excessive rust 2015 Trail

Good day runners! I have some serious issues with my 4runner! 2015 Trail premium w/KDSS, 85,000 miles. I bought it in Oct. 2020 with 45,000 miles. There was some rust underneath, rust on the back hatch lock assembly and the bolts in the back. Fast forward to now, my KDSS light has come on and I took it to the dealer. The KDSS is basically corroded, leaking and a mess. I have an extended warranty but they declined to repair due to rust. The repair is 9K! Ii asked if I could just remove the KDSS and make it a regular suspension, but I guess that can't be done. I would like to sell it... Do i have any recourse with Toyota? I think this is excessive rust for a vehicle with only 85,000 miles on it. 2015 is not an old car! Have there been other cases of excessive rust on 2015's? Ugh I am beyond sad.

 

Maybe try an independent? The dealer may want to replace the whole thing, but perhaps an indie can get it fixed w/out a wholescale swap. I'm sorry to hear it though, and welcome to the forum.
Mike

 

So sorry to hear these. You are in a salt belt?
Is it better to add 'waxoyl' rust proofing to a new truck or wait till at least 5 years before first application?
I noticed that Land Rovers gets the 'waxoyl' treatment right away

Any better longer last solution out there?

 

$9K is a lot. Any detail on what needed repair/replacing?

I do know the accumulator is prone to corrosion. If that's the only problem then as mentioned, maybe an independent shop, or maybe even DIY, to get it fixed.

 

You are better off trading the truck. The dealer can wholesale it at auctions.

 

Thanks for the replies. I am in the Northeast… I guess that could be classified as a salt belt! I will ask which exact part is the problem, dealers of course just want to replace the whole thing wholesale! I’ll check around my area for an independent that would be familiar with the system. The other option is just to offload it as lulu said. Cut my losses and get out. The rust in my opinion is quite bad for a 2015 vehicle. I’m fairly gutted…

 

Phone around to 4x4 shops in your area to find one that specializes in Toyota lifts and suspensions.

 

One of the most common issues is corrosion on the accumulator, which is an expensive replacement. I don't think I've heard of them charging $9K, though. You might want to check a few other dealer service departments.

The problem is that the mounting brackets are different for KDSS sway bars, and they're welded to the frame. So, you can't just switch to the regular sway bars without a lot of work.

 

Do you have pictures of the rust? Where in the Northeast are you? I can not imagine your truck is at a point of no return and wool wax and fluid film can be applied over existing rust.

Best to remove the KDSS skid plate, clean and coat the valve block once or twice per year. Even with compressed air into the drain holes on that small skid plate, it holds a ton of dirt and debris. I know this is after the fact but in the future if you do you have the system repaired....

As for recourse with Toyota, you might try a phone call to corporate explain your situation. Where did you buy the truck from?

 

I agree with this recommendation.

Very sorry to hear this, I can imagine how upsetting this must be. Since this is not common for occurring this early in the vehicles life, a dealership may look upon it as owner misuse (not you, but past owner). There are things that can accelerate this such as parking on grass all the time, driving through muddy water and not washing it off (mud holds moisture to the frame), and driving through salt water and not washing off. A repair after an accident could also accelerate it.

 

I live in Western Mass. not as extreme as say the Dakotas or Michigan, but we get snow, they salt the roads… it was previously a fleet vehicle and one owner before I bought it. The black latch was so corroded when I bought it it was kind of astonishing. This is all my fault I feel now, buyer beware and all. The truck was never taken off road into muddy conditions. It’s almost as if it was submerged in salt bath or something. When I got it I did have the undercoating done, like wool wax but a different brand Krown, but really many days and dollars late. You probably have to start that when it’s new.

the dealership took photos, so I’ll start from there. I think the rear latch is a bit shocking as it is basically INSIDE the truck.

I took it through salt water twice, I go over sand with it. But it already had so much rust!!!

thanks for the suggestions and help, I’m going to look further into legal avenues. I’ll post pics

 

Since I have no knowledge of its previous life, but it could have been parked over grass or over puddles its entire life before me. I garaged it!

