Oil change

Hi All,
I have a 2022 I believe I need to do my first oil change. I has only 1750 but it’s been 11 months. 4 Runner hasn’t been driven a lot this year. I already have my oil and filter. What is the oil change interval?

Thanks

 

Eleven months under Severe Driving Conditions (yes short trips and lots cold starts considered Severe) is too long, but no worries it is not the end of the world. Besides EPA will be happy you don't "waste energy resources" by changing your fluids more frequently, say every 6 month

 

Got it. I’ll do oil change as soon as I get my fumoto drain valve. Not to many short trips just wasn’t driven much, my wife uses her scion for work and puts lots of miles on that. I’ll do every 6 months from now on regardless.
Thanks for the advice.

 

Which Fumoto drain valve works well for 5 generation?

 

We have the F133S on ours. This is the short nipple version of the valve, while the long nipple version (F133N) will clear the factory skid, it's not by much, so for added clearance I would go with the short one.

 

1750 miles in 11 months or 160 miles every month....I don't think you need to be doing an oil change every 6 months my guy.


That's an oil change every 1200 miles lol.

I bet you still have the new car smell after 11 months.

 

I would change it.

 

Once a year or every 5k, however 10k is recommended by the manufacturer

 

Agree. Then you can connect the plastic tubing for future changes and just direct it into the pan for guaranteed zero mess and no issues. I did this on the taco and will swap for the shorty with nipple on the 4R soon. So much easier and keeps everything clean.

 

Need to do this also - what tubing do you use?

 

There is kit that comes with the funnel and all that. I just got this one from Amazon. Make sure the white fittings go into the nipple of the fumoto and your are done. This kept everything contained.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JTEOQAC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

So I take it the white plastic fittings snap over the Fumoto nipple...sounds easy. I've never used one of these, so it's all new. I have an RCI skid with the opening for the oil pan drain, so I don't imagine it would make much difference if I used either the F133S or F133N.

 

It won't make much difference for as long as you have the nipple on the fumoto valve. I have the rci on the 4R and the regular TRD on the taco and it doesn't make a difference. There is enough clearance on both sides. The other tool you want to get is the one for the filter housing. Same concept...get all the tubing connect and attach to the housing so that you drain whatever small amount is left in the filter. No mess...nothing dripping on the skids...super clean. I learned the hard way as you can imagine.

 

yes still has the new car smell Lol!

 

I will go with the F133N. My skid plates have spacers from diff drop. I believe it should give me enough room.

 

Interesting comparison of several different oil drain valve types:

https://rxmechanic.com/best-oil-drain-valve/

 

I installed my F133N yesterday when I did my oil change.
Lots of room with skid plate spacers.

 

+1. Manufacturer oil change intervals tend to be very conservative anyway. Go read BobIsTheOilGuy forums and/or send a sample in for analysis and I am sure you will probably see there is little to worry about. The biggest concern with that low of mileage is heating the engine up to cook off water condensation from time to time and starting it up often enough to keep everything lubricated.

Remember that all 0w-20 blends are synthetic based and can tolerate longer change intervals than conventional.

if you keep up that driving pattern I’d do the changes annually and call it good.

 

Don't forget to run a fuel system injector cleaner with last tank of gasoline before each change.

 

Why?

Most of the consumer "cleaners" are nothing more than a repackage of the additives that are already in pump gas, and most information online says there is little evidence they do much useful..... much less on a brand new vehicle that likely has nothing to clean.

If you stick to Top Tier rated gasoline brands you are probably getting this benefit already without doing anything extra. I've never used a fuel system cleaner in my life, and Ive rarely kept a vehicle for anything less than 10 years.

 

Certainly Top Tier gasoline is the way to go when available however Top Tier isn't always an option particularly in remote areas and Mexico.
Here's what Toyota of Greenville says about fuel system cleaning; https://www.toyotaofgreenville.com/service/research/maintenance/how-to-clean-fuel-injectors.htm

 

Here is a photo of the F133N

 

That’s a great action shot. It doesn’t come close to the skid at all.

 

Thats an individual dealers page - and we all know how notorious dealers are for upcharging customers on unnecessary services.

I'm not saying don't use it - it doesn't do any harm so feel free. However Ive never used it in my life (been driving for 30+ years including a lot of old beaters that where pretty badly abused and driven 150k, 200k, 250k) nor has anyone else I've met and most people are not as anal as I am about where they buy gas.

FWIW, Toyota corporate does sell a fuel injector cleaner, but its a concentrated formula not sold over the counter, designed to be used for a flush with a special cleaning machine in the service bay.

 

BTW, thanks for sharing that Toyota of Greenville link - perusing that site has been a great distraction on a slow work afternoon after the office holiday party.

This gem really gave me a smile :

https://www.toyotaofgreenville.com/service/research/maintenance/keep-a-well-tuned-engine.htm


Its good to know that the next time my exhaust smells funny, the cause may be that my serpentine belt has rusted out. Which would suck, because if it did rust and break I would loose my air alternator. And without air, it would be really hard to breathe offroad.. Luckily I can change my oil more frequently to keep that rubber belt lubed up so it wont rust.



[btw, PLEASE dont take this as picking a fight. I am just having a good chuckle at the crazy stuff dealers will come up with to sell service to the non-gearhead public]

 

Glad you clarified the belt was rubber, as once I read that, I was going WTF in my head. But anyways, I need to change my oil and hope my SERP belt doesn’t rust, it rained here the other day.

 

Here's a fun thread to wittle through; https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fuel-system-cleaner-consolidation-page.583948/
Toyota in this area recommend and sell an OTC fuel tank additive fuel system cleaner; https://www.thornhilltoyota.com/promotions/complete-fuel-system-cleaner/

 

Ok hold on… that can’t be for real can it? That looks like a joke a web developer put in there while they were setting up the website, and forgot to remove it, and client didnt read it when approving it. I can see it happening! Sometimes clients want there to be sections of textbut they are slow in getting the text for whoever is setting up the website (or other written printed things) Usually they use “greek” or word looking jibberish to typeset things until the final text is approved. But it looks like somebody was bored and got creative hahaha.

Unless we really do have an air alternator. We dont have one of those, do we? Lol

 

I wonder what color my air alternator is

 

I agree with others that you should change the oil every 6 months. With the miles you're putting on it I would assume there are a lot of short trips. With that, the oil is probably still in good condition but my concern would be that you aren't running long enough to burn out the condensation that can occur. JMHO