What do y'all think of 5W-20?

Asking because I'll be using that in my other car. And 0-20 has always given me a bit o' the willies. Do you guys think 5-20 has any advantage over 5-30? Sticking with the recommended 20 weight but not letting it ever get as thin as the 0-20? What say the masses?

PS I've had a combo of dealer, local shop and DIY oil changes at 5K intervals. I usually use Mobil 1 when doing my own changes, regardless of car.

 

Just use the recommended viscosity that's on the cap. It's fine because if it wasn't there would be 4Runners everywhere with blown engines. Also keep in mind that much smarter people than you and I chose to go with what's recommended.

 

Plus 1 on that. Tolerances and oils have advanced over the years from what it used to be in the dark ages.

 

I think do whatever the manual says.

 

Fair, but what do you make of the fact that Toyota recommends 5W-30 in this very same engine outside of North America?

Plus if we're talking manufacturer recommendations, a lot of us find the 10K-mile change interval imprudent. As apparently do a lot of mechanics.

 

5wc20 be fine all the time in warm climate

 

What happens with those engines in other countries doesn't matter to me because we aren't there. They could have supply issues, the climate could require the different viscosity or it could be the fuel standards people think is driving the decision...still doesn't negate the fact that these engines aren't blowing up just because someone thinks the oil is too thin.

The 10K mileage is fine as well. There's more people that simply drive their Runners or cars in general than there are that work on them or know more than the average bear.

 

This is my stance as well. If it's on this chart, I wouldn't be afraid to use it in the applicable climate.

I'm still convinced that the 0W-20 is mostly a CAFE thing. I don't think it will harm the engine, but I don't think 5W-30 will, either.

 

I agree 100% such a simple change to get into CAFE good graces.

 

Stick to 0W-20.

The 5W is just going to be a tiny, tiny bit more viscous at cold temperature but at operating temperature the oils will be exactly the same. So what are you doing? Changing the viscosity at start up by a smidge. But on a newer 4runner with VVTI and electronic oil squirters you want the oil to flow as freely as possible at start up to give you maximum protection. The 1GR in the new 4runners (while the architecture has been around since 2003) are advanced in their timing components and I do think there could be harm by moving to a higher weight oil rather than more protection. The usual argument is that new oil recommendations are made to meet CAFE standards and increase fuel economy so people want to move to a 30W oil from a 20W.
You are much more at risk of harming timing and VVTI components by moving up a weight in oil than at risk of additional wear by using a 20W vs a 30W. In all honesty there is barely a difference between the two in wear protection. But the timing components and electronics are much more sensitive to the weight. Think about that.

 

The manual also recommends a 5K intervals in some very common use cases.

 

Man, I wish we could get a cartridge oil filter. Will just leave it with that.

Rock on!

 

You can.

 

Watch the car care nut video. Basically he refers the people that want a spin on cartridge as lazy.

 

Thanks everyone. Will be interested to hear what others think too. I just know that my 4runner and other car take a combined 11.9 quarts and you can get Mobil 1 in a 12-quart jug/box

 

Oh -- for those of you who think both 5-20 and 5-30 are fine in the applicable temp range (both spec'd for well below zero F?), do you prefer one over the other?

EDIT: My owners manual doesn't have the chart posted by @Dillusion . Its chart shows only 5-20 and it says this:

“Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Toyota vehicle. Use Toyota approved “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to sat- isfy the following grade and viscosity.

Oil grade: ILSAC GF-5 multigrade engine oil

Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20

SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.

If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.

Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):

• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow
  
  for easier starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil
  
  when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.

 

Oh snap. I just gasped and freaked out my wife.!

 

And in fact, At this point in my.... generation, I could be stated as lazy. Could that also not be classified as inquisitive?

Just kidding asking for a friend, need some new ramps, Not trusting these old formed metal cats I currently have.

Sucks to what jacked knees, can do to a guy!