 

I just came across this thread.. Same year, same model, same problem.
https://www.4runners.com/threads/kdss-existing-or-new-owners-beware.12050/

 

These are the photos... I am actually really mad at Toyota right now. The last shot is my rear hatch latch.

 

I hope this isnt as bad as you think. I cant see the frame rails very clearly in those pics. If you’re trying to assess the condition of the frame itself, I’d suggest getting a good look at the front crossmember under the radiator (where the tie down loops are attched), the rear drag link mounts directly under the rear doors, and the body mounts. Those are the easiest because you just need to lay down and look at them. Poke them with a screw driver, try to see how deep the scale is.

Next, take a good look and prod at the lower control arm mounts and the two crossmembers to which they are attached. Check the transfer case crossmember, the fuel tank straps, and also a tube crossmember around where the rear shock mounts are. Look at the rear shock mounts too. There are two more “open” stamped cross members, one running over the tank, and one running over the spare. The rear bumper crossmember is hard to look at unless you take the bumper cover off. Check in this order, since you could probably make your decisions more quickly be checking the easy things, which happen to be the more important areas to check.

If it just has scale but plenty of meaty metal left, I would just take a weekend to get as much scale off as possible everywhere, rinse the frame really well with lots of of water, making sure that the water you spray into the frame rails and crossmembers flows out easily through all the factory drain holes. I would hit every frame hole with lots of water to make sure the holes are open. A garden hose and regular jet nozzle is fine for all this.

After descaling and cleaning, spray and brush the entire frame, hydraulic lines, and fasters with massive amounts of fluid film or other creeping oily corrosion inhibitors. Avoid rubber things that move or flex. I’d do a thin non-waxy product first. Them maybe a heavier product like Wool Wax, or something that sets up a little waxy. Treat this whole process as if it were your hobby lol.

Even though installing a non-kdss suspension is not a bolt-off/bolt-on option, it might be possible to retrofit it with a bit of fabrication. Maybe even for less than you were quoted for repairing what you have.

All of this depends on the condition of the frame, however. And if you are able to do this work yourself (nobody else will give you this thouroughness). And depending on how much you actually care to do it. Some things just aren't worth the extra trouble, but

Did you rinse everything thouroughly after driving it in salt water? Saltwater mist could explain the condition of your rear hatch latch. I would tell anyone that drives in salt water to immediately rinse everything out like I described above. Not an underbody spray
at the carwash, but a “hand-crafted, artisinal-grade” wash-out using your eyes, and a hose. And Every. Single. Time. it’s taken through salt water, or sand at an ocean beach. Especially if there is already some scale on the frame that can hold on to moisture easier.

To be honest, I do this after ever off road trip I have to get mud off. I’m a bit obsessive about it


Best of luck!

 

You are meticulous! I would not be so meticulous... I don't feel that I should have to go to such great lengths to protect a frame, I have a 2008 Volvo with 163,000 miles that doesn't even begin to look like the 4runner and it spent it's life in Vermont. The rust on the rear latch, latch hook and the bolts back there were rusted when I got the vehicle with 45,000 miles, so my trips through salt water didn't cause that. It also had pretty much the same rust as it has now. I am unsure of what to do now, I kind of feel I just have to get out of it. maybe I should lease a Taco and in 3 years, they can have it back. Rust or no rust, lol. I am sad, it has new tires, a new Sony entertainment system with Carplay.

 

Agree! Volvo definitely knows how to build a vehicle that can withstand corrosion, Toyota should definitely poach some of their engineers. I have an 07 XC70 wagon with 230k that looks like brand new underneath, the only rust on it is just on any mild steel parts. The body structure and everything look like new still.

That car came from New Hampshire and has lived its whole life in New England, and I've done zero maintenance on it as far as trying to prevent corrosion.

 

I think it also has a lot do with unibody construction vs body on frame construction, all trucks suffer worse rust I think, but I could be wrong!

