400 dollars to upgrade stock sound, well maybe 600

2022 ORP and I got 400 to 500 to upgrade the audio sound. Just looking for better overall sound. I’m thinking 400 bucks or should get better speakers all around. Any suggestions on what to get. I’m looking for as much plug and play as possible, so crutchfield is my usual source.

I look forward to see what folks might think.

Important things for 4runner install
-not adding an amplifier, look for speakers with a high efficiency rating
-need to pay attention to the hatch speakers and what effect they have on the setup. Wired in series, changing the resistance seen at the head unit.

Some Resources that might be worth using:
https://www.4runners.com/threads/front-component-speaker-crossover-needed.24802/
https://www.4runners.com/threads/2021-sr5-audio-install-build-thread-for-the-average-person.25788/
https://www.4runners.com/threads/5th-gen-full-audio-install-log.9897/

 

A little thought from a music lover, I don't think its worth not upgrading speakers without adding a sub woofer.

When I check with OEM Audio plus they quoted me $400 flat rate for my non JBL TRD ORP to install their complete kit (speakers, amp, sub, etc). Just a thought..

 

Don’t want to deal with a sub or amp, I know I’m not getting anything earth shattering for 400 bucks, but o know just changing out the tweeters has made a noticeable difference in sound quality in other vehicles. Factory speakers tend to be junk, so I figure upgrading them will be worth it, made a noticable difference in our Rav4.

 

After doing a
Little sober research this morning, I think I may have to up the budget to 600.

these are on the short list
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ISU690/Focal-ISU-690.html?tp=106

these were recommended to me a while back,
https://www.woofersetc.com/audison-...-300w-woofers-4ohms-component-crossovers.html

 

When I went to an audio shop here in CO asking just to swap the speakers they recommended these 2 as direct swap with no additional items needed for mounting.
Front- Focal IS690 TY (not the universal one you post)
Rear - Focal IC165 TOY (same as above, if you get Toy ones it will include correct mounting)

But they said additionally then need to make some changes to rear hatch speakers to disconnect them as rear door and hatch speakers are in series of 2ohms making 4ohms at the headunit. (If I'm not mistaken what they said).
So if you just install 4ohm on rear door not discount hatch speakers you may not get the the best quality since rear hatch speakers still working and when you just unplug reat hatch speakers the new ones on rear door will not work. I haven't removed the panels, so no idea how to get the 2 wires needed just to run rear door speakers.

 

Thanks for the reminder about the hatch confusing things a little. I’m going to edit the first post with some things to remember or do for the install.

Both those listed came from a respectable member on TW, and I almost ordered the focal s when I got my runner, decided to wait till I could feel better about spending the money.

 

I put JL C1-690's in front and it's definitely an improvement in sound quality. I used the gutted frames from the OEM dash speakers as brackets for the tweeters. I plan on putting the matching speakers in the rear doors and hatch when I get around to it.

Not super detailed, but here's my install:

https://www.4runners.com/threads/th...all-of-my-money-went.12919/page-2#post-141001

 

If you are not adding an amplifier, look for speakers with a high efficiency rating (usually listed as SPL 1W/1M or something similar). That will help you get the most out of the stock head unit.

 

When upgrading the front woofers and tweeters, do you need to remove stock crossovers to install aftermarket or do you just drop in the aftermarket stuff?

 

I'm pretty sure I bypassed the OEM crossover, and used whatever the JL's came with.

 

Where did you install the crossovers? Did it require extra wiring or you still able to use factory wiring? I’ve never used a crossover before.

 

I think all the wiring comes to the dash speaker, so I think I just spliced everything in at the dash. I think there are some tutorials online about wiring for the dash speakers. Hopefully some of them have a schematic showing which wires go where.

 

ya I haven't searched for that yet, but I think I am going to be wiring in crossovers for better sound. I did NOT do this when I replaced speakers in the Rav, so I figure this will up the sound.

 

So I will have to run more wires to use a crossover? I was hoping not to have to do this, not saying I won't or can't just hoping for plug and play.
Thanks for the info.

 

Using a crossover requires more wires….you are taking a single full range signal and splitting it to at least two separate leads for the tweeter and mid. Some crossovers are three way…depends on the speaker configuration.

The OEM wiring in the front is a full range signal that is split between the two OEM speakers and they use a capacitor on the tweeter to block lower frequencies. In essence, same concept as a crossover.

By adding a component speaker set and running new wires, you get to use the speaker manufacturer’s recommended crossover settings…and it is a super easy install.

 

Thanks, I am going to look into it, I want to get the best I can without amp or new head unit.
I also just found this thread, which I will post in the first post here for more reference.
https://www.4runners.com/threads/front-component-speaker-crossover-needed.24802/

 

You don't have to run more wires. You just need to figure out which wires in the dash are coming from the deck, and which ones go to the door speaker.

 

I know its easier to "delete" the hatch, but wouldn't it sound better keeping those 2 speakers?

 

Total noob here. Do only the front have cross over and are component?

And then the rears are coaxial?

 

I think-

the idea is to isolate the bass to the doors and then the voice and what not to the tweeters. (Using component speakers for front)
Then rear fill the sound.

 

I did a full upgrade of my entire system, but no sub since its not necessary with the right component choices and i need the space for Overlanding. Ideally you should upgrade the head unit, amp and speakers because a system is only as good as its weakest component. But just going with the best efficient speakers will do wonders.

I would put all the $$ in front speakers as separate components that are efficient and wide range. I personally have Alpine X sires speakers up front and R series for the rest.

 

I agree new head unit would make a big difference, but money and something i'm not looking to do, maybe years down the road. Ill look into those Alpines.

Edit:
The Alpine X series has a sensitivity of 89 dB, lower than some of the mid 90s on others, and to get the most out of factory head unit and no amp, I need higher sensitivity. Also discontinued at Crutchfield.

 

If I recall correctly, the dash speakers have wires coming from the deck and output wires going to the doors. You can just put your crossover under the dash speaker unless you get some huge bulky crossovers.

I think the ones I have just came with a high pass filter for the tweeters. So, I just spliced the wires to the door straight through and pigtailed off the main leads to feed the tweeter. I don't think it's really necessary to pull extra wire unless you're doing a high fidelity install.

 

I can't believe I am going to say this after all the crap I have done to my 4R, but the stock sound is actually fine for me.

 

My 2 cents (for all who didn’t ask):

while I can’t speak to the non-jbl, the upgraded package comes with a 6x9 with some good throw for a factory speaker. Also note they didn’t drop in any old speaker, and chose a proper woofer without coaxial provision. I believe this speaker to be audibly acceptable, with improvement coming from signal improvement.

for the tweeter, audiofrogs GS25 is the bees knees. Very clean full range, opting to forego a tweeter (and for good reason, being off axis the reflections from a dedicated tweeter would cause a terrible boost at the upper frequencies).


Everyone is going to hate on this statement, but getting control of time alignment and having proper eq will get you much further (without ever touching power/speaker upgrades). I can take 200 watts and a large cone subwoofer, put it in an IB configuration, and overpower (as well as out “clean”) the biggest and baddest SPL build (within reason).

implementation is everything, a chainsaw is useless in the hands of the unskilled