Totally stuck drum brake adjuster. Next steps brainstorm.

That star wheel won’t back off.

Here are the options I can see: 1) remove the gd axle to get better sight on the adjuster; 2) carbide dremmel out the oblong access window big enough to get a small plier in there; 3) drill out the 2 round-cap-spring center pins that hold pads in place; 4) just take the whole assembly to a shop and have them fix my mistake, cutting the drum in half if necessary.

Anything I need to consider before taking any these steps?

 

Try backing off the parking brake adjustment underneath the center console.

 

oops third gen, but Im sure there a parking brake adjustment somewhere. Might give you enough slack.

 

You having trouble getting the drum off? If so, have you tried the bolt holes in the drum? Apologies if that's a dumb question.

 

I didn’t do my research before d with this and ended up manually tightening the pads. Passenger side is off without struggle, driver’s is buggered. I’m not going to assume anything anymore: would the forward parking brake adjustment help in this situation?

 

There are no dumb questions if a cutting torch is now being considered.

One bolt hole is still useable, the other is rusted smooth.

I pried the lip of the dust cover up in 4 places and can get purchase with prybars. The brakes are so tight I can’t get the drum to slide off them.

 

the 5th gen has a yoke in the center console where the foot pedal cable joins the two cables that exit towards the back. I may be incorrect but Id imagine loosening the yoke would free up the shoes.

 

Is this possible - tighten the one bolt that works until it's a bit snug, then use a hammer and brass punch (or whatever fits) and attempt to hit the lip of the drum opposite the bolt from the back side, then snug the bolt, then hit the lip, etc.? Might get it to walk or creep out slowly. Also, spray lubricant all over inside the brake and at the hub while doing this, wherever you can reach that there's contact. Even soak the shoes if you can. I'm guessing that you're trying to overcome a lip on the worn drum.

 

You and I have the same impulse. Different method, same principles.

I finally f got it.

I don’t know if I can give a good step by step, but will try for future searchers.

Drilled out the center of pad retainer pins, flat head rivet looking things on back. Used 1/8” bit, should have gone a size bigger. Levered heads off with flat screwdriver. Removed 2 10mm bolts on top of back plate holding wheel/slave cylinder. (First unscrewed the brakeline fitting between them and plugged with a small tapered silicone plug.) Used 2 pry bars to lever under dust cover and pry the drum lip on multiple points for 1 1/2 hours, mm by mm. Got a gap between back plate and drum, absolutely soaked pads in PB Blaster to help ease drum past them. Ended up using longest straight prybar sideways between backplate and drum lip, alternating pulls with rt and lft hands top, sides, and bottom. Like paddling a kayak.

For future readers, this is a nasty, frustrating, scary experience. A worst case option. It seems like you’re having to grind pad material off with the drum by pure force, and it sure as h feels like things are bending.

I didn’t see damage at first glance, but I’ve got new pads, drum, and wheel cylinder on hand. Going to get a brake drum spring and pin kit from Oreilly’s.

 

The star adjuster is without a doubt not turning. May have to replace.

 

https://youtu.be/y6jpNC6emOQ

Here’s a vid that verified my thinking this morning. The pin and pry starts at 3:52.

 

I looked at that video too.