No Start + Click (Could there be a cig lighter connection)

My 1987 4Runner has a click + no start issue. I'm running through a whole list of things, but what's got me curious is how it happened and if that might be the clue that solves this mystery.

Here's what happened. On moving day, a kind friend was putting air in my tires before the long drive to our new place. He plugged his tire compressor into my cig lighter. It blew the 15amp fuse. I replaced it and the cig lighter, radio, etc. all works fine. But then the 4runner wouldn't start.

I push started it and it fired up just fine. But since then, I've got an intermittent issue. It will start 5-7 times in a row, then it will do a single click sound. I'll push start it, fire it up, and it will start up just fine again for several times before the problem comes up again.

I've replaced the 7.5 amp ignition fuse, cleaned the grounds, got a new battery, cleaned the starter relay contacts, and I have a new ignition lock coming next week. I'm hoping one of you might see a connection between the cig lighter (which seems to have incited this) and the problem. Any helpful thoughts are welcome

 

Usually, not always by any means, but usually, the "click+no start" Or "-no crank" is caused by the starter relay, the starter solenoid, or the ignition switch. Most frequently the starter solenoid. The plunger, and/or the contacts, develop corrosion buildup, preventing enough current from passing to the starter motor to make it function. There are solenoid rebuild kits readily available, or you can just get a new starter. Always go with OEM! Rebuilt is no problem, as long as it's OEM. The solenoid is removable without removing the starter entirely, IIRC, but I may be wrong on that. Never needed to do it myself.

A way to verify the starter and solenoid, thus eliminating all the rest of the circuit, is to make a jumper, long enough to reach from the battery positive terminal down to the starter. Put a female spade terminal on one end, and put it on the matching male terminal on the starter. Make CERTAIN the truck's transmission is in neutral, the transfer case is in neutral, block at least one front and the opposite rear tires, and make absolutely positive there's no one in front of or behind the truck.
Touch the stripped end of the jumper to the battery briefly. The starter should crank the engine over. Don't leave it on very long. No more than a few seconds. If you get the click-no crank, it's the starter, or it's solenoid. Most likely the solenoid. Since it's so intermittent, you may need to repeat the test several times. Give the starter a 5-10 min cool-down between tests.
If it works consistently, chances are it's the keyswitch of the ignition. Not very hard to get loose and look at it. Check it for corrosion on the contacts, and if it's there, clean it off with some super fine grit sandpaper, or ruby cloth.

I couldn't see any connections between the two circuits, other than the keyswitch, and the AM1 fusible link in the engine compartment fuse block. Make sure to ohm out the cable between the battery positive and the starter. It's easy to get corrosion inside the insulation that's invisible from the outside. Make certain you remove BOTH battery cable before you ohm anything, as it takes a very small voltage to destroy the ohm side of a meter.

Does this help at all?
Pat☺

 

Pat, thanks so much. This is really helpful. I've done the starter jump about 20 years back to diagnose a starter, so that makes sense. I'll be careful doing it. I'll let you know what I find out.
Aaron

 

So, I've pulled the starter and tested it. It works just fine. The line from the battery to starter also tests just fine with a multimeter, full 12.5 volts.

Tested the line from the ignition that attaches to the solenoid with a multimeter and getting no voltage from that line. So, the issue is before the starter.

I'm thinking about just replacing both the starter relay and the ignition starter switch (on the steering column) to see if it's perhaps one of those two elements.

Any thoughts on what else I could test or should be looking at?

 

Update: After cleaning everything up, I got the starter reinstalled. Fired right up. Not sure if I had a bad multimeter test on the wire to the solenoid. Or if perhaps I temporarily jiggle-fixed something up near the steering column, but it's working. I'll write back if the issue returns.

 

https://youtu.be/SafjO966WTA

see if this helps…

 

I did this on my 87 4runner a month ago and it starts quicker now and works great, stalled it a few times after I slid into a snow bank trying to get out and it never hesitated.

 

Same problem with my 87 4x4 pickup AT. A lot of guys recommend checking out the starter relay but for us AT guys there isnt one. I ran the same tests, new battery, starter. I jumped the starter solenoid with the battery and it fired right up. Was looking more into the neutral safety switch on the passenger side transmission to make sure nothing was out of the ordinary and my reverse lights worked so i assumed id move onto tracing the solenoid wire back to the ignition to find a short or bad connection.