Wandering/sensitive steering

My 2018 SR5 4Runner has super sensitive steering and wanders in the lane at high and low speeds. I feel like I’m going to get pulled over for intoxication…

I saw a thread on here that suggested dialing the caster angle past 3 degrees, up into the 3.9 area, but also read on another 4x4 site that higher caster angles mess with ease of steering. I want to find the middle ground here.

Is that the main fix for this issue? And if so are there problems with steering, (harder to steer) at that increased angle? I don’t want to make it too difficult for my wife to drive…

Thanks, in advance,
I’m new on the forum

I appreciate a more experienced opinion

 

Need more info. Stock size tires, lift, rims, etc?

 

Hi,

So it’s just stock rims. Suspension is stock, no lift.

The tires are the BF Goodrich KO’s latest edition. But normal size not oversized or under sized.

No modifications at all. There is no shaking or other problems in terms of suspension/steering other than the wandering in the lane.

I don’t do a lot of off road driving. I don’t commute very far. Only 7-8 minutes from home. Tire wearing is normal. It doesn’t pull to one side vs another.

The wandering is most noticeable at higher speeds but it does do it at lower speeds as well.

Thanks for any thoughts

 

How many miles on your truck?

What tire pressure do you usually run, and how often is it checked?

The other concern - do you rotate tires regularly?

 

Have you had an alignment recently?

I have my caster at 3.9 and don't have any difficulty turning.

 

you checked upper and lower ball joints for play, all lower control arm bolts torqued to spec and inner/outer tie rod ends checked for play? Maybe even check the steering rack bolts as well.

Does this occur on any type of road your on?

maybe the KO2s are just wanderers?

 

I’m definitely going to get the alignment checked again and hoping to make sure the caster is up at the 3.9 degree range.

mileage is 30k. All control arms are good. But I only do rotations about every 5k miles.

 

Shoot for caster around 3.5 or above.

 

I increased my caster and it helped a lot. The wandering at highway speeds was pretty irritating, now it behaves quite normally. Steering effort did increase but it's hardly too much.

I'm afraid I don't know what degree mine were set at, but it was enough that I get the slightest bit of rubbing on the fender lining when both in reverse and turning, which is when most people get rubbing from upsizing their tires etc. And that's only when I'm running my AT tires on TRD rims. The rims have a slightly different offset than the OEM wheels and I think the tires might run a tad larger in diameter than the OEM highway tires -- they certainly have bigger tread blocks. I expect the rubbing will go away once I hit around 10-15K miles of wear on these tires, but even if it doesn't it's not hurting anything.

So I highly recommend increasing the caster.

However, you say this happens at low speeds too? It may be that you're just noticing how surprisingly maneuverable the 4Runner is for a vehicle of its size (it surprised me anyway). But it's also possible there's another issue, as others above have mentioned. So would get that checked out, either first or if it continues after bumping up the caster.

 

Needs new or adjusted tie rods? Did you get your truck new or used?

 

4Runners are famous for this from everything I’ve read/heard. Mine has done it from day one in stock form and still does it with leveling spacers after new alignment. You just have to drive the thing.

 

5K is ideal for tire rotation. That's what the manual recommends.

What is your caster at?

I put a lot of highway miles on mine, and don't feel like it wanders.

 

maybe i got lucky with my batch of 4rnrs (07, 11 & 22). all have been lifted with ATs and none wandered around at any speed.

 

Thank you everyone for your thoughts.

I’m scheduled for another alignment and hoping to get a read out this time of the before/after on the adjustments.

I haven’t check torquing on the suspension components. That’s a great idea.

I bought it used with 18k miles on it with the stock wheels and tires. There hadn’t been any modifications to my knowledge and I was sure to ask. And it’s not a Canada Vin either, I made sure on that as well.

I’ll keep the thread going with the results of the alignment.

Thanks again I’m loving this forum!

 

Let the alignment tech (or the person at the front counter) know that you're looking for a caster number at or above 3.5 degrees, while keeping camber and tow in spec.

3.5 - 4 degrees of caster is the higher end of spec and will help with the results you're looking for.

If you just take it in and don't specify the caster numbers, they could give you the low end of spec and you might still be wandering on the highway.

 

Welcome to the forum, BTW!

^^THIS

 

Hey Everyone. Figured I'd post in here since the OP might have the same issue.

