Question about sound deadening

I was quoted 800 for sound treatment in the doors and hatch so I decided I'm going to try to tackle it myself. I'm just doing the kilmat for now. Is it crucial to put the butyl foil under the plastic vapor barrier and if so is it easy to put the vapor barrier back on? I was planning on just avoiding that area and doing the inside panel and around the speaker. Just wanted some opinions on if it's necessary. I'm just trying to gain some improvement in the sound system. Speakers have already been replaced. Will I get any improvement just putting this behind the speaker and around it?

 

I just left the vapor barrier, and went over it. You could avoid it. But, i wanted the door panel to act like an enclosure (sealed up) to give the Satori mid every added benefit. (Ive used Second Skin in a dozen builds, and love their product, but anything that adds some mass will do fine)
Its not rocket surgery or brain science. (theres 4 sheets in the inside also, over kill, but i had it, so i used it, the doors shut like my acura doors now,... i dig it)

Get to work my guy, and best of luck.

 

How much did you end up using and did you cover the entire inside behind the speaker? Did you end up adding anything to the back of the plastic door cover?Thanks man!

 

Pulling off the plastic barrier is really easy. Peel it back slowly and let the buytl separate. You don't need to remove the whole thing, let it just hang open to get access inside. Once you're done just press it back into place.

 

I used a ass ton, (zero flex here, but, I was on the official Team Second Skin for 6 years (sponsored) , back in my audio competition days) that I had left over from previous audio builds. I put it down every where. On the outside panel, on the inside of the out side panel, the outer door skin itself (behind the driver, taking care of where the window tracks),... every where on both front doors. I'm a big believer in dampener. I have vids somewhere of gains (Decibel gain on the meter/mic) when using dampener. It can actually change (usually lower, from my testing/doing) the FS or resonance of the cabin. Not to mention making the cabin quieter to outside shenanigans. Gains on the mid bass drivers, lower response (which I love), and cone control, letting you put more power to it, especially if you basically "seal" the open door panel, making it basically a enclosure, vs just hanging the driver in there, with a billion holes in the "baffle" and letting it wang in basically a free air type situation. Good bye cone control, power handling, low end extension/response.
On the actual plastic door panel, yep, I put some on the inside of it also. Not "full" application, taking care of any moving bits (door lock bars, and such, anything that obviously needs to move) and any plastic bits or pieces that can vibrate or buzz while getting after it. I hate those noises. Exactly how much I used, hard to say. Couple of bulk packs? I also put a ton on the rear hatch door, while I added a molle panel on that. I know they have "door kits" that are like 15sq feet. But, I don't think that is for full application (over kill like I did) but, I think would get you close. Or buy 2 door kits, and a bulk pack, and, find places to put any left over. It will help anywhere you lay it. And with the size of these bricks we drive, there is PLENTY of places to put left over.
Get to work my man... and best of luck.
(and yep, I over nerd on this shit, as, i am into it, enjoy the work to do it, and have since my first shitty car. I love music, love it, especially while cruising ,and, still like that young kid, I like my tunes a lil loud, and sounding awesome)

 

Respect. I'm just going to attack the 4 doors tomorrow and see how much of an impact it makes especially for the front speakers. Maybe I'll get the rear hatch done as well but who knows. I'm hoping for about an hour a door but that's prob wishful thinking. I prob won't go as far as you did but I plan on getting close to full coverage on the inner and out metal of the doors

 

Good shit. If its warm where your located, set the sheets out in the sun while ya take the panels off. Also, the foil backing can cut you up pretty good, fyi. Best of luck.

 

Appreciate all your input. BTW I heard cell foam on the of the door cover is big for audio gains. Was wondering what your thoughts on that was

 

I know SS has like 4 different cell foam type materials. Ive only used the Damplifer pro deadener, or the like in my days, as well as some of the thermal stuff to block heat. Ive not used any cell foam goods, so cant say much, but i know they have a few different types available.

 

Throughout the number of forums, I think I've seen it mentioned at least once to be careful with applying the sound deadener on the inside of the door on the outside sheet metal wall for fear of causing rust. I haven't been able to find confirmation from anyone who had it installed for years. Have any of you experienced any rust issues from it? I'm upgrading my stereo in my 2012 that has minimal rust for it's age and I'm coming from a 4th gen that I had to ditch prematurely due to rust so I'm paranoid now. Thanks, in advance, for any info.

 

Sound Deadening quick facts:

-It is the vibration deadening, not sound absorption that deadening provides.
-To achieve this, 25% coverage will yield 90% of the results
-Outer panels can be some of the most critical

Typically, the vapor barrier will be covered with deadening so re-adhering is of no issue.

The only reason deadening could possibly promote rust is if water was trapped at an edge (and extremely unlikely if rolled correctly).

 

Are you saying that it is not necessary to cover every square inch of panel to get a good result? Makes sense to me from the standpoint of vibration reduction of the sheet metal. Are there any specific areas of our 5th gen front doors, where coverage will give the most effect?

 

the roof and the wheel wells, behind the dash if you want to commit to such a project.

those three noise areas, along with the doors and standard floorboard, will net the most returns