Metal oil filter housing

You made the correct decision by swapping out the center piece as the one that came with your metal housing is for a different element.

 

This is the way…

 

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What's the part # for this housing?

 

You had best swap out the center section. Just use a bit of care when doing so because it is under spring tension. Bend back the center ear carefully and twist gently to remove.

 

Anyone have issue with metal housing being seized on?

 

Everything is posted below to make the oil change as easy as possible. This has been posted plenty but here it all is in one post for anyone looking. The only other thing would be to buy a skid plate like rci,rsg etc that give you access. Makes this a ten minute job and zero mess. About 110-115$. The links I included have the Drain hose for the fumoto valve as well as the drain hose for the Filter.

Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems https://a.co/d/3egsIsA.

Fumoto F133S Oil Drain Valve with Heavy Duty 3' Hose Kit - S/S F103S https://a.co/d/cnBGZ5K

Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly https://a.co/d/gqyoUSY

Genuine Toyota 04152-YZZA5 Replaceable Oil Filter Element

$8 Genuine Toyota 04152-YZZA5 Replaceable Oil Filter Element

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044AXPMW

 

Looking at the Fumuto valves:
F133S vs. F133N, short versus long nipple respectively. I’d prefer to get the long nipple version. Who’s got one? Does it fit under the oval cover in the skid plate?

 

They both fit but the longer one is pretty close. I prefer the shorter one and just attach the plastic piece when hooking up the drain tube

 

Thanks.

 

@Potsie thanks!

 

I am more interested in an oil filter relocation kit for the long run, but the cost for parts seems to add up quick, so we'll see...

 

Does the threaded oil filter drain hose work on the plastic filter housing, or only on the metal version?

 

Interested about this too. I wonder ifnyou do extended 10k intervals, if the metal to metal contact would end up corroding itself together.

 

Both… same threads.

No, doesn’t happen. Plus, think about how oily the threads are. Built-in anti seize.

 

If anyone is interested in one of these metal housings I have one that I will sell cheap. I had it on my rig for one oil change and took it off. It was extremely hard to remove.

 

PM sent

 

Anyone know how important it is to swap over the taller tube that comes with the stock plastic housing? As I think everyone knows, the aluminum version of this housing comes with a shorter tube. What might go wrong if you keep using that shorter tube???

 

It is a factory part used on the Camry. Pretty sure Toyota would not use it if there was an issue.

 

I did it for one less what if.
when I took it in for the 5k toyo care, I made reference to installing the Fumoto valve and got a warranty not covered response.

 

Regarding the possibility of the metal seizing by corrosion….

Toyota might be using that as an OE part on Camry’s, but I’m curious to see if they took any measures on the engine side to protect against seizing/corrosion.

Even if they didnt, when I see how much surface area exists on the threaded area and the landing portion of the housing, it kinda freaks me out. If corrosion occurs over enough of those threads, or the landing portion (past the o-ring) and it gets stuck, the extraction process could get ugly.

A typical seized bolt no matter how big, has less surface area on the thread. There’s more chance of it being loosened with an impact, and if it snaps, you can repair by redrill and retap .

On the other hand, if this seized due to corrosion, it would probably be comparable to trying to break loose a huge stuck bolt on a huge mining dump truck…in terms of surface area fusing the metals together. Except they use steel. This is basically a huge hollow aluminum bolt that is going into a machined area of the engine, also aluminum.

I know I’m overthinking it lol. And it will probably be fine as long as you change the oil out frequently.

Unless you take it to a dealer for an oil change. If they “decide” to skip changing the filters once, that means it’s going to be on there for 20,000 miles. The lord help ya if they skip it twice.

Im not sure that a metal filter housing provides any benefit at all. The plastic one is probably a safer bet considering the amount of thread involved, and considering that the threaded/machined area in the engine block, may actually be the block itself, not a replaceable part (if worse comes to worst).

 

I wouldn't completely discount the corrosion / seizing concern, even though this housing is used on many other Toyota models, but the metal version clearly has the benefit of being much less fragile. It's apparent from user experience that it's too easy to break the tabs on the plastic version, and that can cause catastrophic failure -- as happened to me per my above post from yesterday.

If I was worried about any issues with the metal version, and so wanted to stay with the stock plastic one, I'd just be sure to use a good wrench that does not touch those tabs -- one that just snugly grips the fluted portion of the housing. Just like the Motivx wrench many here have gotten.

 

My 10 year old Sequoia with nearly 200k miles still has the plastic oil filter housing and so far it’s not been a problem. And that’s with the dealership doing the oil changes every 5k.

As far as the corrosion concern, it may be depend on where your located, for example, rust belt vs the desert.

If you’re using the right filter wrench, breaking those tabs should be a none issue.

 

I think those tabs are on the housing specifically to help spread torque across as much of the housing as possible in order to prevent overstressing it in any one area.

Im curious, did your filter wrench only grab the housing at the tabs? Usually these housing filters wrenches should be making contact at the bottom like a traditional filter wrench, in addition to the tabs.

As much as I dont like the inconvenience of these element filters, the appropriate wrench will make absolute better contact on the plastic housing, than the simple socket type wrenches for ever could on can filters. I’ve rounded out more than a few can filters over the years because they only grabbed at the bottom. Couple of skinned knuckles too, when they slip off.

 

I used a wrench designed for this housing, being the correct 64 mm, 14 flutes and having slots to fit around the tabs. I think it was just poorly made. It had too much play in the fluted portion, not snug, which meant more pressure applied to the tabs.

I’m confident that a wrench that fits the flutes snugly, like the Motivx, will have zero problems. A sloppy wrench would also prob work on the metal housing since so much less chance of breaking the tabs.

I am still wondering about the shorter center tube that comes with the metal version. Is it really a problem to use that? The stock tube doesn’t reach all the way to the top of the filter anyway, so what’s an inch shorter gonna do?

 

There are some wise ass comments to be made here, but I will refrain.

 

I'm sure you already have the Fumoto valve, seeing how this question is a month old, but we had the long version on our 4Runner, and when installing it I took a piece of cardboard folded and checked the clearance, I installed the long nipple and ordered a short one to put on for the next oil change. The short one will help you sleep better, the long one was really close like was mentioned a month ago. We switched to the short though.. Just thought I'd let you know.

 

Thanks for that. I actually haven’t gotten one yet, as I’m still a ways away from the first oil change.

Are you saying that the dealership said installing a Fumoto valve will void your warranty?

 

I didn't get into a discussion with them, when I said I had already done an oil change as I installed the valve, I was told something about not being covered under warranty. I didn't ask question, I was more frustrated that I had already told them I changed the oil and rotated the tires when I made the appointment, and then I was told I was wasting my time bringing it in.
I figure if it dumps oil everywhere, then they can deny me, but other than that, they have no grounds to deny anything.

 

Dont give them a reason to deny it. If you ever need to take it in for warrantee, honestly, I’d recommend putting the stock drain plug back in for that appt. If they can, in any way, relate the problem to that valve, they will.

It doesnt have to be proven for them to say no. Basically, you’ll be legally correct, but they’ll put the ball in your court and leave it to you to escalate it. Returning everything to stock if you ever have a potentially large warranty claim will be less trouble.

 

Just swap the center tube (and it’s spring) from the plastic one. It’s just held in place with metal tabs that can be bent a little to allow removal/replacement as you push down and twist. And get the Toyota housing, not an aftermarket one.