Troubleshooting help needed

1995 SR5 4WD Automatic
Came back from vacation to my 4Runner that won't start.
I have power to the windows, dash, headlights (that don't dim when key is turned to start).
Truck is in park (also tried in neutral), when key is turned to run/start nothing happens. No sound, no click, no nothing. Battery states 08/20 and reads 12.4V. I replaced the starter relay with no change.
I beat on the starter with no change.
Tried to bypass the relay with no change.
Appears to have good connections to the starter, however I'm thinking this is where I need to dig deeper and where my knowledge base dwindles. Definitely confusion about the solenoid and then the awful task of removing the starter.
Am I missing something before I start removing the starter? Feels so obvious. Ran fine when I left.

 

Have you checked all fuses? Have you had the battery checked to make sure it is actually good? Have you tried to jump the vehicle? Does sound like the starter but check the easy stuff first.

 

I did check the fuses and battery health, and all checked out. I just tried to jump it with no change. Earlier I watched a video on how to remove the starter and holy extensions.

 

I would check the neutral switch before tearing into a starter.

 

My NSS is on the transmission, correct?

 

Correct, It is on the transmission.

 

Swapped the starter and the issue continues. Next up is the ignition switch. That’s per the mechanic that I finally hired. You all are awesome! Thank you for your insight. The saga continues!

 

Not the ignition switch. NSS will be here on Tuesday. Seriously, what is the issue here? What happened in 7 days that killed my truck? It’s a wiring issue somewhere. Bypassed the NSS and nada. Anyone wanna come over and talk trucks? Yuma, AZ

 

This is a very simple electrical circuit. If you have replaced the starter, ignition switch and by passed the neutral switch and no joy, the problem is either an open wire somewhere in the circuit or the starter relay is bad. The continuity of the wires and the relay can be checked with a multi meter in about and hours time.
I hope your mechanic is not charging you for replacing parts that did not fix the problem.

 

Thank you so much for this diagram. I did replace the starter relay as the first diagnostic step. I also have a multi meter and we have been using it. Today I pulled the battery cables and brought them into an auto salvage/ parts shop for advice and besides a junky connector it had continuity.

 

I would start checking for voltage at the starter.
The large wire, terminal 30 (B in the schematic below) should always have battery voltage.
The small wire terminal 50 (A below) should have battery voltage when the ignition switch is in the start position. If it does have battery voltage you have a bad starter. If it doesn’t, check for voltage coming into the neutral switch, this should be the black wire, with the ignition in the start position.
Let me know what you find.
PM me and I can send you a link to an online FSM.

 

I replaced 40A and the NSS. Betty White then fired right up. Drove her out to the desert and around town like she was brand new. Then she did it again. Found a possible loose connector at the battery, and then she fired up and then I drove home with no issues. Later that night I drove her to a friend's house. An hour later, again I have dash lights but nothing after accessory. Let her sit and then she fires up. I just don't get it. Wiring yes. Must I replace EVERY wire from the ignition to the starter? Also, the pink fuse (located by drivers left foot) had popped out on its own yesterday causing a no click/no start. Thankfully I was able to recognize that quickly.

 

I just wanted to say thank you for this detailed thread. I am having similar issues on my 94.

 

Just when I think I found the issue, I turn the key and silence. Now it's intermittent which is almost worst. Yesterday, I drove all around without a concern. Stopped for gas and dead. Waited for roughly 5 minutes, with zero interventions and she fired right up. I'm at a loss other than replacing the entire wiring harness.

 

So no relay click for the starter?

I've had this issue with battery cables rotting out from the inside. Enough power for the accessories but not enough to turn over the starter. I think I at least would get 1 click from the starter relay.

Replace the battery cables if you haven't. A continuity test can NOT be used to test for bad battery cables.

 

No relay click. I did replace the negative battery cable. The end was corroded. The positive cable does appear and feels solid, but I can certainly replace that too. The other day I went to check the R2 (starter) relay in the passenger compartment and fuse 14 (computer) wasn't seated properly. Thought I solved all of my problems and of course she fired right up until it happened again.