Bilstein 6112/5160 install report

All,

I installed a lift kit on my '21 last weekend and wanted to share some pics and lessons learned from my experience. I did this job in my driveway with my 9yo son.

Goals

• constructive time in the workshop
• quality time with son
• make our truck cooler
• more clearance (we actually go offroad semi-regularly)

Considerations

• Wanted a 2"F and 1"R lift
• Ironman was taller than I wanted
• I don't believe in spacer lifts
• Didn't want mix-n-match lift needing a lot of research and trial & error
• Ideal budget was $2K but was willing to spend a little more

Usage

• Daily driver for my family (primarily wife and kids, me on the weekend)
• Tow our camper all over CA, UT, OR, AZ regularly for wilderness camping
• Spend lots of time in remote deserts on rugged roads such as Mojave
• Fun time a OHV areas with kids (I let them drive!)

Parts

• Decided on Bilstein 6112 front, 5160 with remote reservoir for rear
• Stock weight Bilstein springs as we have no winches, spare mounts, bull bars, etc
• Note: I installed airbags in rear for towing and kept them in place with this upgrade
• I bought low to mid quality set of spring compressors from AMZ. Solid construction. Cleared the shock bodies on coilover assembly. Smooth and safe operation.

Observations

• Used Shock Surplus. No BS. Good price. Quick ship. First experience with them.
  
• Rear shock kit include very nice vehicle-specific mounting gear for the reservoirs that fit into existing threaded bosses on the frame. Nice aluminum mounting block rather than the DIY looking metal band clamp I've seen on many installs.
• All materials in kit look to be high quality as evidenced by quality fasteners, good paint/powder, thickness of bracketry, materials.
• Bilstein installation instructions are typically german (e.g. fifteen steps to open a doorknob that makes it seem more complicated than it is) but at least very thorough with helpful picture and torque specs.
• Spring compression does not have to be as dangerous and scars as the internet makes it out to be. Yes, you are putting a lot of energy into the spring. Good practice and choices such as safe location, staying out of force vector, checking fit as you go, and compressing evenly and incrementally make it a simple and safe job.

Tips

• Use real, heavy, trustworthy jack stands. Our trucks are heavy. Our lives are valuable.
• I disconnected the sway bar completely to get it out of the way. This is particularly important for the front coilover removal and installation. I did damage a swaybar link boot which I ordered a replacement for. Next time I'll just remove swaybar altogether.
• Getting the coilover removed and reinstalled in the the front can be a fiddly operation with little clearance between the steering link and the LCA. In retrospect I could have save a LOT of time by disconnecting the steering links.
• Note that the coilover top caps (if you're using existing) have indentations already from the coil. Align the new spring when assembling with this indentation. I marked mine to index properly when assembling (see pic).
• Note that Bilstein suggests two different height clip positions for driver and passenger side. I found the suggestion spot-on and my truck is dead level.
• It's easy to make mistakes during assembly sometimes. I marked the desired clip positions with parts pen before installing the clips. Not necessary, but I like to make things as error free as possible.
• I used flexible (rubber & copper) tie straps to hold the spindle in place while replacing the coilover. You can set them to right position and change positions easily as needed. Much easier than having a bouncing bungee or rubber strap. Use an old piece of Romex if you have some laying around. Handy stuff.
• If you get greasy fingerprints all over your brake disks while working, clean them up with brake cleaner when you're done before the wheels go back on. Your brake pads will thank you.
• Remember not to tighten rubber bushing mount points (e.g. - lower shock mounts) until the vehicle is sitting on its own weight. Otherwise you will have short bushing life.
• I'm a safety wire and marking pen guy (from years of NYC motorcycle riding and some racing). I actually do visual checks. Marking pen on fasteners lets you quickly confirm that nothing has loosened up or moved since last check.

Outcome

• Job took about 7 hours over a two day period (after work for two evenings)
• Truck sits nice and level
• Significant reduction in brake dive!!!!!!!
• Noticeable increase in firmness on road and less body roll
• Have not yet tested off-road
• Took to alignment shop when done and was able to get in spec on toe and camber, somewhat out of spec (+2.5deg where aiming for +3.0) on castor as I didn't use new UCAs. Truck drives fine IMO. If becomes a problem later, will do UCAs.

Feel free to ask questions if you have them. Will share what I know or learned and will not make up answers where I don't.

Pictures below.

Jason

Skip the details, let me the finished result:


Jacked safely and ready to work:


Front coilovers pulled and spindle secured:


Coilover built with lift clips in correct position.


Coilover built with top cap in place. Note index of spring end with prior indentation in cap.


Coilover installed and torqued (top):


Coilover installed and NOT torqued (bottom). Note: had already marked fastener. Remarked after final torque at job end.


Installed height DF (wheel well to ground on 265/70 C load KO2s):


Installed height PF (wheel well to ground on 265/70 C load KO2s):


Installed height DR (wheel well to ground on 265/70 C load KO2s):


Installed height PR (wheel well to ground on 265/70 C load KO2s):


Before lift and KO2s (old pic):

 

Excellent write up Jason,

I was considering the 6112/5160 setup too but decided to hold off for now. I/we will be looking forward to an off road report later.

When I was researching those shocks I came upon a site that offered machined aluminum mounts that attach the 5160 remote reservoirs to the shock body. They looked nice but were pricey.

 

The new 5160s come with a nice mount for the resivor much better than the crappy ones that used to come with them

 

Nice! I have 5100 now and was debating Dobs, OME and 6112.

Right now, I am leaning towards 6112 in the future.

 

It is nice! I'm a stickler for mounting bracketry, cable/line routing, nice fasteners and such from motorcycle building. This kit measures up.

Before I realized it included the nice mounts I ordered the other mounts they sell. Was happy to return them.

Jason

 

I ordered and returned the same brackets not knowing they upgraded the bracket since I last had 5160s