What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

What do you mean by "doesn’t seem to operate well" ?

Also did you not add a T for the e-locker?

 

Sure you made all the right connections?? Dog does not seem impressed!!

 

5six, I plan on using the same breather kit myself. Can you clarify what you meant by" doesn't seem to operate well".

 

All speakers in

sounds great

shop wanted 6hrs. Done in 2.5 by myself

stick speakers are crap

 

Ha nice observation...they all make sound so I think I an A-OK

 

In the grand scheme of things, a solid axle assembly and/or a IFS differential are sealed units. When they operate at normal driving speeds, heat and air bubbles form. That's when the breather does its thing. It releases that pressure so it doesn't compromise the axle seals. And when a vehicle is stopped for a length of time, those sealed units begin to cool down. That's when the breather closes it self to reduce the chance of any moisture intrusion. And thus creating a vacuum. The breather is operating as designed.

And what do you mean by "doesn't seem to operate well"?

 

I see you’re from Quakertown, I’d be curious the shop.

did they quote deadening and custom starboard cut brackets? 2 way component or coaxial?

just curious

 

Nothing like the satisfaction of doing something yourself AND saving money in the process.

Open a beer and enjoy some tunes on those new speakers.

 

I’d rather not in open forum. If you send me a message I’ll reply with it

but to your question it was simply installing the speakers I bought

Which was a crutchfield variety pack with component dash/front

 

Agreed. And yes. I think I will

 

fair enough, if it was drop in then that’s a bit steep I agree.

install pics? Just wrapped up my 5th gen, trying to find a way to clean up some things I don’t like about my install.

 

Didn’t take really any pics


One thing I can say is take the weather strip off the top of every door and set it before Installing the panel. 100x easier

and yes. The rate and hours for the “installl” would have been right at $1000

Um……No

 

Had to fix some rubbing on the front of the inner fender liner. Instead of the heat gun method and bending the liner, I removed the two screws holding the bottom edge of the inner fender liner and pushed it forward (away from the tire) and re-drilled the screw holes to secure. Now no rubbing in reverse while turning with my 285/70/17s.

 

Just did the front doors on mine and it was kind of a pia to get the top of the panel lined up and set. Are you saying to take the weather stripping off the panel, and set it on the door first, or to put the panel on, and then do the weather stripping?

 

Installed molle panel on my seat lifts

 

Take. The weather stripnoff the door panel

set the strip on the door

then install the panel on the door and strip.
Much easier

 

You can do the diff breather mod for waaay less money. I ran the hose up the gas tube chute as far as I could go and zip tied the hose in place. I don't have a locker so I didn't have to install a T-fitting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MFW8YK9dx0&t=137s

 

Installed Cali Raised Cat Shields today.

 

Hey yo, tires are LT285/70R17 E. But the spare is just a stock Dueler H/T prolly 265/70/R17.
I'm certain you can fit a spare 285, you just have to trim a small bit of metal, and it's tight.
Search 4runners.com for 5th gen 285 spare you'll find instructions

 

Sorry, I meant the valve doesn’t seem to be operating well, as it just doesn’t have a smooth play with it to open or close. I didn’t do anything for the E locker as I’m not familiar with that mod. I’ll look it it up and understand how to proceed.

 

Hmm, wasn’t aware of the e-locker breather … adding to the list

 

I didn’t realize it is set to operate at a negative pressure … seems a bit counter intuitive since any leak I’d hope would be to blow out and not suck in. Just thinking back to my experience with contamination prevention in production, keeping rooms in a positive pressure status. But your explanation seems how’s it’s designed based on air rushing in when I removed the valve.

 

Had an awesome turnout yesterday for a local Offroad event with about 40 4Runners, some Jeeps, and FJ and a Subaru. Lots of dusty trails, and few waterholes to traverse. Then it rained on the way back home so truck is clean on the surface.

 

Sweet picture.

 

Where is that? I'd cross the border for a turn out like that.

 

A small town, just north/east of Oshawa in Ontario. We can only dream of what is offered going west from middle of continent.

 

Maybe a 9 hour drive for me.

 

I've used this site for years without registering, and thought I'd return the favor and hopefully help someone out there who had my issue. I bought a Weathertech floor liner for my rear hatch area (I have a 3rd row), and the liner was always sliding around due to my tools also being back there. I've seen people use Velcro and stuff like that, but I wasn't convinced it would work very well. Here's some custom work I did to fix this issue:

Removed the crappy factory hooks underneath the liner on all four corners (picture attached).

Picked up (4) M6-1.0 x 40mm flanged button head bolts (Allen head) off Amazon ($10)

Bought a 12" x 12" x 1/6" aluminum sheet (you'll have leftover) for around $15

Bought some metal D-ring tie downs (total length 1.5" x 1.0") for around $7

I also used some spare washers (1 per corner) between the tie down and the aluminum sheet.

Basically, I cut 4 small rectangles out of the aluminum sheet that would fit inside each of the indentions in corners of the Weathertech liner so they fit snug (you'll have to trim them down to get them to fit well). Next, I drilled holes in the center of each of the rectangles so that the bolt can go through it. You'll want to make the holes larger than the threads of the bolts so you have some wiggle room, but not so large that the bolt head can go through it. You'll do this on all 4 corners, and the holes go in slightly different places on each corner, so you have to fiddle with it. Once you get all the holes lined up so that they go through the aluminum and into the threads that originally held down the hook anchors, you put it all together. You'll have the bolt, then the D-ring tie down, then the small washer, then the aluminum, then the floor liner.

This is a very basic rundown of how I did it, and if people are interested I'll try and scan each one into my computer so you can print it out and use those as a reference for your aluminum rectangles and holes. This process took me several hours to get them to all fit cleanly. After a fews days of running around town, my floor liner hasn't budged a single inch. Hope this helps someone out there!

Thanks to all who have posted on these forums.

- Red

 

Also, I'm not sure if I should have posted this as a new thread or not on a different subforum, so if mods can/want to move it, feel free. I'm not quite sure where I should have put this.

Thanks

 

Finally got around to dipping my SR5 wheels. A budget alternative until I can get new tires and wheels together when tires need replacing. This is Anthracite Grey. Took all day, but wasn't too hard. This Dip Your Car hyper dip goes on fairly easily and manageable even having never dealt with this stuff before. I put on 4 dustings and 8 wet coats and still have a can left. They say to use the all the cans in the kit, but I was worn out and it looked good. I have also recently painted roof rails black and added the side window guards. Next up is likely tinting front windows to match rear and maybe some audio upgrades this summer. Sidenote - I got 25 MPG on way home from work last week. 30 miles, back country roads, 40-45 MPH. It was awesome.