Backstory: I just got my 21' 4runner Torp recently and it was used, so I never got the chance to see how it felt off the lot new. Driving around town, it feels great, even with the crap tires I had previously goes straight as an arrow with steering wheel almost mid straight on. When I get on the highway starting at 50, it feels like I'm floating? On ice? I have to make micro adjustments to ensure it's going straight. And even then, it feels almost unsafe or not so normal? It could be because I'm comparing it to my wifes CRV which feels planted even at 80+, when I hit 50 on the 4runner, it doesn't feel planted. Literally feels like I'm going to crabwalk off the bridge. lol I'm assuming what everyone talks about with wandering and getting the caster adjusted more positive is going to help with this issue in making it feel more planted and less wandering at high(er) speed. Of course I'm not talking about 80mph lol

Specs : Tires were just replaced, same issue with both sets. Purchased Toyo Open Country A/T iii 265/70/17 (less than 100miles on them) . Feels way better in the rain than my last Ironman whatever set that were on there. Suspension is stock. Wheels are stock, not TRD wheels. PSI, if I recall was in the 35 (+/-) psi range driving don't quote me on this. I've attached the alignment sheet below. I have about 46k miles on the 4r. Included are alignment sheet.

The Tech did ask if there was something I was looking for with the alignment and at the time, I didn't have an answer yet as I was replacing crappy tires so I didn't know what would be fixed and wouldn't be fixed just from that.

I'm used to Lowering suspension etc in the past, but I'm def not use to anything as high up as the 4r. lol Thanks for everyones time, I appreciate it and looking forward to making my official post in the Newbie section once I snap some pics on my camera.

 

If I’m reading it right, the printout shows your caster was below the recommended range when you brought it in for alignment and the shop left it that way.

Those low caster numbers will cause what you are experiencing, especially when combined with the differences between a vehicle like this and the small crossover you are used to. As others on the forum have said, adjusting the caster up near the top of the recommended range will make a huge difference.

A big, top-heavy vehicle with off road suspension is always going to feel more floaty than a small crossover. The square wind-catching shape of the 4R will only add to that. But from my own experience, a high caster solves the problem. Mine went from really annoying on the highway to just plain normal.

 

Thank you for the input, that's what I've been reading across the forum but wanted to get some opinion with my chart. Luckily, I do have 30 days to take it back to them, so I'll schedule another time to come out and have it adjusted. I'm assuming like previously mentioned, I'll want to have them max the Caster out as much as possible and keep the Camber & Toe in spec range Correct? And do they need to be even on both side, or is it expected to be off by a few .xx degrees?

 

It's weird they left your caster out of spec, especially on a stock vehicle.

For your situation, I would have them shoot for somewhere around +3.5 degrees of caster.

3.5 degrees because if you push the caster too far forward, you might start rubbing during sharp turns or in reverse towards the front of your fender well (on your fender liner or fender flare). It's an easy fix if you do rub, but it's more likely at higher caster numbers. Those of us with bigger tires and lifts usually do this trimming to accommodate bigger tires. Then we push our caster as far forward as we can for better drivability and to avoid rubbing the body mount and mudflaps in the rear of the fender well.

3.5 degrees will hopefully give you a happy medium of not rubbing but feeling a lot more stable at speed than you do right now.

Your caster, tow, and camber numbers don't have to be exact side to side. They can be a few tenths (or hundreds) off from one another but I wouldn't want them a full point off. Some people have different opinions on exactly how different one side should be from the other when accommodating for road crown. I don't have an opinion on that.

 

Thank you for the input! I'll do just that.

 

What would difference to alignment be if Canada or US VIN ?

 

OP - Just wanted to see if you got the alignment and if it's helped? I'm scheduled in for Tomorrow to have my casters adjusted.

 

Same problem on my 2019 Limited after going from the factory 20" wheels to a 17" TRD Pro wheel - crazy wandering on the highway. Had my shop set the caster to +3.9 solved my wandering issue but now I have a rub in reverse with the steering wheel all the way to the right. I will probably back the caster down to +3.5 and see how that goes.

 

Just got my caster adjusted, to be safe, they set it at 3 because the Camber and toe kept shooting out of range, but all in all feels better on the highway already. Probably just me and not being used to the new tire, but it feels like i have to keep the steering wheel just ever so slightly to the right to keep it straight, but there are some moments that I don't have to it's weird. I'm pretty sure it's all in my head? Again, I'm used to a Crv with H/T tires, not A/T so that just might be it. Chart attached of old and new measurements. All of it is almost dead on.