 

This vehicle could have been been in a salt water flood. Probably just not reported to Carfax. Maybe

 

I did think of that, but then thought no way... It wasn't purchased from a coastal dealer, didn't reside in a coastal area as far as I know, I have no idea if it was taken off road or not. It was a "fleet" vehicle but that could be many things. maybe it was parked near the salt storage of the city? Who knows. It seems excessive to me for the age of the truck. I have thought of going to the originating dealer to find out who it was sold to...

 

I am going to lay the blame straight onto myself, buyer beware and all that. I knew nothing of rust problems on 4Runners, not something that was on my radar. Plus I was never advised about rinsing the frame all the time, cleaning the KDSS. I did have the Krown coating put on though.

 

Interesting with the Krown coating application, when did you do it? I do not know anything about Korwn other then the name. Is it a rubberized coating? I have always Fluid Filmed my trucks and now use Wool Wax. I do not rinse the underside of the truck off in the winter as the manufacturer of the product says the more dirt/grime on the frame the better protection. And I have seen that statement hold true if I take a finger and wipe off the coating down to black frame paint.

I understand where you are coming from and I would say the majority of 4Runner owners around me in Maine do nothing to their frames. Do they have problems or do they go and rinse their trucks at the car wash every week, I don't know and there are too many variables. I too am curious about your trucks past life, there are 4Runners running around with 300,000+ miles in the midwest with some rotten skid plates but nothing but light surface rust on the frame.

The average 4Runner owner is not on this forum, doesn't know what KDSS is and if you told them they had to go under their truck, remove the skid plate and spray the unit with stinky goop, they would say get bent.

Without seeing more pictures of your frame I can not render an opinion but I would be interested in the front radiator support under the front skid plate. It is a known area that rots because of a blanking piece of foam that traps water.

Sorry for your troubles.

 

https://www.krown.com/en/
Krown is a product similar to Fluid Film I think, but not heavy like Woolwax. When I did the Krown I did not wash the undercarriage either.

Pretty much yes! Also perhaps the average 4Runner owner leases their vehicle and after 3 years what ever problems it has are back on Toyota! When i get the truck back from the dealer I intend to look at the frame very closely!

 

Actually many dealers/salespeople don't know what KDSS is! When I was shopping around I wanted KDSS the sales guy was like what's that!

 

The truck is at Toyota now? Are you having the KDSS repaired?

 

Yes, I brought it for service and because the KDSS light was intermittently on. Also to replace the rear latch. I have an extended warranty (fat lot of good that did me) but they declined both repairs due to rust. The KDSS repair was quoted 9k. I declined it, seeking another opinion.

 

Before you make any decision on that KDSS I would check the front crossmember under the radiator....as well as the rest of the truck.

 

Just for giggles I looked up the price for the accumulator assembly... This price plus lines etc. and labor will def add up to 9K!

 

don’t know what state you are from
BUT
looking at the downside risk I would sell the pig and buy a better one then take care of it

‘might be hard to sell but to put 13000 grand into fixing the KDSS and some of the rust is a waste of money from where I sit

very sorry for your predicament

hope it is paid for and you can sell it outright even to take a loss

but throwing 13000 or more and still end up with a problem child and you knowing it is still a problem is not good if you wish to keep it for a while

what about getting a new one or a couple years old from say Texas or somewhere which is perfect underneath and finance it

ONLY IF YOU WANT TO,KEPP THE NEWER ONE FOR A DECADE
then as 4Runners are almost bullet proof you will enjoy it for a decade
This one NOT SO MUCH

sorry my friend just trying to help out long term

you picked a great vehicle model just not particular one

 

Sorry for your misfortune.

That price is full MSRP, that accumulator can be had for around $1562 from some dealers who sell online, I know $800 less still doesn't reduce the total repair price down that much but just an FYI.

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota....ubmVyJnk9MjAxNSZ0PXRyYWlsJmU9NC0wbC12Ni1nYXM=