Does everyone use the oil filter housing drain?

Or do some leave that penetration sealed? I’m doing my first oil change tomorrow. On my 2016 Tacoma I always used the plastic nipple , with a piece of clear tubing attached, to drain the filter into the waste oil pan. It’s kinda neat to avoid some mess. But I have read some keep that aluminum plug and o-ring in place and just change the filter like a spin-on filter. I think it would be easier to leave that joint intact. If I leave it installed, should probably periodically replace that o-ring to avoid unanticipated leakage.

 

I used this for my first oil change and it was a breeze. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C5F5FQP?smid=A3T5KU9MQ2GAZ2

 

I use the housing drain before taking off the housing. I also switched the plastic housing for a metal one.

 

I did the first few times I don't find it any better or necessary.

 

i drain the housing before i remove since i access it through a skid plate. more often than not if i don't drain it the spill will end up on the skid.

 

Yes I do.

 

I drain the housing.

 

I use the Motivix drain. I just bought the whole oil change kit.

 

Mine came yesterday. I look forward to proving that I can change the oil without making a mess. My wife remains dubious.

 

I use the Motive drain as well

 

I used it the first time I changed the oil, haven't used it since. I feel like it's more trouble than it's worth.

 

How are you guys getting the housing off to change the filter? Seems the Motivix is in the way of using a filter wrench.

 

I don 't use the drain. I tried it the first time and the plug was over torqued and wouldn't easily come out. I'm probably on oil change 10 in my ownership and it works fine just by removing the filter housing.

 

I don’t even use the filter drain because doesn’t even help that much. I carefully remove the housing and pour the oil into a container

 

You remove the drain tool before attempting to remove the housing. There’s no pressure and oil will not drain and fill up the housing again.

 

I don't bother draining the housing. I've changed the oil on a Subaru for 12 years. The 4Runner's filter is easy compared to this:

 

From another thread:

I made this up a while ago for my daughter. It is exhaustively detailed, but it has all the part numbers and torque specs.

 

Same procedure that I use, Reinstall and torque correctly and no issues.

 

I drain mine before removing on the 4Runner and Tundra both.

 

Drain and remove.

 

Edit to clarify: I don't drain the oil filter cap prior to replacing the filter.

The Car Care nut said he doesn't do it, and one does not question the Car Care Nut. (Kidding, but the guy seriously knows his stuff)

I'll replace that O-ring every year or two maybe but otherwise, no.

 

I've always drained the filter but it is waste of time because even after trough draining bunch of oil remains in the can.

 

I use the drain hose first on the housing to drain the oil out. It's a two part threaded insert so when you screw it in to the housing it is still sealed and no oil comes out. Once it is fully threaded in you screw in the second part of the brass piece which then raises up internally and opens the inner part of the housing to allow the oil to drain out. When it is empty you reverse the process so as not to make a mess. Once the brass piece is removed I replace the gasket for the metal cap/insert and reinstall. At that point I use the Motivx filter wrench to remove the entire housing to replace the filter and filter gasket.

 

I don't drain that plastic thing doesn't stay in too well anyways.

But I still change the o ring everytime.

 

Thanx for explaining that. The video I saw for this gizmo is lacking. Makes sense now.

 

I wonder if that's because of time. It's not an incredibly profitable job and he needs to get it done quickly. He's also probably done it enough times to be good at not spilling.

 

OP here. I drained my oil today on new ORP. First change at 1542 miles. Couple observations: 1. The drain plug gasket was attached to oil pan, likely paint or heat or both? I removed the rear skid plate so I could tap the edge of gasket with a piece of wood (tapped by hammer). Used wood to avoid scratching the sealing surface of pan. I am reluctant to use a screwdriver to remove stuck gasket. Especially at the angle available without removing the rear skid plate. Once you remove the rear skid you can tap parallel to the oil pan bottom. In the future I should not have to remove the rear skid plate. 2. The filter housing drain was so tight when I inserted the ratchet extension to remove it, my applied torque removed the filter housing. So I was unable to use the drain insert nozzle. Once the housing was removed I held the housing with a strap type oil filter wrench and was able to remove the aluminum drain cap and replace the o-ring. In the future I expect I can use the housing drain since I only applied 10 ft-lbs torque installing it. I saw some fine metallic particles trapped in the filter media, by expanding the pleats out so see the deepest corners of the pleats. Not too bad but what you expect from “break-in” of new engine. It’s always a guess as to when to change the oil first during break-in. I definitely wouldn’t go 10,000 miles as I will be doing 5000 mile intervals. But I will only be putting 10,000 miles per year on this vehicle.

 

He is also working in an auto shop with a sealed floor instead of the unsealed concrete driveway of his house, so spilled oil is not a problem. I love the MotivX kit. Matched with a Fumoto drain valve or similar the oil can be changed without spilling a drop.

I had the exact same issue with the gasket with my first oil change. I used a trim removal tool to pry it off. Torquing the housing and the housing drain plug is an investment in an easy job next time.

 

Pretty much exactly my experience with my first oil change at 1,100. Good to know I wasn't the only one cursing Toyota that day lol.

 

I forgot to mention one of my rear skid plate bolts (12mm, front driver side) was very stiff going in. Felt cross- threaded but was not. I have read this can be an issue on 4 Runners. I took a rifle bore cleaning brush made of copper, put WD40 on it and sprayed in the hole. Twisted (clockwise looking up) the bore brush and unscrewed it back out, twice, more oil in between. Then I inserted a cotton cloth on another rifle bore cleaning rod, and cleaned the hole out good. Then sprayed WD40 in the hole again. Then that bolt went in very easy and torqued up well. If you cross-thread these holes you have to recut the thread with a tap set. So my advice would be if you feel a lot of resistance, first lubricate the bolt/hole. Then proceed to clean hole if necessary. Tapping new threads would be last step if needed. I just learned this is not uncommon on 4 Runenrs.