein to keep cost under control.

A small lift may keep the rear KDSS swaybar from binding on anything. A higher lift brings a lot more factors into play.

If you go past two inches, I recommend Treaty Offroad's KDSS spacers in the rear, an Eimkeith or DR KDSS panhard correction kit, and the front KDSS bushing brackets that DR KDSS released this weekend.

Lift's don't really do much for running larger tires, as the arc of movement remains the same. For 285s, you may need a little surgery on the front mud flaps.

 

I was doing the one inch of the left front spring ... also the right front spring is the lower of the spacer nuts ...the back springs are very good ...
I did the alignment of the steering .. tie rods ....7 yrs ago tires are great average all the treads , rotate the tires every year ...

 

Bilstein 5100's or Eibach adjustable shocks with your stock coils up front would probably suit you best. Add a small spacer to the rear if you want to do any lifting back there.

I personally like the ride of the Eibachs better. They give you a more controlled ride than stock without being harsh.

0.85 or 1.6" lift up front max. You'll still be able to keep your stock UCAs.

You'll be out a few hundred bucks.

 

What size tires are you going with?

 

When I do switch tires I think I will go with the same size as stock 265/70/17, but maybe in the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT, which have a little larger diameter (I believe) due to the knobbier tire. Also, those are supposed to still have a decent ride on road, 60k warranty and 3 peak snow rated for the times that is needed out here in the Pacific North West.

 

A friend of mine got a set of those recently. He seems very happy with them so far. Good choice!

If you stick with the stock size, any difference in size is just a variation between manufacturers, and would be negligible.

 

You can fall down a rabbit hole of researching lifts here, haha.

In a nutshell, I'm just going to give you a few tidbits that I know.

Generally speaking lift, does not actually make room for larger tires on these with the relatively small size of the wheel well and the way the suspension works. Alignment and wheel specs make a big impact on what tire you can actually fit.

A stock size all-terrain will look larger than the factory tire, simply because of the more aggressive tread. It won't give you any noticeable lift or clearance, however, it will definitely fill out the wheel well a little better.

You have a brand new 40 or 50 something thousand dollar vehicle, don't cheap out on suspension. Lot of people will tell you buy once, cry once. You can throw on spacers or low end bilstein's, but you may or may not be happy with that result.

There is a YouTube channel called Tinkerer's Adventures, he puts out some extremely detailed videos on Toyota IFS systems and the advantages and disadvantages of lifting them. I highly recommend you check those out before making any decisions.

That said, after watching most of those myself, I decided to go with the Eibach Pro 2.0 coilovers, with rear reservoir shocks. It currently retails for around 1600 bucks, and has a lifetime warranty and very good user reviews. I plan on keeping the stock size tires, and keeping the lift to 2 inches front, 1 in rear.

If I didn't go with this, my second choice would have been Dobson's IMS, and if I had a larger budget I would have went with OME BP51's.

 

1) Depends where you go. You mentioned airing down. Makes me think you wanna go where there will be impacts, some may absorb the full weight of the truck. Armor is your protection.
2) Economical lift? I have this one. Been to Moab twice. I do the Red trails. Rides nice on the hiway, too. I highly recommend.
https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-1-to-3-5-build-a-kit-toyota-4runner-5th-gen/

 

This is the only economical way to lift a 4Runner

 

Why not put the car on the jack stands and without weight on the springs take a torch to them. That’s how they used to lower cars in the old days.

Do the opposite, just stretch them out a bit.

 

Since you are sticking with the stock size (a very wise choice) you do not need any lift. If you want to level it a bit, either 1/4" or 1/2" (will net 1/2" or 1" of lift) spacers up front will give you that without any real alignment headaches and keep the stock ride. As others have said, the best and least expensive actual lift would be Bilstein or Eibach shocks at the first clip.

