Front Shock R&R with KDSS

I've seen videos where they switch front shocks on a non KDSS 4R by just undoing the upper ball joint (and also the sway bar removed from the spindle to give more room) so the UCA is free to get out of the way. With the KDSS, can the front shock be switched with only the upper ball joint separated?

 

We ended up disconnecting the sway bar on mine.

There might be some good youtube videos.

 

Did you have to ratchet strap the KDSS cylinder and was it to give more room to get the shock/spring out? I see quite a few non KDSS front suspension videos and most loosen the LCA bolts with the alignment cams for some reason. Seems like the harder way. Thank you very much for all the great info you always provide on this forum. I'm pretty happy that I was able to get hold of a KDSS model. Just keep going back and forth on if I should just leave it alone other than tires/wheels and a front camera. LOL

 

We did not use a ratchet strap. I seem to recall it being a wrestling match. I believe I missed out on some of the tricks to the installation. I think there was a video I saw, after mine were already done of course, that had a better technique. I wish I could remember more.

 

I used this video to help me understand how to open the KDSS accumulator shutter valves…

Starts around 2:00

https://youtu.be/lcA5z4YPUTk

 

Just want to note that the valves should not be opened unless it's absolutely necessary!

I would perform the lift without touching the valves and then only open them if you throw a KDSS light on the dash.

 

Thanks guys for all the info. I don't think I would mess with the valves if I decide to change out the shocks. I know I would end up screwing things up. LOL

 

Found some more info. Seems like everyone does things a bit differently. Eibach recommends leaving the cylinder side attached but removing the clamp from the fixed arm on the passenger side sway bar to let the LCA drop on that side. I guess the cylinder lets the drivers side LCA down enough so you don't have to remove that clamp. King doesn't recommend removal of the passenger side clamp or cylinder clamp and they just use a screw jack under the cylinder to compress the cylinder to let the passenger side drop enough. Toytec removes the clamps on the sway bar from both the cylinder and the fixed side and just uses a screw jack to get them both back together after finishing the shock install on the front. Seems like they all leave the sway bar ends connected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4s7hI_3Pb4A

 

As someone who just wrestled with KDSS yesterday leveling my wife’s new ORP, all I can say is, remove as little as you can get away with. I was cursing KDSS pretty good by the end of it.

 

I installed my Ironman stage 2 kit solo. I thought it was fairly simple because of opening the KDSS valves. No warning lights, no KDSS lean, no problems.

Easy peasy!!

 

After reading and watching, it seems like the correct way is to open the valves the full two turns.