 

I'd expect 5W-30 to offer more protection for hard driving conditions, like off-roading, towing, , etc. I don't really know what benefit 5w-20 would have over 0w-20.

 

Did you see the thread about Rhino Ramps?

Apparently, if you set them up on an uneven surface, they can crack. Who'da thunk??

 

Whatever kinda ramp can collapse on uneven surfaces. A coke can can hold a grown man if you stand on it just right. But collapse instantly when the forces arent straight down. It’s generally the same idea.

I’ve grown complacent with my steel ramps…not sure why. Maybe it’s because they havent killed me in the 25 years I’ve used them. Which is a really stupid reason to trust them, when I think about that logic. Lol

Gonna make me some ramps from 2x14 lumber I have lying around. Even if the wood splits, the tire should hold it together and keep it from coming down as long as the tires are on it. But capping the ramp with good plywood would keep it together if the boards wanted to split.

 

Am I correct in my understanding that 0w oil when the engine is cold is much thicker than when the engine is warm? In other words, when cold, an 0w20 flows like a 0 weight oil, and when hot it flows like a 20w. Oil is thinner when it’s hot. So I think any doubt about an

$53 0w20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w20 oil should be on the 20, not the 0w

In other words, going to a 5w20 will take away the benefit of free flowing viscosity at cold temps, and keep hot engine viscosity exactly the same. It wont wreck the engine, but I would worry more about the need for 30 weight in hot/high load situations.

 

I bought Race Ramps because my GTO was lowered when I purchased and I couldn’t get under it with my jack. They hold up my Runner just fine.

 

The List of Perpetual 4Runner Controversies!

• Is KDSS better?
• Oil change at 5k or 10k miles? Mobil 1? Amsoil? Redline? Blah blah…
• 0W20? 5W20? 5W30?
• Replace plastic oil filter housing with metal?
• Will it rub:
  – with a fender nip and tuck?
  – if I delete the mud flaps?
  – if I upgrade the upper control arms?
  – with a body mount chop?
• Ladder? Yes or no?
• Bull bar? Yes or no?
• Light bar? Yes or no?
• Raptor lights? Yes or no?
• C load or E load?
• Call it AWD or 4WD?
• Part-time 4WD okay to use on dry pavement?
• Ditch your Pedal Commander for a Dry Flow filter?
• Can I retrofit a heated steering wheel?

 

I believe the 10k mileage interval is too long. Just my thoughts though.
i tried to follow just that but after 9 months of short driving @ 5300miles... the oil was really almost black.
So, I was forced to do the 10k oil service

 

Color doesn’t really mean anything though but I agree it’s too long so I change at 5K miles. The majority of owners follow the 10K interval though.

 

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/‘14-4runner-trail-300-000-mile-review.1706497/

 

That's a great post you linked. This is a big reason I bought my 4Runner -- that you wouldn't be surprised to get 300K miles with little or no repairs. This guy's truck getting to 311K, looking and running close to new inside and out (even the frame, which per the post seems to never have been undercoated, yet the truck was driven mostly in Illinois and Indiana and sat outside 99% of its life), and having needed only an alternator in all those miles.

I get that part of your point is that he achieved this with only recommended maintenance including 10K mile oil change intervals at the dealer. But I would counter that this guy is actually the prime case for 10K intervals. He states that 80% of his miles were on highway and country roads. He's been driving long periods under low stress conditions.

As has been pointed out ad nauseam -- yet somehow still needs to be, again and again -- Toyota itself recommends 5K mile intervals for many common driving conditions. 10K is recommended for this guy, not for many others. Those of us doing changes at 5K are hardly in the camp of people doing them at 2K or 3K, and we hardly justify the snarky "well then, why don't you just change it every 100 miles?" The 5K interval is right there in the owners manual.

'nuf said

 

I was a little surprised he never changed the transmission fluid. But every mechanic will say at this point do not change it.

 

Just an FYI, the Car Care Nut recommends a transmission fluid change at 60k miles.