 

We have 12,000 trouble-free on-off-road miles on this setup:

Dobinson’s upper control arms
Dobinson’s springs
Dobinson’s shocks
Treaty oak KDSS spacers

All bought from @Crikeymike at Exitoffroad.

ended up with about 2.5-3” lift all around with more than enough room to fit 285/70 r17’s with no rubbing.

80 on the freeway.
35 around town
40mph+ in the desert
2mph on the rocks
Still fits in parking garages.

all good. Zero maintenance so far other than bolt checks and lube points.

Oh and my opinion on the most economical lift? Buy once, cry once. Take your 4runner to 2.5” and be done with it.
My opinion is that 5th gens look great on 2.5” of lift and 265 all-terrains. We rocked that look for a year or two.


Talk to Mike about your weight/cargo plans and he’ll get you squared away.

 

2.5” and 265/70 BFG’s

 

Now with 285/70-r17 BFG’s (smallish 33’s)

 

Leave it stock.

 

Yeah make sure you get HF jackstands that have been recalled 400 times for design flaws. Good choice.

 

The OP did say economical!

 

Westscott Coilover level kit will cost under $500 and give you a lift that levels the truck. Even if you move up to 285’s, you should still be alright and not have to replace UCA’s. Most importantly it doesn’t alter the ride by compressing your springs like some other lift kits do.

 

But it still compresses the springs and changes the suspension geometry, just from the other end. The only lift that doesn't change suspension function and geometry is a body lift.

 

Do a 1.5" lift at most. Some people have had uca alignment issues even at 2". Risk that if you want. Personally, I went bilstein 5100s all-around and did some 1.5" rear coil. Keep the spring rate of the rear springs as close as possible to stock and you won't have negatives. I advise that you don't do spacers, the shocks are barely more. Or just stay stock and put AT tires on and call it a day. I wouldn't worry much about preloading the front at the 1.5" setting on the bilstein's

 

Is it really that much? You can get a nice pair of coilovers for about that much.

 

Really? Even Eibach coilovers are 900 bucks.

I agree that 500 is spendy for spacers though.

 

Haven’t looked at what the price of just the front two, but here’s an entire kit for all 4 corners https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...with-rear-coils-for-2010-2022-toyota-4runner/

 

I know it sounds nitpicky, but those are shocks and springs. Coilovers are an assembled unit with front springs.

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...0_Fg8asCPbVYUwkocyuk9iKXpPrwtlvUaAueIEALw_wcB

 

$379 for unfinished stainless or $425 or something like that for a powder coated version.

I was actually going that direction when I found out that labor to install would be the same as putting in new suspension. At that point, I decided to just spend more on the materials and get the new suspension. It just made more sense for me.

 

yeah it does not make sense to pay that much for spacers.

 

I placed my trust in someone nearby who installs MANY lifts for one of the local Toyota dealerships. After going over options with him, I went with the Bilstein 6100s up front (6/4 clip for 2" lift and correct the driver side lean) which come with springs, and 5100s in the rear with the Bilstein B12 spring (1" lift). I have already been running the 275 KO2 tires since buying the ORP back in 2020. I experienced a small amount of rub with the factory setup at full lock inclines, but that's about it. I now have absolutely zero tire rub. Happy to answer any questions, although I haven't driven it very long with the new suspension. I can say it feels great behind the wheel and I'm 100% happy I didn't go with anything less than 2" up front on the 6112s. It left an ounce of rake for me to haul some weight in the rear from time to time without sitting nose high.

As for your question of impact to the vehicle, this shop owner and friend of mine has been running this combination without replacing UCAs for a long time and has had no complaints or issues coming back to his shop. 2" lift on the front felt safer with the 6112s since they're capable of going even higher. No matter what, I didn't want to max out lift settings on any components. Here's a before/after photo for you or anyone to see for reference. Good luck!

 

If you start doing a lift, remember, that will put more strain on the driver's side front axle roller bearing. You may end up needing to change it. When I "lifted" my Tacoma, using Bilsteins, I only went to 3/4" to keep from having problems. It was recommended one not go over 3/4", unless one planned on changing the bearing.